World Ramblers - for Independent travellers

With five national parks and six national forests to its name, there’s no wonder Utah offers an unforgettable experience.  One of those national parks is Zion, home to imposing mountains, a picturesque desert landscape and an abundance of red rock formations.  It was to become home for two nights as a stopover before continuing my journey east.

Zion National Park

The park, which may strike you at first as a parched desert wasteland is no such thing.  To the north, rain-waters from the 11,000ft Colorado plateau speed their way downhill towards an area called the Grand Staircase. The staircase comprises of Bryce Canyon at the top followed by Zion and finishing with the Grand Canyon at the base.  Many years before the present day landscape, streams, oceans, deserts and even volcanoes left behind thousands of feet of mud, sand, lime and ash.  Over the years the immense pressures converted the lower layers to stone.  Underground energy then forced the layers upwards to form the plateau. Over time the effects of rain eroded the layers, until tiny cracks became the colossal canyons of Zion National Park.

Zion’s elevation reaches from 3,600 to 8,700 feet creating a rich biodiversity within rim, canyon and river ecosystems.  Along with many other species of animals and plants In the park can be found peregrine falcons, mountain lions, canyon tree frogs, hummingbirds, elk, mule deer, cottonwood and ash trees, marmots, rare black bear, several species of snake and the elusive Zion snail which can only be found here.

South Campground

The South campground works on a first come first served basis and although suggestions are it can fill up early in the day; this didn’t seem to be the case during my stay.  The campground is conveniently located just inside the park, next to a courtesy shuttle bus station. At $16 per site each night, it makes for an affordable way to stay in a beautiful National Park. The sites are very spacious and with a tent rather than an RV, there’s room to spare. The campground offers limited amenities of restrooms, picnic tables, fire grates, RV dump stations and drinking water. If you’re staying in a tent, be prepared to go without a shower unless you’re willing to jump in the frigid Virgin River to freshen up after a day of hiking.

Entrance Fees - Click here to view

Zion Canyon Shuttle

With only one and a half days to spend in the park, we weren’t going to have time to hike all the main trails listed on the free trail map. Instead we opted to pursue just a few of them with the knowledge we’d return someday to do the rest.

The easiest and most accessible way to reach many of the park trailheads is to ride the Zion Canyon Shuttle which operates frequently throughout the day. The narrated round trip will take approximately ninety minutes and offers magnificent views of the surrounding terrain through the large windows and the open sunroof sections. Get on or off at any of the stops, hike and then jump back on the bus to take you to the next stop of your choice. The best part, the shuttle is free and the last one runs at 10:00pm.

Riverside Walk

This was my first hike or really what I would call a relaxing walk. This is certainly not strenuous as demonstrated by its family oriented popularity and ease of access for all ages. The hike follows the Virgin River, ending at the rivers edge and the launching off point for the narrows hike. The hike is listed as an easy 2 miles with an elevation gain of fifty-seven feet. To walk to the end and back should take approximately 1.5hrs although this would be at a very relaxed pace in my opinion.  There’s plenty of shade amongst the trees and its worth bringing footwear you can use in the water for some wading fun. I spotted a rattle snake right next to the trail so be careful.Shuttle stop: Temple of Sinawava

Weeping Rock Trail

The second hike of the afternoon and again this one is easy. The path is a little steep, but for most people it will do no more than raise your heartbeat a little.  At the end of the short .5 mile path you’ll discover the dripping spring water continually dripping overhead. It offers a nice opportunity to cool off in the shade from the heat.Shuttle stop:  Weeping Rock

Watchman Trail

Getting up early from a nights sleep in a tent is always easy, so we opted to get out on this hike first thing in the morning. It was worth it! The hike starts near the Zion Canyon Visitor center, crosses the road and then snakes its way up and around the mountain.   Gorgeous views of lower Zion Canyon and West Temple can be found from the top. It can get hot on this particular hike with little shade so do this one early and bring sun protection.

The hike is a moderate 2.7 miles with an elevation gain of 368 feet. It will take roughly 2 hours round trip  depending on how long you plan to enjoy the view.  Falcons enjoy soaring on the thermals here and several species of flowers and cacti grow on the steep rocky slopes. Its quite a humbling experience to sit atop a mountain with the wind gently whispering, the only sound to break the silence amongst the vastness of the area.  The original native American settlers in the area of Zion must have worshipped and adored this place.

Emerald pools

The second hike of the day involved a series of three emerald pools which can be completed as a roundtrip hike. I found them to be well worth the time and effort with beautiful views of the surrounding sheer cliff faces and colored rock formations. The pools are a popular hike with many people although this does not detract from the enjoyment.Shuttle stop: Zion Lodge

Lower Emerald Pool Trail - Click here to open

Middle Emerald Pool Trail - Click here to open

Upper Emerald Pool Trail - Click here to open

Court of the Patriarchs

A very short walk of 100 yards from the roadside will bring you to a viewing area where you can take photos of the Sentinel and the Three Patriarchs formations.

The path here is steep, but shouldn’t pose any problems to anyone.

This spot will perhaps only take up about fifteen to twenty minutes in total, but it’s still worth getting off the bus for. Remember the buses are frequent so it won’t hurt to take a look.

Pa’rus Trail

This trail can be picked up near the Court of the Patriarchs and leads back to the south Campground. It’s an easy paved road which crosses the river several times and is a nice peaceful trail suitable for families, bikes  and is the only dog trail in the park. The hike is 1.7 miles from Canyon Junction to the campground and served as our last trail of the day.

Cooling off

Returning back to the campground without being able to shower was a shame, but after jumping into the Virgin River we quickly cooled off and felt refreshed. The waters here are very cold but there’s a soothing relaxing feeling that washes over you as you absorb the beauty of your surroundings and recount the days hiking.

Zion resources

There are a number of websites offering in depth details about Zion.  Here are a couple you might like to check out.

http://www.zionnational-park.com/
http://gocalifornia.about.com/library/weekly/aaziona.htm

Alternatively you might want to consider ZionQuest, a downloadable application for use with the Iphone or Itouch.  Watch the video below for more information.

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Being raised in England and then moving to the USA presented me with only a few opportunities to haggle, negotiate, barter, bargain or whatever else you’d care to call it.  Apart from car salesmen, credit card companies or cell phone firms as examples, most prices are set.  This is very different from many other countries where haggling is common. You’ll never find a price on a product in Turkey and those that are listed on products in India have more often than not been scratched out.  It’s important to take your best haggling act with you otherwise you’re certain to be ripped off every time. Vendors often over inflate their prices as they expect people to haggle. If you don’t even try to negotiate you will not receive a fair price.

What is a fair price

It can be difficult to know what you should pay for an item so a little research is often a good idea. This can involve simply shopping around or asking other travelers the prices they paid for items and then trying to beat it.

There are times when it feels as though prices have been multiplied by pi (3.14159265358979323846) so I started calling negotiations the “pi factor”, but this should probably not be followed too often as each potential sale is unique.

After travelling for a while it is easy to become “cheap”, but try to remember that different countries have different economies and therefore the prices, say in India, won’t be the same in Thailand. It will take a little time after arriving in a country before you can really learn the fair prices and in my experience the prices in guidebooks are always outdated.

Don’t lose face

Travelling round the world has exposed me to many different types of friendly and not so friendly salesmen all with a different approach. During these encounters the one thing that remained constant throughout was to not let the other person lose face. Getting angry, becoming annoyed or being disrespectful by offering an absurdly low price for an item is not the way to negotiate a good price.

Learning a little of the local language or smiling and having a sense of humor will often reward you with a much nicer experience and a better price. Bear in mind the t-shirt in Bangkok offered to you for $1.50 that you want for $1 is a battle a westerner doesn’t really need to have whereas to the local selling the t-shirt the price will make a much bigger difference.

I’ve been offered cups of tea in Turkey and sweets and a place to sit down in India, and all while being introduced intimately to every product in the rug shop or textile centre. All these actions are designed to relax you and ultimately encourage you to part with your money more easily. Don’t however feel an obligation to buy, just because you drank some good Turkish tea, but also don’t abuse the good nature of others by using the local rug store as your free coffee shop.

Sealing the deal

Stand your ground with salesmen no matter how pushy they might become. I have never and will never cave in to a pushy salesman, but I will quite happily take my business elsewhere. There are lots of opportunities when you travel so don’t be afraid to simply say “no thanks” and head for the door.  With that being said it can actually result in being offered the price you were looking to pay, in which case staying would be worth your time!

One tactic you might want to employ is to ask the price of an item and when you hear the response which is undoubtedly more than you desire to pay, offer a price set lower than you are willing to pay, giving you room for negotiation. At this point the seller may lower their selling price a little, after which you actually lower your price from your original offer. Do this a few times and the seller will realize their price won’t be met and will usually bring the price down to a more reasonable range.

For more tips on how and why to haggle, let the Monty Python team offer their help with the video below.

Do you have any interesting stories about haggling while travelling? If so then leave a comment in the section below.

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Plan any trip to a tropical location and the mosquitoes will find you! These pesky insects have enjoyed a fruitful existence for more than thirty million years.  During this time they’ve become experts at seeking out a tasty free meal, leaving behind an itchy feeling from their saliva and an all too familiar red swelling.

Mosquitoes are known around the world and thankfully in many countries the fear of disease has been irradiated.  This is not the case in several other parts of the world however and in Asia, Malaria and Dengue fever still prevails.

When deciding on which guesthouse to call home for a few nights I make sure the room has a decent mosquito net before handing over cash as a night in a room at the mercy of mosquitoes is one you’ll be sure to remember for days or even weeks after!

During the course of my trips I use an insect repellant spray that contains Deet and wear long trousers and long sleeved tops at night to reduce my chances of being bitten.  I try to be especially careful to cover my ankles and lower legs (a popular place for a snack!).  In Rajasthan India where Malaria is quite common I decided to take anti-malarial tablets, for five weeks.  These didn’t give me any real side affects apart from some strange dreams and an odd headache or two!

The video below, produced by Disney is perhaps a little dated with some of it’s views (spot them), but it’s a great bit of Disney entertainment all the same. Check it out for some advice on dealing with the winged blood suckers.

For more in depth information on Mosquitoes (little fly), how they breed, bite, what diseases they carry and what you can do to control them, take a read of the article at the link below.

How Mosquitoes Work
 

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There are often times on a multi country trip when checking the latest exchange rates is needed.  It’s easy to start assuming those currency exchange holes in the wall are not offering the most reasonable rate.

For peace of mind and a little assurance of what the real deal is, its worth checking the Xe Currency Converter tool with its listing of the top 85 currencies.

Click the Xe image below for access to the converter

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Sooner or later if you enjoy an active life, you’re sure to come across a leech or two.  Traveling for a year only increased my chances, and so it was while hiking in the wet rainforests of Malaysia my first rendezvous with the annoying and mighty hungry bloodsuckers occurred!

Get caught out on the wrong trail and you’ll be feasted upon faster than you can yell “get me outta here the leeches are coming!”

Leeches are related to earthworms and have common traits.  You can find leeches or rather leeches can find you in shallow lakes, ponds and marshy areas. The majority of leeches live in water although there are land based variants that survive quite happily in moist humid regions of the world.

Whilst not normally deadly there was a recorded account in 1799 of soldiers of Napoleon drinking contaminated water.  As a result many of the soldiers suffered problems when the leeches attached themselves to the inside of their mouths, noses and throats.  As the leeches swelled from their blood lust gorging, many soldiers died from suffocation from blocked air passages. - Adapted from: “Those Amazing Leeches” by Cheryl M. Halton (Dillon Press, Inc.-1989)

Leeches are parasites, feeding off another host with no benefit in return and this is not limited to humans as they are more than happy to feed on frogs, fish and snails.  Leeches like to crawl around until they find a tender and warm place to feed.  Often ankles are a likely place to find leeches due to them being close to the ground and the first place they are able to bite on flesh.  A good thing to remember is that leeches are able to bite through loose weave sock material commonly worn.

Leeches wait in low lying areas for warm blooded creatures to get close and then they attach themselves and begin to gorge. Leeches aren’t poisonous and do not carry disease, not that this information makes the leech wearer any more comfortable.  Often the initial bite is not felt as leeches inject an anesthetic as well as an anti-coagulant to keep the blood flowing. This will usually mean you’ll bleed for several minutes after the blood sucker is gone.

For more information on leeches, watch the video below

What to do if you find a bloodsucker attached

As hard as it might seem to some of you, DON’T PANIC!  After all the leech’s only crime is stealing a little of your blood with no intention of repaying you. Yes they do look pretty revolting and they can make a bloody mess, but you’ll be ok, ok!

There are several tried and tested methods for removal of leeches, some of which are outlined below in the video

There are cases where leech bites can cause itchy irritation to drive you crazy, or if their mouth parts are left behind when pulled off it could cause an infection.  In order to deter the bloodsuckers in the first place you might want to either invest in some leech socks or attempt to make some to keep the cost down. They can be made with tightly woven and stitched cotton or some alternative tight weave material.  The sock needs to be long enough to stop just short of the knee and then held up with a strap.  This will help prevent leeches getting down inside the sock.  It’s probably also wise to spray some deet type insect repellent on the sock near the ankle.  Remember that not all leeches approach from below, there’s also the risk of being dropped on from above so watch out!

If you’ve had a leech encounter, please share it with our readers in the comments section below.
 

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Unless you are traveling with a detailed itinerary printed up for your reference on day to day activities, the first sight of Tokyo is daunting. Knowing where to begin was the hardest part, so essentially I begin in the center and worked my way out from there using a city guidebook for reference.

Tokyo is difficult to visit on a budget, but with a little planning it can be done at about $40 a day. Japan is more on par with other European nations in cost, but for the cost a whole wealth of culture, tasty food and colossal sights are there for the taking.

Accommodation factors

The first task before arriving is arranging accommodation. Considering the sheer size of Tokyo, I would recommend bedding down in a place that is nearby central Tokyo, and keeping some of that yen in your pocket instead of spent on trains.

A second, but equally important factor in deciding where to stay is the neighborhood. Tokyo is defiantly a safe city but why spend your time in some ancient ghetto. Some guide books have suggested Sanya as a good neighborhood for budget travelers. While the rates may be cheap, it’s worth considering the reasons why. It’s a way out of the center and there has been a continuous cycle of destitution and poverty, making it a undesirable neighborhood to settle.

Couch Surfing  is a great option. After starting a profile you can contact different hosts for a couch from central to greater Tokyo and around the world. I’ve heard great stories from people who have couch surfed across Europe and Asia. As an alternative I was recommended Yadoya Guesthouse  in Central Tokyo by a fellow couch surfer when I couldn’t get a couch in time. 

This was a great option because the guesthouse I stayed in was only two stops from Shinjuku, Tokyo’s main station. If you know where you’re going, it’s only a 35 minute walk from the center of Tokyo and a few minutes on foot to Nakano. Rates depend on room and length of stay. The guesthouse was like no other I’ve ever stayed in, as it was really a house you share with other travelers while the guesthouse office was in a separate location. Clean up after yourself, cook in the kitchen, wash your own clothes and sleep in a cozy room, it was a house I shared with some great roommates. Nakano is a great neighborhood, and gets very quiet once away from the main center. 

Sightseeing

Once in the city the best part of being there is experiencing it. Tokyo offers an abundance of sights and activities, not to mention top notch shopping. Research a little further, low and behold some of the best sights to visit are free!

Start out with a visit to the Metropolitan Government Offices and take in all that Tokyo has to offer with an ever expanding view from the 45th floor.

After such heights, come back down to ground level in the express lift and then ramble through Shinjuku to do a little window shopping, trust me its hours of fun here. See Shibuya Crossing when a flood of human traffic releases every few minutes. Visit the Sony building for hands on viewing of the latest technology, see various shrines and statues such as popular Hachiko, wander through Harajuku, walk down Takeshita-dori and buy some socks, don’t miss Yoyogi Park and see the impressive Meiji-jingu shrine.

Stroll through the scenic Imperial Palace East Garden for a visual delight. Leave time to get lost in the back streets of Golden Gai after sundown, or Love Hotel Hill during lunch time for a sneak peak into Tokyo’s seedy side. These are all sights and things worth your time while in Tokyo and they are all free, though socks will cost extra.

Helpful Tips

If you’re not from Tokyo you will have to do the research ahead of your visit. A city guide is a practical tool while a tourist friendly city map complete with a transport route map is essential.

Transport

Each time you ride on trains and subways fares can sometimes be a mystery, so make it easy by purchasing a Pasmo or Suica card. The card requires a 500 yen refundable deposit and works for JR trains and the subway by deducting the cost when exiting. Thus making your navigation through Tokyo hassle free, but remember to use all the funds before returning the card as only the deposit is refundable. Luckily small amounts left on the card can be transferred to paper tickets at vending machines. 

Download the Tokyo Subway map here as a PDF file

Money

You’re not going to get very far in Tokyo without a stash of yen in your wallet. Credit cards are not widely accepted in Japan, so it’s wise to arrive with a supply of currency. If arriving at Narita airport the good news is there are lots of ATM’s in the arrival terminal to get you started, many of them accept international cards. To throw a spanner in the works, many ATMS dotted throughout the city do not accept international cards, so a good bit of advice, when you find one, stock up on yen! Lookout for CitiBank cash points, there’s 10 scattered about Tokyo including one very convenient location in Shibuya.

Food

Late night sushi is a steal as box sets sell at a fraction of the original cost. Lunch sets at restaurants are good deals from sushi to simple Japanese meals including water, tea and soup. Grocery stores and mini marts sell noori wraps and healthy snacks when you’re out and about.

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Where would we be in this day and age without our flexible friends!

Just by carrying a credit card or debit card while traveling gives us a sense of security, a sense that everything is going to be ok, after all that’s why you’ve got them with you right!

Well think again, as carrying the wrong card in certain countries or not notifying your bank/credit card issuer before setting off on a journey of a lifetime may result in mild panic or desperate searching in an unfamiliar location.

I recall flying from Turkey to Dubai as a layover and then onto Kathmandu, Nepal within 36hrs. It was only when we were in the Thamel area trying to find a Mastercard ATM that the problems started.  Visa signs were visible from every ATM, but no matter how many ATM’s we tried, none would accept our MasterCard.  Finally after searching for a very long and tiring time we found one, tucked between two shops in a small crevice of a location that was easy to miss! With less than the equivalent of $10 left in cash we were jubilant, unfortunately this didn’t last long as our card was rejected with a less than informative error message. Our only hope remained in calling the bank to figure out why this was happening.  With only a few dollars left after paying for an internet café and Skype to call the bank, we established the card had a fraud alert because we’d used it in several countries within a short space of time. Thankfully it only took a few minutes to resolve the issue; otherwise we would have run out of money! At the same time we ensured the flag was set on our account to notify the bank we’re out of the country traveling.  Even though we were told the flag can only be set for a period of thirty days, we never encountered the same problem again.

It may seem strange to arrive in a country with a small amount of local currency, but we figured out the best exchange rates are obtained from ATM’s, not from currency exchanges that litter tourist towns. Depending on the country, we often wait until arrival before obtaining any local currency for this very reason.

Mastercard

Washington Mutual, who I used to bank with, issued its customers with a MasterCard, a distinct disadvantage when traveling. Merely carrying a MasterCard is in itself an unwise decision, for where there’s Visa there is often no MasterCard, but where there is MasterCard there is always Visa.  There have been several times during my round the world trip when finding an ATM became a seriously laborious task.  While other people were gettig settled into their guesthouses we continued to pace the streets in search of a suitable ATM.  I will never again travel with MasterCard or at least I would never again only travel with a MasterCard without the backup of a Visa card! It pleases me to learn that Chase, who’ve taken over Washington Mutual have moved to Visa.

ATM Hunter

The people over at Mastercard, perhaps aware their ATM’s are often rare and hard to find have come up with an Iphone/Itouch application that might help find the elusive money giver. They’ve called it ATM Hunter and it’s labeled as making it fast and easy to locate the nearest ATM to your current position with the use of the devices location aware capabilities.

To grab a copy of the free ATM Hunter from Apple’s application store, click the image.

• Find ATM’s based on your current location
• Provides driving directions and a map
• Enables you to share info with others via SMS
• Finds ATM based on any address or airport location

Click here to view the Netbanker review of ATM Hunter

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Visa

Visa on the other hand doesn’t really need to offer a free application to inform customers where to find their ATM’s as they are generously daubed throughout the land. The only time it wasn’t possible to get money out of a machine was when the bank didn’t handle international customers. This also applied to Mastercard ATM’s at banks of this kind.

The following offers information on finding a Visa ATM.

Click here for the mobile version 

Click here for the full site version

Even when armed with a Visa card or a Visa card and MasterCard its wise to research the area you plan to travel.  There are places in Laos for instance that don’t have many ATM’s at all.  In these times you really need to carry more cash with you and not rely on there being anywhere to get access to cash.

In places like Cambodia it’s a good idea to carry US traveler’s checks as dollars are widely used, making it feel sometimes like the dollar is the national currency. Even ATM machines give you money in dollars not riel.

The best advice to give would really be the following:

1. Maximize your options for obtaining money from multiple sources while traveling.
2. Ensure you have internet banking set up before leaving home.
3. Notify your bank you will be out of the county.
4. Try to avoid costly exchange rate fluctuations by getting money from an ATM.
5. Don’t leave home without Visa.

Do you have a travel money nightmare to share or additional tip for dealing with money abroad? Share them with our readers in the comments section below.

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There have been many times while out camping or on an extended trip when the weight and bulk of carrying plates, cups and a bowl have crossed my mind.  All that can be a thing of the past with the Orikaso range of products.

 What is an Orikaso

Made from a single flat piece of polyprolene, Orikaso products are extremely light, durable and compact, only requiring simple origami steps in order to put them to use.

My first encounter with Orikaso came from a couple cycling the world on bicycles.  They knew the importance of packing light and maximising the useage of the space in their bags.  After a quick lesson it was easy to put together the mugs and bowls and even easier to clean them after use.  The next time I travel there’s no question about it, I’ll be eating or drinking out of an Orikaso.

Check out the video below to see how easy it is.

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One thing that’s really enjoyable when traveling are festivals and the Ome Taisai Festival in Japan is no exception.  Based on the history of old Edo this relatively small cultural festival is little known to foreigners, but enjoyed by hordes of Japanese every year in early May. Located on the outskirts of Tokyo in Ome, this peaceful rural town in the Kanto region becomes awash with color, sound and smells to entice the senses.

Getting there - Click for details

Use the trains to get to the festival. Jump on the Jr Ome line and get off at Ome station. You can’t miss it from there.

After you finally manage to get out of the overcrowded station full of eager festival goers you step into an area full of food stalls serving an array of culinary delights.  Your hunger, if you brought it with you, will quickly vanish as the temptation to try the food overwhelms you.

 Before you reach into your pocket to pull out money, make sure you visit the puppets who’ll give you a nibble for luck.

This worked faster than we could have imagined as five minutes after this photo was taken Megan rolled the dice at a chocolate covered banana stall and won a banana. It was tempting to go back for another nibble from the puppets, but perhaps that would be pushing our luck!

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If you want to see the puppets in action, check out the video below.

There are plenty of stalls to keep children occupied from fishing out a plastic fish to choosing a live one to take home.

Once tired from wandering around the stalls, there’s a nice temple a mere stones throw from the main street. Just climb the steps that lead to the courtyard area and enjoy the tranquility.

On each day of the festival, large ornate floats complete with musicians and dancers make their way slowly down the main street, stopping at every shrine along the way.  The floats are pulled by men and women dressed in traditional garb, referred to as Happi’s. Each person wearing Happi’s is proud to have their home town written on back in Japanese, of course.

Before the floats started their procession we found a good vantage point and took refuge with a cool, refreshing can of Kirin beer. It became clear that we weren’t the only ones to crack open a can or two as several old Japanese men came sauntering along the road, their cheeks and noses blushed from some sort of intoxicating liquor.  With so many smiling faces and friendly waves it was only a matter of time before we made friends.

Several Japanese people invited us across the street to their makeshift bar of beer crates and even with their limited understanding of English we were all able to introduce ourselves and share in a few glasses of sake!  Before we realized the time, the festival had drawn to a close, the streets were deserted and we were still laughing and having a good time with the locals.  The hospitality didn’t end here; we were then invited to join them all at a local Japanese bar for some sushi and Karaoke! I’m really opposed to the concept of Karaoke, which makes me cringe at the very thought, but after a few glasses of sake I was persuaded! I can only apologize to the likes of Radiohead and The Beatles for a less than satisfactory rendition of their songs.

By the time we left the bar we were tipsy from the sake and merry with the memory of our cultural experience shared with some of the most hospitable people, the Japanese.

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It’s no secret that Tokyo is a large sprawling city. Spread like a wave across the valley basin between the Pacific Ocean and a crest of scenic mountain peaks. Of those peaks it was Mt Fuji that was my favored attraction.

A visit to Tokyo just wouldn’t seem complete without spending a little quality time with this mountain. Famous all over the world for its esthetically pleasing and near perfect conical shape, the sacred volcanic mountain hasn’t erupted for over 300 years, making it a popular climb from July through August. Other times of the year have proved too dangerous because of landslides and weather factors, but of course that doesn’t stop everyone. As a visitor in May, climbing Fuji would be foolish, so I settled for a scenic day trip out of Tokyo to get a closer look.

Every time I read about different locations to view Fuji the same words were used, “on a clear day Mt. Fuji can be seen.” I looked up the weather report and made travel arrangements according to the forecast. However, even with plenty of sunshine, moisture is drawn to Japan’s highest mountain peak only unveiling all of Mt. Fuji on special occasions. This is the part of travel you just have to take in your stride.

Hakone Free Pass

From Shinjuku station in Tokyo, I purchased the “Hakone Free Pass” from the ticket vending machine located right outside the entrance to the Odakyu Line. A two-day pass costs about $50 and will get you out to Hakone from Shinjuku Station in central Tokyo and back. The round trip ticket includes bus transportation once in the Hakone area, train, cable car, ropeway and a boat cruise. All these methods of transport combine to make a fun day out of the city exploring some of Japan’s most scenic sights at a highly discounted rate. Holders of the free pass also get special discounts and entrances to nearby attractions.

Practicalities
 
As this was a day trip, to get the most out of the day I boarded the 7.30 train to Hakone Yumoto. There are plenty of free seating trains bound for Odawara/Hakone Yumoto that are included in the Hakone Free pass, but to make it an extra special day Rich and I paid the additional $8 per person fee to reserve a seat on the Romance Car. This train is very comfortable with seats facing forward, verses the unreserved train with seats facing inward. The other bonus that encouraged us to book this train was the fact it takes 45 mins less to get to our destination. To keep the cost of the day trip down we opted to take the unreserved train back to Tokyo (which is included in the pass), which also makes the experience hassle free. With no specific train to catch on return we could arrive at the station at our leisure, or at least before the last departure which is about 10PM.

I obtained the train timetable and booked my Romance Car seat reservations with the help of the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center near the west exit in Shinjuku Station. They were able to provide me with general information and brochures in English, which made the trip easier to navigate.

Visiting Hakone

On arrival to Hakone Yumoto using my brochure, which was thankfully detailed in English and Japanese, I merely pointed at my destination when I was approached by a tourist friendly man dressed in a city transport uniform and white gloves. With a “hai,” which means yes and is spoken from the gut, we were directed to our line in waiting for the bus! Yes, that’s right there is a level of service before getting on the public bus. Once on the bus a nod from the driver assured us he had seen our Hakone pass.

We departed once everyone had taken a seat and steamed through a narrow winding road. Evergreens hugged the bends and beyond boasting vibrant greens while other trees and shrubs exploded in all their beauty, glossy green, red and purple, surrounded by green and yellow textured bamboo spearing the sky hillside after hillside. Unfortunately we had missed the cherry blossoms which fill the air with sweet scents and explode in unfathomable beauty early in April, surely a sight to be seen if ever possible.

We decided to follow the “Round-trip Hakone Recommended Course” from the brochure I was given which took us to our first sight, Lake Ashi. A small town surrounds the deep blue waters that have only been present for 3,000 years according to scientists.

From the bus stop followed the main road for a few minutes before the veering slightly to the left along the Ancient Cedar Walk. It’s an amble really, through a wide path line with tall healthy cedars. The path brings you to the road again just across from Onshi Hakone Park. This park is a great place to get your first view of Mt. Fuji. It’s free to wonder and is beautifully landscaped on a ridge above Lake Ashi. Once at the superb viewing platform it was hard to be disappointed, Mt. Fuji was tucked behind some cloud and haze, but this was Japan, this was Lake Ashi and this was mother nature flourishing.  My hope was that the cloud would burn off as there was so much more to see during the course of the day. But the cloud stuck.

Rope course

Across the lake we sailed on the pirate ship, which is included in the Hakone Pass. The large ship complete with ornamental sails and a wide open deck for gazing towards the shore even came complete with a leering Japanese pirate taunting children and adults for photographs! Once on the other side of the lake in Togendai the round trip course through Hakone is in full swing and the Japanese have made it a breeze to follow.

We boarded the ropeway for Owakudani were we got off for lunch. Here the striking hot spring pools smoke along the mountainside where visitors can walk along to get a closer view, though you are advised to make the visit short due to the piousness gases being expelled. Most visitors sat around the picnic tables and ate bags of the Kuro Tomago, black shelled eggs that have been boiled in the springs. Apparently one egg ensures 7 years longevity, couldn’t give that a miss!

From Owakudani we continued on our way to Sounzan by ropeway. Sailing over the green hillside and waving goodbye to Mt. Fuji, I couldn’t help but flash back to my youth at theme parks flying over neatly landscaped gardens and felt that uncontrollable smile open my mouth to let a yelp out.

From Sounzan we continued further down on a cable car to Gora. There are several restaurants, and gift shops, but we darted up the hill to Gora Park (free with Hokone Pass) for a little relaxation. It’s a small plot of land, landscaped beautifully with a gourmet café, soft serve ice crème and an inviting fountain to sit by and recount the day’s events.

Before sundown we headed back to the little Hakone Tozan train that takes you on a 40 minute ride through lush forested hillside before returning to Hakone Yumoto, thus finishing our loop. On return to Tokyo the trains are frequent, and well after sundown we returned to our home with tired minds and rejuvenated souls. Definitely a day trip worth your time when in Tokyo.

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If like so many other people, you are frustrated by the limited hostels in “the guidebook” then there might be light at the end of the tunnel!

Hostel Hero have developed an application which gives the user the ability to search and book hostels and budget hotels right from the Iphone or Itouch.

Why choose your next accommodation sat in an internet cafe!

One of the great things about this application is the fact there are several features available offline allowing you to download the most inportant content to your device for use whether you’re at the beach, jungle, desert or in the mountains.

Its possible to save your favorites for use when your next at a wifi spot and ready to make a booking, alternatively use the results as a list for when you pound the streets at your next destination!

With the integration into Google Maps its easy to get directions and pictures of the hostels/hotels and with over 19,000 listings you are sure to find somewhere suitable

This free application is bound to come in handy with many of you, well those that pack an iPhone or iTouch. It might just be worth the extra weight in your pack!

Have you used the Hostel Hero application? If so leave a comment to let us know what you thought. 

Features

Download Hostel Hero

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A visit to Singapore wouldn’t be complete without a stop at the infamous Raffles hotel, just remember to wear long trousers or you won’t get past the steely eyed doorman!

Raffles hotel, founded by the four Armenian Sarkies brothers, opened in 1887 as a ten room bungalow situated by the seaside.  The hotel is no longer next to the beach due to continued land reclamation which has seen it pushed to over 500metres from the water.  Over the years many additions were added to the hotel including ballroom, new wings and bar billiards room to name a few.  The colonial style hotel is a marvel to behold although in modern times this is thanks to an extensive renovation project at a cost of S$160 million in 1989.  Every attention to detail has been considered with well manicured gardens, meticulous levels of cleanliness and polite hospitality throughout.  Its no wonder the hotel became the place to be seen and frequented by societies most influential and affluent.

There’s an interesting museum (opens at 10:00am) on the history of Raffles although a lot of it has more to do with the renovation project and if you can swing the $16 for a Singapore sling then check out the Long Bar.  The recipe is apparently not the original however! Perhaps if you ask they’ll make it the old fashioned way.

The hotel is extremely decadent and over indulgent for my tastes, but it gives a brief insight into how the other half live and the architecture of the buildings are impressive.  Raffles is worth a 45minute stop on your way to somewhere else, but unless you are backpacking on a whole different budget to me then a nights stay and even lunch are out of the question!

Check out the Raffles Hotel Singapore Website.

Take a look at the Raffles ebook, free to browse.

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A quick look through the many colorful brochures stacked along the back wall of our hostel and it’s easy to get a head start in Singapore. It’s another hot humid Friday and my last night to explore. From our base in Little India, Rich and I hopped on the metro and made it down to the Esplanade which includes a large theater combined with great restaurants and a shopping center just below the ground floor. The twin glass domes add a bit of diversity between the business and colonial district as well as the welcoming outdoor theater.

The theatres here hold free concerts quite often, but I thought myself lucky to have been in town to see “Abuse the Youth,” a funky rock band form Bangkok. One of the brochures from the hostel got me on the trail and although the music was entertaining it was the city skyline at night that really grabbed my attention. Singapore is breathtaking at night and a walk along the quay is a must. Its also an extremely safe city where lots of tourists and locals frequent the many paths along the quay well after sundown making it a pleasant stroll.

From the Esplanade, Rich and I strolled along a paved path that cuts under Nicoll Highway heading towards Esplanade Park and past Lim Bo Seng Memorial. Besides the beauty of the walk, from the array of city lights bouncing on the water, twinkling in the distance and carving the city skyline, it’s the relief from the hot sun of the day that makes this walk at night so rewarding.

Once passed the park, illuminated colonial buildings begin to emerge lending a grand view of the luxurious Fullerton Hotel. Walking along the quay other notable buildings include the Asian Civilizations Museum, Old Parliament House, Parliament House, the City Hall, and the Supreme Court. The walk also passes Raffles Landing, marked by a statue of Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles. 

Continuing towards Clarke Quay sounds of restaurant chatter drift from the numerous candle lit tables. Glasses chink, plates clank and music enthralls a number of diners sat amongst the colorful restaurant lights. The area is congested with restaurants and people out for a Friday evening. We watched brave souls across the river from us being hurtled through the sky on a giant pendulum. The world’s largest swing I think it was called. It looked safe, but definitely not for those with a weak or full stomach!

If you find yourself in Singapore then this is definitely a walk not to be missed. Its great in the day, but even better at night.

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The city of Melaka, located in the south west corner of peninsular Malaysia, is home to some of the best food in the country.  Due to the cities historical roots combining Ethnic Malay, Portuguese, Indian, British, Chinese and Dutch influences, the food is nothing short of sensational.  The effect of British food influence however is extremely hard to find and it’s unclear as to whether there is one!

Portuguese

If want to try some Malay-Portuguese food then head over to the Portuguese square where you’ll find several seaside restaurants with outside tables.  The food incorporates Malay and Indian styles with fish being an important aspect in the daily diet of the community.  Dishes include baked fish, fried whitebait with sliced shallots and the fiery el diablo curry.  Dancers used to perform on the square at weekends, now it’s a thing of the past so unless you’re really eager for Portuguese food it leaves nothing to make the walk or bus ride over to the square worthwhile.

Food Village

Situated close to the Mahkota Parade shopping mall is the Newton Culture Food Village.  A spacious undercover venue with a wide range of food choices all served up in a clean and airy environment that’s a popular haunt for locals.  It’s possible to sample authentic Nyonya cuisine, which is a unique blend of Malay spices and Chinese ingredients such as otak-otak, a curried fish meat gilled in banana leaves. Portions of this are usually served small and very cheap, so it’s a fun one to sample.  Other dishes like the classic Laksa and food served in clay pots that come out hot and stay hot, are available alongside various Asian soups, coconut curries, cuttlefish, Nasi Lemak and variations of Chinese spring rolls, a plethora of fruit juices, shakes and not forgetting, the unmistakable shaved ice cendol and kacang (a must try).  There’s certainly something for everyone and you’ll be sure to come back again and again with a price that’s great for the budget traveler.

Chinatown

There’s something exhilarating about a nighttime stroll through Chinatown with all its lights, sounds and smells.  Go with an empty stomach and you’ll be sure to leave full.  On the weekends during the night market there are so many street hawkers selling anything and everything you will not be disappointed no matter how adventurous you are.  From sweet desserts to dim sum, all prices are reasonable and can be washed down with a pearl drink or fruit juice.  Jonker Street is where the main action can be found.  The area has a compliment of bars and restaurants which are often found in traditional shop homes, some beautifully restored.

If you’re looking to eat in one of the shop houses then don’t walk past the forever busy Jonker Dessert Museum Café.  A perfect place for those on a budget, the eating here is excellent and will cost you about $1 for a more than adequate plate of food to stave off the hunger.  The Nasi Lemak here is the best I’ve eaten in Malaysia, but don’t take my word for it, try it yourself.  The outside of the shop is small and pokey looking, but get inside and the charm of the place will quickly wash over you.

If coffee is your thing, be sure to order a kopi susu, a thick, rich coffee with sweetened condensed milk that should be to be stirred, a delicious jolt to the system.

For the best Nyonya Cendol (shaved ice with coconut milk, green worms and condensed milk) in town, try the Jeta Groves restaurant (170, Taman Melaka Raya, 75000 Melaka), a favorite of the owners at Samudra Inn.

If good food is an important part of your trip, don’t miss Melaka on your way through Malaysia.  There’s simply so much choice and not enough time to try everything.  I’ve been to many countries around the world and Malaysia has certainly struck a chord with me, a piece of my heart will be left in this beautiful country and in a certain restaurant on Jonker Street!

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A little History

Melaka has long been an attraction, from the tourists filling Jonker Street today, to the powerful rulers of centuries past. If you take a moment to read about Melaka’s history it seemed there was a continuous battle for this historic port city that was born a small fishing village. From the early 1400’s the winds of change blew, bringing with it the Sultanate of Melaka who brought Islam from India. Foreign traders soon caught on to the great wealth that arrived shortly after as Melaka progressed to become an important port on the China spice trade route.  From there the city’s history unfolded in a pastiche of culture from the early Portuguese invaders, the occupation of the Dutch, to British settlements and finally the arrival of the Japanese for a brief period during WWII.  All of this combined with the already diverse Malaysian cultures of Chinese, Malay and Indian makes Melaka a must see while in Malaysia.

Getting to know the town

The sights, sounds and tastes are enough to get lost in at first, but with a little planning Melaka is easy to experience in a few days. The city is definitely a mix of historical splendor and modern conveniences with the continued construction of new shopping malls, businesses parks and apartments. The modern adaptations only surround the old however, which is very easy to navigate and hard to miss!  It would be useful to obtain the free tourist map which lists most of the attractions from either the tourist office or ask your hotel/guesthouse as many have them available.

Sightseeing

A great way to begin any visit to Melaka is to take the river boat cruise, which can be very rewarding at night when the riverside is illuminated by thousands of ornamental lights. It’s also refreshing to be outdoors when the sun slips below the horizon allowing a cool breeze to pick up over the water.

Historical Center

To begin a day of sightseeing in Melaka, start early and if at all possible try to visit during the week, as the city fills up and can get very crowded on weekends. A great place to start is the historical center. Here Porta de Santiago (A’Famosa) echoes a past of Portuguese rule.  The entrance to the Portuguese fort was erected in 1511 and although it was badly damaged during the power struggles with the Dutch, it does serve as an important landmark in the city. Behind the ruins on a small hill is St. Paul’s Church, which offers great views all the way to the port. The church is the final resting place for many European settlers, with several tombstones bearing the names and dates of the departed. The church had been used as a place of worship for the Portuguese who constructed it and later the Dutch, though the British merely used it as storage for gunpowder during their presence in Melaka. Built of large brick in 1521 all that’s left is the foundation and walls.
 

Museums

Within a short distance there are several museums that may be of interest such as the Proclamation of Independence Memorial, housed in a beautiful British colonial building. Others include Melaka Sultanate Palace which is striking at first glance, but is in fact a replica of the 15th century Malay palace, and the Peoples Museum.

Walk towards the town square and it becomes clear, Melaka is a buffet of culture. A symbol of the Dutch influence is portrayed in the small windmill next to the rivers edge. A speedy roadway cuts between the town square and the river. At the picturesque square a fountain forms the centerpiece, surrounded by a bright red clock tower, Christ Church, Malaysian Youth Museum, The Stadthuys and the Museum of History and Ethnography which is one of the biggest attractions and a great way to learn about Melaka’s history and cultural influx. The museum building was originally built several hundred years ago by the Dutch and used as the governor’s residence and offices prior to being turned into the present day museum.

All the museums are reasonably priced and won’t break the bank if you have time to visit. There are many other museums not mentioned in this article and should be pursued according to your interest.

Chinatown

Chinatown is a historic array of visibly pleasing shops, homes, restaurants and temples. Crossing the bridge, just opposite of the town square is the start of Jonker Walk, a place that comes alive with street vendors during the weekend night market. On a weekday day it’s still fun to wander the narrow streets, admire the restored homes and browse through antique shops. One museum that’s worth a look is the Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum as it offers a great way to view typical Baroque-style homes of the wealthy Chinese. After a long day of sightseeing, relax with a stop at a traditional tea house for Chinese tea.

Outside the center

Outside the historic center there are still lots of things to do. Recreational activities await those who need respite from the many museums and shops. Golf, beaches, water parks, zoo, theme parks, crocodile and butterfly farms along with forests await the adventurous. A nearby break within walking distance from the center is Bukit Cina, the largest Chinese cemetery outside China. It’s a shady hill, very peaceful and there are two notable sights at the foot of the hill. One is the Sam Po Kong Temple alongside Hang Li Po’s Well and the Chinese Memorial, erected in remembrance of the thousands of Chinese that lost their lives during the Japanese occupation in WWII. The victim’s bodies that were cruelly killed during the war were collected and buried at the foot of Bukit Cina.
 

Melaka’s lasting impression

Melaka is a place worthy of pleasing the senses. Numerous mouth watering flavors, which reflect the city’s cultural influences, tantalize taste buds when sampling Malaysian food at its best. Great shopping is abundant from air conditioned mega malls to historic homes housing antiques. Plenty of sightseeing to suit all manner of interests and hotels for every budget, Melaka is a city where the dollar really stretches. Great sights, excellent value, tasty cuisine, this is the place for everyone.

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Due to its location on the map, Cherating is a popular rest stop on the east coast of Malaysia. Depending whether you’re heading north or south will dictate the level of difficulty getting to this sleepy town.

How to get there from the north and south

As I was coming from the north heading south along the east coast it took several very slow buses to finally drop me off along Highway 3 next to Cherating. From Marang I had to jump to Dungun, then Kenaman where I finally boarded my last bus which was another 20 minutes to Cherating. Every time I changed buses there was a wait, sometimes more than an hour and from Dungun to Kenaman the bus took 2 hours to go 60km because it stopped at ever bus stop along the highway (every 500M)! If coming from the south heading north you are in luck, hopefully. Once in Kuantan there are regular buses heading towards Kenaman, get on that one. Just ask the bus driver to drop you in Cherating. The journey is said to take one hour, but may take longer.

Accommodation

Once dropped at the roadside several signs for resorts and guesthouses point down the only road heading towards the beach. Cherating is very small and quiet so it’s easy to navigate on foot with heavy bags and there are several budget options. Some chalets, or little cabins as I refer to them, are located right on the beach, while others are a couple blocks inland, lowering the price a little. Matahari Chalets ended up being my home for a few nights, just a five minute walk from the beach. The owners make their guests feel very welcome and have several adorable cats. The place is clean and well run, with a fully equipped kitchen and book exchange for guests. Little cabins dot a nice area of green space; some have private bathrooms while others are shared. What attracted me was the lovely veranda that came with our cabin and the windows that can be sealed shut at night to keep blood sucking mosquitos at bay.

Looking around Cherating there seems to be plenty of choice with varying quality. There are many options that will probably meet and may exceed the comfort and cleanliness of Matahari, though a significant number of establishments are left un-kept and slowly rot away with little to no staff batting an eye.

Cherating

Cherating is nestled along a wide stretch of beach lined with wispy palms and swaying fern like trees. The coast is beautiful but not as inviting as it may sound. The water is clear beneath a very shallow beach created by an extended natural sandbar, thus the water is hot, which is fun to wade through, but not an ideal swimming spot. That hasn’t stop people from coming here though as it’s an excellent rest stop between journeys.

A few shops line the main road selling beach toys, souvenirs and snacks and there are several seafood restaurants to choose from. Surprisingly this coastal stretch is not really built up, giving the appearance of a lovely coastal campsite. There are several empty lots advertising land for sale and abandoned buildings, some have begun construction leaving wood piles to rot in the wet humid climate. This leaves the look of a village in the wake of disaster in some parts of town. Perhaps it is the amount of rain that has fallen this year in Malaysia (or every year) or perhaps it is because the monsoon season has just passed along the east coast.

Through and through, it’s still a resort town housing a sizable neighborhood of Malays often out for a mid morning tea, then an afternoon one and an evening one. The town is inviting, it may be small with not a lot to do, though the people are very friendly and along the riverside there is always some live music in the evening enticing visitors to kick back with a few cold beers.

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Pulau Kapas is a pretty little island 6km off the east coast of peninsular Malaysia. Its powder white shores are bathed in crystal clear waters that have proved so inviting many visitors stay weeks longer than originally planned. Unfortunately for us we found our island hideaway at the end of our journey.

Kapas is easy to get to with regular ferry services from Marang, on the mainland. At the departure pier there are lots of travel agents anxiously waiting to sell you an overnight package with your ferry ticket and you must buy the ferry ticket form one of them. Prices are fixed for the ferry so it’s a matter of who you start talking to first. We decided to play it by ear, so to speak, and pick a chalet upon arrival.

With little knowledge of the island we booked our ferry ticket (open return) and got on the next service out to sea. The journey takes about 15 minutes and you’re provided with lifejackets which should put nervous passengers at ease. Of course the big waves outside the harbor won’t help, but they’re good fun if you’re the marine mammal type.

When the boat dropped us at the jetty the first thing I noticed was how clear the water was as schools of little striped fish, black, yellow and white raced about. From a distance it is easy to assess the small islands circumference at just 3 km long and 1 km wide. Only the western side is inhabited, while the eastern side is rocky and hosts a dangerous current. The rest is left to Mother Nature, trees climbing to the sun, while a thick blanket of jungle foliage fights for space beneath. Divers are drawn here for some popular dives such as the WWII Japanese landing craft, though there are lots of snorkeling opportunities as well. Snorkeling or diving trips can be easily organized once on the island plus snorkels and masks can be rented by the day.

Kapas is known to get busy on the weekends, but especially this weekend as it happened to be in conjunction with an international Swimathon.  Every chalet we spoke to explained they were not sure if a room would be available for the following night, Saturday, because of this event. Walking up and down the beach looking for a secured space to spend the next few days turned out to be futile, although my pacing along the shore won me a chance to see a monitor lizard. Strutting slowly before my eyes the animal must have been nearly 4ft long and the weight of a medium sized dog; dark on top with a honey colored underbelly. It paid no attention to me as I stopped to watch its progress into the dark undergrowth.

It was late afternoon, by the time we got settled into our room at The Long House. The rustic wooden building was rectangular in shape with a dorm room in the center and 8 private rooms surrounding the exterior. Every room felt spacious, came with colorful mosquito nets hung above beds and simple wooden doors and windows that opened outwards to catch the tropical breeze. A wide veranda wrapped around the entire building which was built on stilts amongst the shade of coconut palms and a marshy forest, keeping the house cooler throughout the day. The owner, Captain, as he was aptly called, was proud to tell me he was able to build the place without sacrificing a single tree from the location. Facing the ocean, a communal area had several wicker sofas and chairs for guests to read and relax. The Long House rested at the far end of the beach, and although there are not really many places to choose from on the island between several sweeping coves, I felt the beach at this end of the island was one of the best. 

To find out more read the Capt’s blog

When Saturday arrived and there was literally no room for us to stay, we were made a comfy bed on the veranda for the night. This was the night before the swimathon and the island was completely booked, so I was extremely grateful to have some shelter. I could hear the waves lapping and often the wind would pick up relieving the warm air that collected around my skin. Around 7:00am, when the sun had already risen we got out of bed to catch the beginning of the swimathon. It was said that nearly 300 people had signed up for the 6.5km swim from Kapas to the main land.

Near the jetty swimmers stood around, some warming up in the water. All wearing their numbered orange swim caps, mostly men, though some women were swimming too. Exactly at 7:30am the flare gun fired and the swimmers ran towards the sea to begin their swim. One unlucky man needed rescuing within the first few minutes after he suffered a severe cramp in his thigh. Apart from this, no other injures occurred besides a couple of eleven year old boys who suffered with exhaustion and arrived to shore on wobbly legs. The winner, a Malaysian managed the swim in less than 1hr 10mins winning over 43,000 RM, not bad for a morning swim!

Essentially after the race was over and the swimmers left, the island was a ghost town. I am not even sure how many people can be accommodated on Kapas, as there are only a scattering of places to choose from and all fairly modest. There are no roads, thus no vehicles, just the sound of distant boats, but mostly the sound of crashing waves. No shops, no banks, one dog and not a lot else but some really relaxed people.

As the afternoon hours hung heavy into the day, several dark clouds rolled in and a thunderous rain storm opened up. I was glad to have a room again at The Long House, though it was my last night. Time has been ticking and I have a flight to catch in Singapore, such a shame to find this place at the end of my journey, though what luck to have found it at all. Now I’ve been there I will always go back, Kapas has become that special place. I will visit again and again in my mind, to relax on the veranda at The Long House and look out to sea.

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With only one train a day at 06:00am from Nakhon Si Thammarat to the Thai border town of Sungai Kolok we were faced with an early start.  The train is considered “ordinary” class and numbered 451, ticket prices reflect the level of comfort at 70B ($2) each.  It’s possible to buy a ticket in advance from the station or if you get out of bed early enough, the morning of departure.  The train is supposed to arrive at 14:45, but this should be thought of as flexible with 15:30 being more realistic!

Once aboard, it’s easy to fit bulky backpacks into the overhead storage, the windows open all the way down to try to stop the heat of the day finding its way inside an otherwise stuffy carriage!  There’s no air-con on ordinary trains, instead there are ceiling mounted fans. Check to see if yours works before getting comfortable or you might end up hotter than usual!  Sitting down is a slap of reality as you discover how hard a wooden seat can be for a few moments let alone the prospect of 9 plus hrs!  Yes riding the only train option to the border is not a comfortable one and that’s before the hordes of people start to pack the train with three to a seat instead of two! Yes this train does not take reservations, remember this is “ordinary.”

The discouragement of the heat and the discomfort of the seats don’t rattle the attitudes of the passengers who are friendly and full of smiles.  There are many options for something to eat or drink served by vendors walking the length of the train.  These include local Malay food, fruit and packaged snacks for the less adventurous on a travel day!

Once settled into the journey, beautiful scenery drifts slowly past; a few distant mountains climb into clouds, flooded rice fields sprawl across acres and acres of land, an abundance of green jungle foliage wraps and twists its way around yet more green foliage, waterways and small villages ebb and flow on their natural way.  There’s a sense of peace and tranquility on this journey even from its uncomfortable position.

It was Hat Yai, at half way through our journey, where men boarded the train to patrol the carriages with machine guns casually slung over their shoulders, flak jackets, military boots and camouflage gear to complete the intimidation.  Their patrols would sometimes lead them to question whether a bag belonged to someone or not, only leaving when satisfied the truth was being told.  Our military escort lasted until we got off the train at the border.

To our surprise the platform gate was locked preventing passengers leaving for about five minutes after stepping off the train.  Military personnel were there again with guns and we can only assume some sort of clearance was needed before being allowed to proceed.

Border crossing

Several taxi drivers will immediately try to win your business as soon as you make it through the gate wanting to take you to the border and beyond.  There’s no real need to take a taxi though as its only 1km to the crossing and a good opportunity to stretch your legs after being cramped inside the train for a long time.  If you need to exchange your remaining Baht then do so at the currency exchange place located just to the left as you get out of the station.  The rate isn’t too bad and no commission is charged. 

To find the border, just follow the main road left from outside the station.  The border is more for vehicles to cross, but walking is no problem either.  Fill in your Thailand departure card and stand in the short line to be checked out of Thailand.  Then walk across the bridge and into the immigration building on the left.  Pick up an immigration form at the first window, fill it in and take it to a window marked 1, 2 or 3.  This process only takes a few minutes.  The border crossing is not particularly busy at all compared to some others in Asia.  Once in Malaysia there are signposts which lead you to the bus station, about 150 meters from the border crossing.  Buses run to Kota Bharu every hour and are inexpensive, a welcome sight after a long day.  Only forty-five more minutes and you’ll be there!

If you do happen to find yourself in Nakhon Si Thammarat looking for a way to the eastern Malaysian border crossing, then it might be worth looking into some alternative routes and/or methods.  There are bus options to other cities which might offer better routes or if you want to travel by train it might be prudent to organize a stopover in Hat Yai.  From here you can arrange to take the faster and more comfortable express train the remainder of the journey to the border.

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If you’re interested in getting off the main tourist trail in southern Thailand, look no further than Nakhon Si Thammarat. Ok, so it’s not exactly off the main tourist trail if you are Thai, but as for non Buddhist foreigners, it offers an insight into the spirited Thai culture.

Nakhon Si Thammarat is located in southern Thailand, just off the main rail artery connecting Bangkok to the south. It’s known throughout Thailand as an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists, dubbed “City of Monks,” Nakhon is also the second largest city in the south.

As I was heading south to Malaysia I thought it would be a good choice along the way. On arrival, first sight of the city was a let down. It’s in line with most larger Thai cities, strewn with slap up shop homes, corroded by the hot humid environment, plenty of traffic and the usual obstacle course involved in walking along sidewalks, I managed to wind my way along the sidewalk to the Thai Hotel.

Sightseeing

It was decided that Rich and I would be spending a couple of nights here to ensure one full day devoted to sightseeing. From our hotel we followed Yomarat road to the tourist information office and obtained a free city map which points out local places of interest in the old side of the city, such as temples, shrines and the ancient city wall. Unfortunately the map does not include half of the city streets making the task of sightseeing difficult. We found the best way to get around was to just ask for help. The people in Nakhom are some of the friendliest in Thailand and even if there is a language barrier, good old hand gestures do the trick. 

The city is teeming with temples, old and new, though the most visited and most famous one is a must, Wat Mahathat. According to the city’s tourist board the temple is “very old,” and has been with the city a long time. Upon entry you must remove your shoes and to get involved in the whole visit we made a donation and were handed offerings for Buddha, such as marigolds and incense. Your eyes first see the dozens of Buddha images and relics before walking within a garden of small bell shaped chedis, which surround the main chedi, a tall spire which shines from a great distances and is said to be covered with gold.

The temple is a special place for those of the Buddhist faith, and this is apparent from the number of daily visitors, but for foreigners that want to gain insight into the religion it’s an excellent temple to visit. As a visitor we were welcome to leave our offerings, light incense, ring bells, rub drums, and clang a string of small bells around the large pagoda. Many of the Thais that had come to worship simply smiled at our attempts to make drums ring and bells sing, so to speak.

After visiting temples the Shadow Puppet Theatre makes an interesting stop. The Shadow Play House has a small museum were you can view puppets from different parts of Asia; some go back to 250 years ago. Shadow puppet theatre is one of the oldest forms of entertainment in Asia and usually depicts old Buddhists stories. The puppets are made of leather and the process can sometimes be seen at the Play House. When we visited, a short 15 minute show was presented using traditional instruments for sound. Some puppets are for sale at the small shop, but there is no pressure to buy and only a small fee requested for viewing the show.

[youtube:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_l60XBE_cSg&hl 425 355]

Accommodation and restaurants

My guidebook warned there would not be the usual guesthouse options, but instead well managed, good value hotels. The hotels are all centered in the modern side of the city and there are several options.

Near the Thai Hotel a few coffee shops are open daily and several Thai restaurants offer excellent seafood options. Not all menus are in English, as only a sprinkling of foreigners venture here. Prices are all very reasonable and the people seem extremely friendly with some just wanting to practice their English with you. With the option of good coffee just outside my doorstep, excellent seafood, “Thai Style,” and a cozy room at $10 a night, I felt there was no rush to leave.

Transport

Centered in town is the rail station, only a few minutes walk form the Thai Hotel. I have opted to continue my journey to Malaysia by rail. The train journey south will be a long one as the only option is an “ordinary’ train leaving at 6am for Sungai Kolok. Thus a slow moving bucket of bolts, complete with open windows and humming fans will be my southbound vehicle. Of course there are regular buses, shared taxis and minibuses connecting with places like Hat Yai, Trang and those bound for gulf islands like Ko Samui. Then there is the option for those headed north to take the train towards Bangkok.   

Inter city transportation is a cinch as most places are easily reached on foot. City bus, moto taxis and share-songthaews are always ready to be of use.

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Khao Sok National Park covers an area of 738sq km and is located inland from the Andaman coastline in southern Thailand.  Easily reached from Khao Lak or Krabi by bus, Khao Sok has become a popular tourist stop en-route to other destinations.

The national park is home to many limestone rock formations, covered with lush tropical foliage.  Large mammals including wild elephant, leopard and tigers as well as 155 species of birds and many types of lizard take refuge in the impenetrable undergrowth.  With multiple streams and rivers cutting their way through the park it leaves vast areas difficult to access, something which helps to preserve it.

Buses stop at the end of the road which leads to the park headquarters and entrance.  Several Tuk Tuks will wait to pick you up and take you to guesthouses.  We found the Nung House which has an average restaurant, free tea and coffee and rustic bungalows nestled amongst trees.  The price isn’t bad for what you get, considering you’re just outside a national park. A mosquito net and hot water showers is an added comfort!

There are a number of organized trips you are immediately offered by those running the guesthouses, but these are pricey at best and don’t really seem good value for money.  We arrived at the park in March which is at the end of the dry season and even though we started to experience some wet days the water levels were very low so canoeing trips and waterfall trips would not really be worth it.

As we wanted to go into the jungle for some exercise we visited the park headquarters and picked up a free map with details of a few hikes that follow the river.  The hike we opted for starts at the park headquarters, and is easily marked. It takes you 7km into the jungle to Ton Kloi Waterfall and then has you retrace your steps back to the park headquarters again for a total of 14km. It is possible to pay a guide to take you into the jungle on these hikes, but this is not necessary and not something we opted for.

The trail starts off on a wide dirt road that gently curves its way through the trees, but once you go past the first waterfall of Wing Hin at 2.8km from headquarters the terrain and path change dramatically.  Now it’s about skipping over rocks to navigate a way across the many stream crossings, leaping over writhing tree roots, slipping down steep pathways near to perilous drops to the water below, while keeping an eye out for trees adorned with arrows to point the way deeper into the jungle.  March is not the best time of year for the waterfalls, but the hike is a good workout and you will definitely be surrounded by a dense jungle landscape with the sound of gibbons calling in the distance and the deafening buzz of insects all around you.

As we neared the farthest point on the trail at Ton Kloi waterfall we were attacked. Our assailants came at us with an unrelenting determination from the wet ground, an army of leeches!  Let’s just say the sound of a gibbons call is easily drowned out by the wailing cry of Megan with a sock full of leeches.  Unfortunately we weren’t prepared for this ambush from below so after only managing to pull one off we were forced to make a hasty retreat in the direction we’d come with several of the blood thirsty suckers on each of our ankles.  Luckily we met some people who were carrying a knife, not the best tool for leech removal, but a victorious one nonetheless.  I’ve now made a mental note to hike with salt, matches or leech protection socks for any future battles.

The best place to stop on the trail was Tang Nam which is 6km from headquarters and where we decided to stop on the way back.  It’s here you can swim in the notoriously clean waters of the Sok River which has eroded a gorge through the rocks.  Don’t be surprised if you’re joined by some curious fish in the waters here.

It’s important to take plenty of water with you and consider taking a few bananas for energy, as the heat and humidity if nothing else, will leave you panting.  The hike is supposed to take 6hrs, but we completed it in about 5.5hrs with a 30minute stop at Tang Nam for a watery plunge to cool off.

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The area of Khao Lak, which makes up three separate beach areas, was once a little known as a seaside destination. All that changed after the devastating effects of the December 26 tsunami of 2004, which destroyed most hotels and homes in the area and killed thousands in its wake.  For more on the Tsunami, its effects and life post tsunami read our article here.

We opted to stay in the Bang Niang beach area which used to accommodate the bulk of the budget guest homes in the pre-tsunami days.  The mood has changed since then with most hotels and restaurants being rebuilt for the midrange traveler in mind.  It is however still possible to get a room for around $15 per night which is more than we usually pay for accommodation in Asia, but having been on the road for a while we decided to treat ourselves.  Staying at the Moonlight Guesthouse was very special, mainly due to the extremely friendly owners and staff. The rooms are exceptionally clean and come with air conditioning, satellite TV, double bed, power shower with hot and cold water, balcony, writing desk and mini fridge.  A maid comes and cleans the room everyday and with free wifi it makes working on the blog a cinch.

Eating

There are a number of restaurants in the Bang Niang area, some are a little pricey for a budget traveler, but in reality the prices are very affordable for vacationers on a shorter trip or with a flexible budget.  It is possible to find cheaper soup restaurants with the usual local Thai food options.  These can be found on the main road near the Mango bungalows.  There are also lots of seafood restaurant options, with tempting BBQ’s of fresh fish along with a smattering of Green, yellow and red curries.

The Bang Niang beach itself is a long narrow strip of golden sand with a very flat shoreline, enabling you to walk out further than usual into the warm waters.  The beach doesn’t offer any shade as the young palm trees were planted to replace those that fell to the fate of the tsunami.  Several spots along the beach offer food and drinks at a price!  The beach feels so peaceful and quiet with only a handful of people ever on it.  Most mornings of my stay were spent at the beach and every time I’d look out to the ocean’s horizon to take in the splendor of the clouds as they merged with the water in pastel colors along the lip of a vanishing pool.  It’s hard to truly describe how beautiful it looked, but I do know I’ve never seen anything quite like it before and it left me awestruck.

Renting bikes

There are several places of interest in the surrounding area and all are relatively easy to reach.  For us to see some of them, we decided to rent bicycles from the shop directly across from Moonlight Guesthouse.  With a few adjustments to our mountain bikes made and a map in hand we headed south down route 4. The road is relatively wide and in most places you can ride on the shoulder marked with a solid white line, keeping you safely away from the cars.  After a short cycle you arrive at Nang Thong which has a nice beachfront of more expensive hotels, guesthouses and spas.  These are certainly going to be out of the price range of the budget traveler!  Keep going south on the main road and it begins to wind its way steeply upward into the tree canopy.  I realized right at that moment mountain bikes are needed on these roads as the single geared bikes many places rent just wouldn’t cut it.  With the warmth of the day, the stunning scenery flashing past and being glad to not be working made it impossible for me to conceal a broad smile.  There are several nice downhill sections of this road which are a lot of fun, just keep off the brakes and enjoy!

After a decent cycle we arrived at Khao Lak beach which is located just a few hundred meters before the elephant trekking centre.  The beach is very picturesque with trees and large boulders bordering the waters edge at one end of the beach and a long view to the left which wraps itself around another cove, trailing off into the distance.  This area is the least developed of the three beach communities, but it does offer some excellent beachfront accommodation, although it will cost you a cut above midrange. This beach is used primarily by those staying at the resorts so we were the only ones sitting on the sand with everyone else using their reserved lounger!  It was a nice feeling however to be able to sit on the same beach as those who’d spent a considerable amount more to do it!

After eating lunch at the bamboo seafood restaurant, which has excellent coconut curries, we decided to make our way to the Ton Pling waterfall.  The waterfall is located in the same place as the elephant trekking.  The guys who work there are friendly and allowed us to lock our bikes up before pointing us in the direction of the falls.  Perhaps it was wrong of me to think there would be a hike involved because it turned out to only be 400metres up a winding path which takes you past a rubber plantation and a few elephants returning form a trek.  As you round a corner a suspension bridge appears out of the trees allowing you to cross right in front of the waterfall.  I’ll be honest, it was very disappointing.  Nothing more than a trickle tumbled down the rocks, the plunge pool at the bottom was very small and really the whole thing was a letdown!  Perhaps during the rainy season it’s a little more impressive, but on the whole I wouldn’t recommend going out of your way for this one.
Contribute

I’m sure there are better examples of waterfalls in Thailand, although as yet I’ve not found them.  If you know of any please leave a comment at the end of this article or if you’d like to contribute your own article with or without pictures then acknowledge your interest by filling out the form on the contribute page found here http://worldramblers.com/contribute/

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In 2004, just after Christmas day, a powerful 9.1 earthquake off the Sumatran coast displaced billions of tons of ocean water generating several destructive tsunami waves in all directions. The waves destroyed homes, resorts, shops and lives along the shores of a dozen countries. In the aftermath 229,866 lives were lost, of those, Thailand lost 8,212.

The people of Thailand’s Andaman Coast suffered enormously in the days, months and years that have followed. It was the height of tourist season when the tsunami struck, as many popular resorts in places such as Phuket and Krabi were crowded with tourists. Just a little further north of them, the quiet seaside retreat of Khao Lak had been virtually destroyed.

Nearly half of Thailand fatalities were lost in Khao Lak alone. Memorials with photographs and flowers are hung along shoreline palm trees echoing a day Khao Lak is sure not to forget. When the 11 meter wall of water sent debris ashore, up rooting trees and tearing down anything in its path the attractive beachside town was destroyed in moments. A stark reminder of the sheer force of the tsunami can be viewed by visiting the rather large Thai police boat that was pushed 2 km inland. The boat has been left as a memorial atop a little knoll just past the main highway. 

In the aftermath of the tsunami many Thais were deeply traumatized and fled to other regions of Thailand unable to relax near the sea. Some have stayed and began to piece their lives back together and with the flux of those unable to cope, new people have moved south the take over the trade. Hotels and guesthouses have popped up with investments from foreigners and Thais have arrived from Bangkok and other regions in the north. 

For the people who stayed, forgetting that destructive day is not an option. Some children were left without parents and women without husbands. Shelters have helped many of the affected families with food and clothing and charitable organizations from around the world provided aide to many people in need throughout the disaster zones. In Nang Thong the Tsunami Volunteer Center continues to except donations and volunteers.

During my visit to Khao Lak I based myself in Bang Niang, far less developed than neighboring Nang Thong. Reminders of the tsunami seem to be there to stay as many markers site the water levels that raged through and signs point towards evacuation sites. Towering sirens are dotted throughout the area for warnings and pressure sensor buoys have been planted along the coastline as an effective early warning system. 

One sunset evening I stood with my toes in the sand and looked down the beach watching couples hold hands and children play in the waves. It’s hard to imagine the horrifying series of events that unfolded the morning of the tsunami. The area is getting its face back as a laid back holiday spot for families and couples. The warm wash of surf, sea and sand are all the right ingredients to put people at ease. Though plenty of new up market hotels have sprung up alongside empty lots advertising land for sale still reminds visitors Khao Lak has not fully recovered.

A scenic memorial park has been erected about 25 kms north of Khao Lak, just south of Kho Khao Island Pier. The Nemkhem Tsunami Memorial Park is small and set along the lapping waves of the Andaman Sea. A large arched memorial is engraved with names of many tsunami victims, some with photographs and loving words. These reminders of the enduring pain felt from the loss is scattered throughout the area. In Bang Niang memorial sculpture named, “Stabile,” by Lars Englund is placed not far from the police boat and only a few moments walk away is the Tsunami Museum.

The museum is small and provides a sufficient amount of details to those that are interested in the facts relating to the cause of the tsunami and what charities have done to help. Founded by Dr. David Sattler from Washington University, the non profit museum is a great way to contribute to the local community as 100% of donations go to help local children.

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Since loosing all our belongings in a wildfire, Rich and I have slowly begun to put the pieces back together. It’s a long process and it’s even more drawn out when you decide to put the old lifestyle on hold to travel the world, but one idea has stuck with us from the beginning and that was to replenish our wardrobes in Bangkok!

The capitol city of Thailand, Bangkok has a reputation for bargain shopping and a lot more. It’s the gateway to South East Asia, its home to some of Thailand’s top dining experiences, notorious clubs, SkyTrain, river taxis and high rises, Bangkok has a lot to see and explore even if your not here just for shopping.

We comfortably based ourselves in the Banglamphu district near legendary Khao San Road. You could say this is the backpacker headquarters of Southeast Asia, known for cheap deals on accommodation, beer specials at Gulliver’s Traveler’s Tavern and numerous street stalls selling pirated CD’s, fake designer bags and inexpensive clothing items ranging from fashion tops, jeans, trousers, shorts and a plethora of t-shirts.

Besides the street stalls selling cheap garb there are also numerous reputable and licensed shops selling real designer labels at bargain prices, and if a designer label isn’t the attraction, then there’s a bulk of clothing shops selling handmade ethnic ware to fashionable street ware and tailor made apparel, all good quality and well worth a look.

As I am not much of a shopper, putting this day off for so long, it came to me as a surprise that I thoroughly enjoyed picking out my new wardrobe. Not long after the fires Rich and I had little to nothing but the clothes on our backs, so when donations poured in we were extremely grateful. We received clothing items that we still wear today, along with some items we packed away for our return. I found shopping extremely difficult in the aftermath of the fire. My head was spinning with stressful images and my mind took a “break” by becoming a bit of machinery, working its way through a dense fog, not understanding the actions going on around. When I did shop and purchase a few new items, I could not fully comprehend what I needed, even though now looking back, it’s so easy to know what to buy. It’s incredible what trauma does to a person.

Over a year later I am in Bangkok ready to replenish. Rich and I split up to shop on our own, each with the same amount of cash, with a plan to meet back at the guesthouse in time for lunch. As prices are not fixed and everything can be negotiated we first walked the street getting to know prices. You wont get anywhere in Thailand if you offer an absurd price for those shorts you’ve been eyeing. Most of the time people initially ask a higher price than what they are still willing to sell at.  Be sure to bargain gently; unlike some I witnessed who were disrespectful and rude. My experience was fun and I found that the best bargains were a few streets back from Khao San.

For our next shopping experience we took the sky train to Sala Daeng and found a sparkling shopping plaza worth a gander. With several options for men and women from well known shops such as “Body Shop,” “Gap,” and a wide range of English book stores. I found a little known gem called, “Ware House,” selling some of my favorite new items. The shop was like one rather large walk-in wardrobe, complete with narrow mouse trails (that are for you to walk along) and piles of folded clothes stacked upon shelves. They sold merchandise from, “American Eagle Outfitters,” “Abercrombie and Fitch,” “Gap,” and more. When we were both done and ready to ship our wardrobes back home the cost came to USD $70 to California for 10 kilos. I guess the next step Rich and I have will be finding somewhere to keep all our new clothes upon our return!

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Chiang Mai, located in the north of Thailand, is considered to be the second city of the kingdom and is home to about 250,000 people. It’s a popular destination for visitors with its old quarter set behind an ancient wall and 1.5km square moat.  There are numerous temples and markets to be found here including the infamous Chiang Mai night bazaar which offers tempting handicrafts to all who visit.  More and more people are enrolling in cooking, massage, language and meditation classes than ever before and a pilgrimage to Doi Suthep, the mountain to the west of town has also become popular. Numerous agents in town book day treks or several day and night trips out from the region to all manner of exciting destinations.

Having traveled from Laos on a grueling night bus, we were still recovering when we got here so no plans for any major outings were made.  Instead we decided to visit the Tiger Kingdom, located within a 30minute tuk tuk ride from the centre of Chiang Mai.

Tiger Kingdom

Upon our arrival we were instructed to look around a little first before deciding if we wanted to pay to enter one of the tiger enclosures and spend fifteen minutes up close with big cats or small cats! My bravery started to waver as we walked around a pathway overlooking the enclosures to witness several large tigers strutting around playfully with some tourists.

There are options to pay to go into a tiger cub, medium or large tiger enclosure.  It was at this point we started to wonder whether we should really consider any of them due to the fact that there wasn’t very much room for the tigers to roam around or any real privacy for them.  I recall visiting San Diego zoo and finding it hard to even see the tigers as there’s so much space and foliage to camouflage them, whereas here it’s not the case.  Another lady spoke to us about her concerns and mentioned that she wasn’t sure if the tigers were subjected to drugging in order to keep them docile in front of visitors. 

The pamphlet given to visitors really doesn’t detail in any way how the tigers come to be at the kingdom, whether or not they are drugged and there’s no explanation of the reason the Tiger Kingdom is running at all.  This was information we felt should be readily available as it’s easy to assume the Tiger Kingdom is purely a business for profit with no conservational or educational mandate.

We were verbally assured the Tigers are not drugged and although this was a relief in some ways it offered no relief at the prospect of getting into a cage with them!  It was also made clear to us that some of the tigers are donated to Zoo’s all over the world while others are swapped out to the owner’s ranch for tranquil periods.  If this is to be believed then I hope it’s often as the enclosures and cages seemed uncomfortably small and inadequate for the fully matured animals.

Opting not to put my full faith in a keeper, or should I say, stranger and his small, but solid bamboo stick to protect me, we decided to visit with the medium tigers.  The cubs are very young and spend most of the day around keepers who play with them and get them used to being around people all the time.  The medium sized tigers are about eight months old, but don’t let that make you think they are a pushover!

Before you enter the enclosure and after you’ve signed a disclaimer the keeper tells you to leave your bags behind as you don’t want to incite the tigers to play directly with you! Instructions are quite clear that you are not to make any sudden moves, loud noises and are ONLY permitted to approach the tigers from behind.  It might seem strange to only approach from behind, but then again tigers are used to pouncing on prey from the front!

I will be honest, the feeling of touching the fur of a live eight month old tiger is exhilarating and after the apprehension fades it’s a joy and a privilege.  The coat feels as you would expect and the warmth and strength of the animal permeates through your fingers as you stroke, stroke and continue to stroke away the surreal feeling of it all.  It’s a strange feeling when you put yourself so close to an animal with the power to end it all right there and yet you still find yourself wanting the closeness and a few shared moments together.  Watching the tigers play in the water and getting up close to my camera lens was enthralling and seeing their cat like behavior made me smile at the memory of the family cat “Eekers” back at home.

The large tigers, which you can also visit, though not past the age of one year, are extremely playful as we witnessed many enjoying their visit in the enclosure. Once the tigers have matured past 12 months they are no longer allowed to interact with humans directly as their playfulness becomes too much to handle! Their size after one year increases a great deal which can be seen by the several large male and females kept in a separate enclosure. Their presence is certainly felt, especially when you walk over and stand next to their cages a few feet away.

It’s hard to say whether or not I would allow myself to repeat such an experience with my overwhelming skepticism for the reasons the tigers come to be at Tiger Kingdom.  It was a wonderful morning spent with beautiful animals and yet I really felt like we weren’t there to help the species, but to help ourselves to a new experience. 

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When it comes to making a choice on a method of transport, think wisely if you’re in for a long journey. During my stay in the historical Lao city of Luang Prabang it was decided that the onward journey would bring my husband and I to Thailand. It’s very popular to take the slow boat between Laung Prabang and Houay Xai, the Thai border crossing along the Mekong. The journey takes two days in either direction with an over night stop in Pak Beng and all the travelers I have spoken to rave about this trip.

Boats departing from the river docks of Luang Prabang offer a regular ticket or a VIP option which stops at a few interesting sights along the way. Though prices range depending on which boat you want to take, who you ask and how wealthy you look, inquire directly at the pier and the price is generally 100,000 kip per day for regular service slow boats. Not a bad price for a scenic journey up river, while getting to know all your new mates on board. If you think you’re in a time crunch and want to get to Thailand fast, then for almost half the price you can catch the local bus to Thailand. That thought brought forward my decision to take the night bus. This way I would save money and time, though the price certainly wasn’t worth the pain I was to endure.

At 5pm in the evening I got to the northern bus station in Luang Prabang to purchase two seats on the night bus to Houay Xai. At the ticket window I asked the cashier when the bus was leaving, he explained that no one shows up until 6PM so sometime after that and passed me a bag of sugar cane, “good for teeth,” he smiled. I thanked him and observed my bus for the night’s journey.

I had been on many night buses throughout my travels and though the bus looked like a model from the 1970’s it was in good condition and had been blessed with a little sticky rice on the front bumper. On departure, sometime after 6PM, I noticed the worst thing about the vehicle, the seats did not recline. So comfort has certainly gone out the window. When the bus started passengers begin to get on, and in a moment we were headed north on the main highway towards China before making a left to Thailand. The road was nothing but a narrow strip of tarmac and gravel winding through dry forests and rural villages.

Darkness soon enwrapped my view to the outside world and I relaxed a little letting my mind drift into a numb sleep. Suddenly I awoke to a glass shattering bang! I looked around only to see stunned passengers doing the same. Even the bus attendant was looking around. The road was so narrow and windy we had to continue driving for nearly ten minutes until there was a safe place to pull over. The engine sounded normal, wheels still turning like before and then when the bus stopped everyone took a look at the back of the bus. Lights came on and it was clear to see that someone had thrown a rock at the bus shattering a back window. Luckily many seats were vacant, so no one was injured. A couple of men assisted in pushing the rest of the glass out before we continued our journey.

While traveling once again the bus began the enduring job of pulling over for every waving person on the side of the road. Keeping a pace to a crawl the bus hugged the curves while the driver avoided massive potholes as best he could, though some craters were unavoidable. A drafty breeze brought a chill inside with each turn as we climbed to higher elevations. I couldn’t help notice that the locals boarding the bus wore long pants, mittens, jackets and warm wooly hats. I on the other hand had a light sweater over a t-shirt and thin cotton trousers, Rich dressed similar in very comfortable attire more suitable to hot humid environments we’d been accustom to over the past months.  More people boarded, the seats were taken up and plastic stools were provided to sit in the walkway. When I saw this I felt lucky to have a seat, not reclining, but a place to rest my back.

The bus continued in this fashion for hours, letting people off in distant villages, picking up those on their onward journey no matter what time of night it was. Some passengers, all Lao and mostly women; got motion sickness during the course of the journey. They were handed plastic bags, but one man never had time to ask, and puked onto the walk way. The smell was something like dog vomit and with each turn the sick made its way towards my feet. When the lights came on again at one stop I could see the mess had traveled so far along the walk way people exiting had no option but to step onto it.

As if the journey couldn’t get worse, the night’s air temperature began to drop rapidly leaving the ignorant ones, i.e., us freezing all night long. So it was a night of no rest, no relief, sickness and fear.

On arrival to Houay Xai just after the sun rose, I was so relived to depart after a 12 hour bus journey, breathe fresh air and let the suns rays defrost my icy skin. With all the bus journeys I have been on, I can easily say without a doubt, that was the worst. I would take the slow boat any day if I had the choice again. If you find your self looking for the cheaper option or want to get to Thailand or Luang Prabang fast, perhaps take the grueling bus in daylight hours, but whatever you do, no matter how hardcore you think you are, don’t take the night bus!

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What was once the capital of a vast kingdom covering all of present day Laos, parts of Northern Thailand and Southern China, Luang Prabang is now a relaxed and charming backwater. With a population close to twenty-thousand there’s a sense of calm when combing the city streets on foot, combined with eagerness from tuk tuk drivers to visit all the numerous nearby attractions.

UNESCO

In 1995, UNESCO designated the town a World Heritage site worthy of protection.  It’s not hard to see their reasons, with several beautiful temples hundreds of years old packed amongst splendid examples of French colonial architecture.  Several different ethnic groups walk the streets in traditional garb, luscious green mountains surround the town and its here that the confluence of the Mekong and Nam River can be found.  Add this to a nightly market offering local crafts of hand woven textiles made of cotton and silk to baskets, embroidery and jewelry alongside narrow streets lined with sumptuous Lao food and Luang Probang is certain to enter your heart, even if only for a few days as a budget traveler.  There’s always a better price available so don’t forget to pack your bargaining skills for this visit.

Tat Kuang

Luang Prabang offers the visitor a fair amount to do and see within city limits, though there’s even more to do in the surrounding countryside. Tour operators in town can arrange any one of the many day trips available. We decided to opt for a visit to the popular Tat Kuang waterfall with its cool turquoise water pools known to be great for swimming.  The waterfall resides about 30km south of town and takes about 45mins to reach by tuk tuk at a cost of 30,000 kip with an additional 20,000 kip needed for entrances.  Traveling along the narrow road takes you past many rural villages and beautiful Lao landscapes.

As far as waterfalls go, there are more beautiful examples to be found in Laos which are also available to swim, but Tat Kuangs location and several cascading pools makes it a popular place to swim.  A trail can be found to the right of the main falls which lead up a steep pathway to the top where there are some places for a good view of the countryside.  You can then walk through the shallow water at the top to the other side of the falls where a path with better footing takes you back down to the base of the falls.  It’s a good walk and best in footwear that you don’t mind getting wet!

The falls are nestled amongst trees which provide a decent amount of shade from the hot sun and there are private changing areas next to the waters edge.

Tat Kuang Si Park is also home to a bear rescue centre built and managed by “Free The Bears,” which was set up in 2003 to provide a home for a growing number of Asiatic bears who have been confiscated from poachers and traffickers.  Asiatic bears or as they are more commonly known, Moon Bears, are medium in size, bigger than a panda bear, but smaller than a grizzly and all have a white collar of fur which helps distinguish them. The bears often arrive at the centre in poor condition, scared and unhealthy.  It is only with the dedicated work of the keepers at the centre and the generous donations of visitors that the bears begin to recover and go on to flourish in the safety of a secure and natural setting within the forest. 

The number of Asiatic bears in the wild is in serious decline with the persistent illegal trade for bear bile and from restaurants and the reduction of the bear’s natural habitat from human activity.

About Bear Bile – Click here for details

Bear bile is sold in parts of Asia as a Traditional Medicine to treat illnesses ranging from headaches to diseases of the heart and liver. Bears are confined to tiny cages and endure lives of terrible pain and suffering as bile is extracted from their gall bladders.

Help the bears

The “Free The Bears” charity does not receive any income from the waterfall entrance fee, so please when you visit the bear rescue centre remember to drop a few notes into the donation tins or buy one of their awareness t-shirts to help their important cause.

Remember – Never buy or consume any bear products:

• Bear bile can be completely replaced by cheaper more effective synthetic and herbal alternatives.
• There is NO evidence that other bear parts (bones, claws, blood) have any medicinal benefits at all.

For more information and ways to help, visit http://www.freethebears.org.au/ and http://www.bearlao.com/ 

The visit to the waterfall concludes with a visit to a traditional village on the way back to Luang Probang.  It gives the locals a chance to sell you some of their homemade crafts and a chance for you to see a little of their culture.  I must say it feels a little staged and perhaps not a truly authentic experience, as the people are used to foreigners visiting them.  It still makes for an interesting walk round and an opportunity to watch the kids play and to get a little closer to their way of life for a few short moments.

Travel Guide

If you’re considering a visit to Luang Probang then don’t leave home without the Guide from TravelFish.  As they state “It’s the most up-to-date guide to Luang Prabang — on or offline. With this 24-page PDF guide in hand, rest assured you’ll have the most recently researched and written guide available.”


Click here for your guide to Luang Prabang

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No matter where your travels take you, packing for the trip is an important part of preparation and can often be one of the most difficult.  It’s useful to consider what to pack, at least a week in advance of your trip so you can pack, re-pack and pack again before leaving home!

There are several factors worth considering when making choices on what you’re prepared to carry with you and the type of luggage used.  Some of these are as follows:

How long will you be away for?
What type of accommodation will be used?
What is the destination climate like (both day and night)?
What transportation methods will be used during the trip?
What do you plan to do while away?

Once you’ve decided on the above, you can start to consider what to pack.  It’s good to remember the simple, but sometimes overlooked factor that the bigger the bag you use the more likely you are to fill it.  Just because you plan to travel the world for a year does not necessarily mean you have to drag a full 100 liter bag round the world with you.  As you prepare to leave home it’s easy to think of many items which seem to be essential, but you will soon realize, while perhaps sweating profusely around town looking for somewhere to stay, it’s not essential to have 4 large novels with you at all times!  For a long journey it’s much better to go with a lighter and smaller pack which offers more comfort, its size will also prevent you from being able to carry as much weight.  That being said it’s still a good idea to not fill your bag as it leaves room for additional items should you wish, or feel the need during your trip.  For the WorldRamblers round the world trip we chose a 65 liter bag for Megan and a 70 liter bag for me which offers ample room.

For help chosing the right backpack for your trip, read our article here

We weren’t impervious to the usual lack of restrain ourselves when it came to packing our bags which is another reason I’m trying to better inform others before making the same mistake. 

Here’s the list of items I left home with thinking they would be essential:

• Passport
• Traveler’s checks/ ATM card
• Socks x 8
• Underwear x 8
• Jeans x1
• Trousers x2
• Sweater x2
• Shirts x2
• Swim trunks
• T-Shirts x6
• Shorts x3
• Light Jacket
• Emergency Poncho
• Wind up torch
• Flip Flops
• Walking Shoes
• Baseball Cap
• Money Belt
• Reading Books x4
• Guide Books x3
• Swimming Goggles
• Sunglasses
• Nested Cook set
• Camping Gas Nozzle
• Tupperware Bowl with lid
• Digital Camera
• Camera Charger
• Laptop
• Travel Adapter
• Washbag and toiletries
• First aid kit x2
• Knife, Fork, Spoon set
• Lock Knife
• Pen Knife
• Leatherman
• ITouch with charger
• Combination padlock
• Rollmat
• Sleeping Bag
• Small towel
• Note Books x2

Since leaving home the number of items being carried has dropped to conserve weight and space in my bag, because I realized some items weren’t essential or we had no further use for them. An example of this would be after leaving Europe we were no longer going to be camping and the climate would be warmer.

Below is a list of items I either gave away, sent back home, threw away or lost:

• Jeans x1
• Trousers x1
• Sweater x1
• Shirts x1
• T-Shirts x2
• Reading Books x3
• Guide Books x3
• Swimming Goggles
• Rollmat
• Tupperware pot with lid
• Baseball cap (lost somewhere in Malaysia)
• Nested Cook set
• Camping Gas Nozzle
• Knife, Fork, Spoon set
• Leatherman

For our trip round the world the difficulty in deciding clothing came from the fact we were to pass through both hot and cold climates.  This left us trying to pack clothes for all occasions and with several different outfit options for them all.  This we’ve come to accept as not being possible with the amount of room in our bags.  It’s not fun carrying summer clothes for months at a time to never use them for anything else other than a pillow in a tent!  In this situation it’s much more suitable to only pack the sorts of clothes you will need for the first few months.  When you know you will be moving into a different climate then it’s time to look for new suitable clothing.  If you’re attached to your clothes you could consider sending them back home. Some however, may be happy to get them out of their bags and not pay the expense of shipping.

When it comes to packing first aid kits and medicines consider the fact all countries sell these items so it’s not worth packing 500 headache tablets with you just in case, as you can easily and affordably acquire these when you need them on the trip.  As a hay fever sufferer I packed enough tablets to protect me for every day of the year, but realistically I only needed to pack enough for a month with a view to purchase more should I need it.  This principal of restocking when needed can be applied to many items you may consider taking with you.  It’s not really worth having spares with you unless you’re planning a trip to the North Pole as there’s bound to be somewhere to replace what’s used!

If you’ve been backpacking and camping and are now moving into areas that no longer require you to camp, then consider shipping home your tent and cooking items such as gas stove and pots.  Once in Asia for example, the price of accommodation and food is so low it’s not necessary to camp in a tent or cook on a gas stove anymore.  These items can certainly add considerable weight to a backpack and take up a lot of room, so why not get the space back for a few mementos of the trip or to take a load off your back.

The Universal Packing List

The above are some examples of what we took on our round the world trip, but it’s by no means an exhaustive list and each trip is different in its own way.  It’s really more of a guide.  It was only after setting off on our journey that I found a useful application on the web called the Universal Packing List which could offer some additional help and guidance when it comes to packing and also preparing for your trip.

The application was created by a guy called Mats Henricson who has spent years compiling and adding to a large list of items you might need on various different types of trips.  Travelers from all over the world have helped contribute to the list and its still growing.

How the UPL works

The program asks several questions of the traveler and then based on those answers determines whether you’ll need your snorkel and flippers or Eskimo shoes!  The application works for short trips to extended journeys and has the ability to email the list to you.

If you would like try the UPL then please visit the Universal Packing List website found at: http://upl.codeq.info/ for your own customized list.

Packing Ebook

For an alternative to the UPL, consider grabbing a copy of the packing secrets ebook

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One of the activities I truly enjoyed In VangVieng was exploring the nearby caves. Making my way from the town center on a rental bike I was amazed to find there are probably a dozen marked caves to choose from. There is no shortage of tour operators all too happy to sell you day trips to other caves, but when there are so many nearby why not get out there and see for yourself?

Vang Vieng stretches along the Xong River, separating it from outlaying majestic mountain scenery and rural villages. I used the toll bridge along the main road to cross the river and get my bearings with the other side. The bridge, decorated with bomb casings, is used primarily for trucks crossing the river as most foot and bike passengers use the free foot bridge further up stream. Once I made it to the tough gravel road on the other side, finding a cave only meant following one of the numerous signs. The first cave I visited was about 6km away, called PhouThong Cave.

When I arrived at the makeshift ticket office I thought I may be in luck for a free visit since the villager appointed to work that day was asleep. But as soon as my squeaky brakes yelped he woke up. Its 10,000 kip per cave ($1.25) and from the look of things each village has appointed someone to collect admissions at the base of the caves. Simple wooden signs dot the road advertising each one, tempting visitors to come and take a look. Families living near the entrances have started small businesses offering guide services, renting flash lights and vending food and drinks, making it easy for anyone to enjoy a fun experience.

At the base of PhouThong Cave two small Lao kids followed me up the steep 100m climb to the entrance. They introduced themselves as guides and carried their own flash light each. Upon climbing into the cave entrance we were quickly shrouded in darkness, my Lao guides took the lead from here. Even the damp air inside was not relief from the hot and humid environment outside.

The cavern trail winds its way under the earth like a serpent. Stalactites drip slowly down from the roof creating a beautiful shimmer in the artificial light.  Following the children we crawled around narrow bends, climbed down crevices and carefully tread alongside deep, dark ravines. By the time we turned back and I saw the first ray of natural light I was shocked to see just how dirty I had become and this was only my first cave.

After lunch it was time for the second cave. Since we had one bike I sat on the seat cushion in the back holding my legs from the fast moving ground beneath as Rich peddled. We rode along a small path to what was thought to be Tiger cave. Following the signs a small meandering trail leads into a wooded forest before opening up to a rice field at the base of a big limestone rock formation. Many signs just after the bridge advertise the area to be about 500m down the road, which makes it a good choice as there are several caves to choose from. The Tiger Cave has become a favorite for its formations of tigers inside.

Rich and I explored Phapouak Lusi Cave.  Be sure to accept the offer to explore the cave with a guide. I found the path inside a little wider then PhouThong, but more adventurous! We climbed down a bamboo ladder, jumped across a dark hole to a round rock base, making it a cave for the athletic! Deep within the interior, roots from hilltop vegetation run along the inside walls like hairs soaking up any moisture. Once at the deepest point we switched off our flashlights and sat in the dark for a moment to listen to the sounds of silence; a must whenever you enter a deep dark cave. I turned my light back on first!

Returning on the same path our guides often tapped formations on the walls which sounded like the beat of a drum.  They always loved our surprised reaction each time. What I loved most was the lack of graffiti inside the cave, leaving clean, natural wonders that sparkle with mineral rich dust.

Some caves advertise that guide services are included, but after visiting a couple of caves I would highly recommend grabbing a guide even if services are not included. Any cave exploring should not be done alone as the interiors can be very dangerous due to questionable footing and numerous passage ways. The guides know the caves well, can assist you if there is any trouble and only ask for a small fee in return usually 5,000 kip per person. Like I said some caves include a guide with entrance, but if it is not clear use good judgment as the villagers selling tickets and guiding speak limited English.

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Located next to the Nam Song River amid a beautiful limestone cluttered landscape, Vang Vieng is home to a love it or loathe it sentiment.

Vang Vieng

The north of Laos has generally been considered the more tourist trodden route and Vang Vieng is certainly part of this.  From the moment you clamber off the bus and walk the road towards the centre of town there’s a sense of no town at all apart from infrastructure purely designed for backpackers.  It’s hard to find a building that has a purpose other than guesthouse, internet café, tourist restaurant or tour operator.  Some say that in order to become securely on the backpacker map the town has lost its soul.

It doesn’t take long to spot the many backpackers lounging around in cafes sucking on Happy shakes and staring at the big screen tv’s blaring out episodes of Friends and Hollywood movies with laughable subtitles.  Out on the street foreigners can often be seen after a day of tubing the Nam Song, stumbling around in bikinis while the men walk the town bare chested.  This is all usually done with a belly full of beer and a voice that does nothing to hide the foul language at an elevated volume.  Yes a certain mentality of British tourist are in town and there here for a good time no matter what culture they invade.  In fairness it’s not just the British showing themselves up, there are other nations out there giving it their best shot also!

There are some respectful ways to behave in Laos. Listed below are some of the pointers posted throughout the country.  Even with these widely available for view there are too many ignorant people not adhering to them. 

Whether or not this side of Vang Vieng appeals to you doesn’t matter too much as a short walk from the less than cultural aspect of town will present you with a plethora of other options all squeezed into a truly majestic part of Laos and a worthwhile stopover between Vientiane and Luang Probang.

What attracts people to Vang Vieng

There are a ton of activities which attract people to the area – caving, rock climbing, mountain biking, kayaking, tubing, swimming, jumping and trekking which are all possible due to the local landscape.

Watch the video below to see jumping at its best.

Take a look at the pictures below for more on the river and the local area.

Really it’s a question of taste and as one person said to me “I should have been here 40 years ago.” It’s obvious the town appeals to a younger more thirsty crowd, but for all its misgivings the area still has a natural charm worth taking a look, just don’t expect to spend too long doing it.

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Prior to my visit, I found myself completely unaware of the horrifying bombardment that took place over Laos between 1965 and 1975.  It was with the help of COPE and their visitor center in Vientiane that the story began to unfold.

With the concern of communism spreading throughout the region and the North Vietnamese funneling massive amounts of war materials down the Ho Chi Minh trail in eastern Laos, America responded with 500,000 bombing missions over Laos. Some of the missions used cluster bombs or ‘bombies’ as they are known locally.  This was a secret war unknown to the American people and a war that left Laos one of the most heavily bombarded countries in the world.

Cluster Bombs

These deadly devices come in a variety of different forms, but they all work in relatively the same way by scattering explosive submunitions over a wide area.  In the example of a large casing dropped from a war plane, there would be enough small bombies to cover an area roughly the size of three football pitches.

Each of the large cases contained up to 680 individual cluster bombs, each with a killing radius of 30 Metres.  The fins on the outside cause the bomb to spin which arms the device.  Upon impact the device explodes sending ball bearings and sharp metal fragments in every direction.

It has been found in testing conditions that around 30% of the bombs do not explode.  This means that out of the 260 Million dropped, there could have been over 80 Million unexploded cluster bombs left after the bombing campaign ended.

The end of the war has not brought an end to the suffering for the people of Laos who continue to die or lose limbs to cluster bombs still littered throughout the landscape.  For rural families, which makes up a majority of the population there are still great risks being taken every day as they walk and dig their lands.  Every year there are new casualties in ever growing numbers from UXO (unexploded ordnance) in Laos even though the conflict ended in 1975.  A part of these growing numbers comes from the higher prices paid for scrap metal and the millions of UXO still lying around which the poor and disadvantaged are tempted to disarm to salvage the scrap metal.  Unfortunately there are also a growing number of child victims as they either attempt to increase family income from the scrap metal or by youngsters simply finding bombies, unaware of what they are and throwing them to each other. 

Hope

The good news is there are a number of organizations committed to help educate the village communities about the dangers of these devices and to bring awareness to the children in the hope of reducing the number of injuries and fatalities. These organizations are also helping to train local people to safely remove or detonate the cluster bombs which are often found buried, submerged or even found off the ground caught up in bamboo growing around them.
For more information, watch the video below.

[youtube:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYZqSK3WV-Y&hl 425 355]

COPE

In Laos the people to see if you need an artificial limb, a limb support device, a walking aid or a wheelchair is COPE (Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise).  There are a total of five rehabilitation centers throughout Laos that are supported by COPE.

COPE provides training and support to local staff to ensure they are suitably equipped to provide mobility devices for free to people who cannot afford to pay.  COPE was established in 1997 as a joint venture between the Ministry of Health and several other organizations concerned with disability in Laos.  Thus far 14 Lao staff have been trained to international standards in prosthetic and orthotic procedures and COPE has introduced inexpensive and robust technology for making and repairing artificial limbs and support devices.

COPE Visitor Centre

With many fliers posted on trees and walls it’s easy to find an advert for the COPE visitor center in Vientiane.  You can find the centre located on Khou Vieng road, about 500 Metres from Talaat Sao Morning Market.

The visitor center is set up with a screening room showing a choice of several on demand documentaries detailing the effects America’s secret war has had on Laos. The walls are lined with photographs depicting the many variations of cluster bombs along with images of families affected by the war.  An interactive exhibit about the UXO problem tells how they affect communities, with stories of injured people and personal accounts through their rehabilitation.  Prosthetic limbs hang from the ceiling alongside cluster bombies made safe.  The centre is both informative and tragic in its need to exist, but it helps to educate others about what happened in the days gone by, what continues to this day and what will continue for many years to come.

The economical growth of Laos is a slow and careful process as developing new land or building new roads is extremely risky due to the magnitude of UXO lying around undetected everywhere.

Visiting the centre really makes you want to help these people and its great to know you can. 

Donations are accepted at the COPE visitor centre

$40 – Average cost of transport, food and accommodation for one patient
$100 – All the medical and logistical costs for an average patient

Purchasing a T-shirt will pass proceeds to COPE or perhaps if you are partial to a cup of coffee then know 6000 Kip per bag goes straight to COPE as part of a pledge by the makers Lao Mountain Coffee.

For more information and how to help – click here to open

Email: cope@laopdr.com web: http://www.copelaos.org find us: http://www.copelaos.org/visitus.html

 For a comprehensive guide to Vientiane, check out the guide produced by Travelfish, it’s cheap, electronic and up to date.

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Running through the natural wonders of southern Laos, the Xe Set River tumbles down a series of waterfalls, making its way from the cooler temperatures on the Bolaven Plateau, to the warm Mekong Valley below. This is why a steady number of tourists continue to visit the area, slowing their pace in the peaceful village of Tat Lo, and I was no exception to the rule.

The rural village is small, dry and dusty keeping its true beauty hidden behind thick forests and thin wooden bungalows. A one lane strip cuts the town in half between basic huts and scattered woodland retreats. Plenty of moderate restaurants line the street selling scrumptious pancakes and Lao coffee for breakfast.

Tat Lo makes a great place to step back and enjoy the scenery with three waterfalls nearby and excellent swimming. The first fall easily seen from the bridge in town is Tat Hang, which takes on an especially beautiful appeal once the flood gates open from the upstream dam. In the morning the fall still captures the eye, but by afternoon when the “waterfall is turned on,” as it had been explained to me, a number of cascades fall across the banks.

If you follow an easy to find path upstream about 700m Tat Lo rages over a 10m drop with a big basin to swim in. The current here is extremely strong near the falls, so good swimmers only in this pool. Though its easy to be fooled by the local children that bounce across the surrounding boulders, dive into the pools and swim across the raging current with grace, they are professionals people!

I would have to say that is the charm of Tat Lo, the beauty of its people. Extremely welcoming this is a place where people still live off the land. Walking several meters past Tat Lo I found rock pools where local women and children bathe. The water is still and easy for children to learn to swim as I discovered while watching one girl use a plastic container as a floating device.

The tourist numbers are low, easing the locals into a new way of life without losing their traditions. There are a few options for trekking tours, an elephant ride through the jungle and a day trip to Tat Suong, a spectacular fall further up the river.

Much of the town is undergoing construction of new guesthouses and huts to accommodate future visitors. Walking to my raised hut I would often hear the sound of a saw or hammers as men brought more trees from the forest in to build. The hut I stayed in resembled that of a traditional Lao hut with a hard bed and nice deck to catch the afternoon breeze. Under our hut chickens scratched and pigs grunted as I believe we had most likely taken up resident in a farmer’s backyard come guesthouse, a true Lao experience no doubt.

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When traveling on your own, often the best places are found by word of mouth or just by getting off the bus at the wrong stop. Using the southern Lao city of Pakse as a transport hub Rich and I headed towards the Bolaven Plateau with a group of independent travelers we’d met along the way. The Bolaven Plateau is known for its numerous waterfalls, varied ethnic groups and fertile soil, enabling successful plantations to flourish, most notably the aromatic Lao coffee.

Our plan was easy enough; each of us grabbed a seat departing for Paksong, letting the bus driver know to drop us at Tad Yuang along the way. It’s known that Tat Fan a spectacular waterfall is well worth anyone’s time, but the accommodation nearby is pricey, then whispers of another place nearby called Tad Yuang filtered through and we set out to see what it was all about.

During the ride up to the plateau I opened my window to let a breeze in for temporary relief from the unbearable heat that caused sweat to drip down my spine. The road slowly climbed in elevation almost unnoticeably without any vantage point to see the valley below. The narrow passage slowly climbed in altitude and when my ears began to pop I was reminded that I would soon be 1000m higher then the Mekong Valley.

About 50 minutes into the journey we were dropped at the side of route 16 in search of
Sihom Sabaidy Guesthouse and homestay. Luckily a colorful yellow and blue sign pointed us in the right direction down a dusty dirt road. The guesthouse was like a large family home with cool tiled floors and a spacious upstairs for guests with several rooms to choose from. It seemed to be run by a very friendly nine year old boy that showed us to our rooms. Rich and I picked a corner room with a window and shared balcony. The rooms are clean and simple in a serene location within walking distance to Tad Yuang falls.

As it was already late in the day and the cooler air energized us, we headed down to view the falls. The walk takes about 15 minutes and there are several food vendors near the river as well as a scenic resort and trails leading to other locations including Tat Fan. At the entrance to Tad Yuang I could hear water thundering over a large drop. Following the walkway we descended down a series of stairs to the lookout spot which puts you in the perfect place to fully appreciate the beauty of this fall. Two washes of water cascade down a tall bank surrounded by lush jungle foliage, surging into a dark pool of fresh water. Looking at the shower of white water, the sky behind us turned a cherry red color completing the masterpiece. After sometime viewing the scenic landscape we headed back to our guesthouse for dinner and decided it would be a good idea to return at dawn for a sunrise visit.

After dinner at the guesthouse everyone was ready for an early night. If only a good nights sleep could have followed! I awoke to something poking my feet, my immediate thought was the house must be haunted, but soon realized there was actually a rats nest under my bed. I could hear scratching beneath our mattress and when I moved or made a noise it would stop. Rich and I grabbed all our belongings and found an open room with no creature under the bed, falling quickly to sleep only to awake at the sound of our alarm clock before dawn.

Hiking at dawn has its advantages, with cool crisp air and calming sounds of morning and the occasional rooster crowing. The road is made of dusty red earth that cuts through a jungle of coffee plantations and native plants. Once we reached Tad Yuang, still as beautiful as the night before we discovered the sun rises from behind the waterfall making it difficult to photograph. From the viewing platform another series of stairs descends to the pool at the bottom of the falls. I poked my toe in and was surprised that the water was actually warmer than the outside air. Though the cool morning air was enough to keep most of the group out of the water one brave member couldn’t resist an early morning swim and dove in.

Once the sun made its way into the sky we headed down an obscure trail towards Tat Fan. The trail is not marked, but through word of mouth we found the trail veering to the right from the public toilets. It was a narrow trail that led to a fork along a more established path. The easy hike was about 45 minutes, sloping down to a river. From there it was just a short distance to a massive drop known as Tat Fan where the water spills down a gorge. For the best views we crossed the river, jumping from one rock to the next where there is an excellent viewing spot shaded by bamboo. From the heart stopping vantage point over the falls I could see the other half of Tat Fan dropping from the curved ledge. The location is completely natural with no manmade viewing platforms or seats, just rocks, grass and surrounding jungle though we actually did not get the best view of Tat Fan, as we were standing at the top of the falls. Another trail near the drop off leads to the other fall. Across the gorge is a resort which would have the best view towards Tat Fan, though I do feel our visit on the unmarked trail to the top of the falls was the most adventures.

Snacking on bananas we trekked up hill back to Tad Yuang where the tourist stands sell food and souvenirs. Here I settled for some hot Lao coffee and an omelet. It was only 11AM by the time we returned to the guesthouse and packed up our belongings with the intention to venture further into the plateau.

Once checked out from the guesthouse, we stood at the side of route 16 and waited for the first option, which happened to be a sawngthaew. Essentially a pickup truck with two long benches in the back that taxi passengers to a series of destinations, it was headed to Paksong, the biggest town on the plateau, so we all jumped in which was a good thing because 5 minutes into the ride the sky opened up. While in Paksong dark clouds encircled the town and we waited for sunny skies to reappear. We got dropped at the market and began the vicious bargaining cycle of chartering a ride to Tat Lo or any of the turning point towns along the way. Eventually we managed to get a ride in the back of a pickup truck to Tha Taeng where buses for Tat Lo depart.

The ride in the back of a pickup through the plateau turned out to be a highlight. As we drove towards dark sky’s the notion that we might get soaked never took away from the joy. Lao people on bikes and trucks waved at us and the cool air tickled the hair on my head as I watched pine trees wave and green pastures sway in the distance.

On arrival in Tha Taeng the heat wrapped its arms around me once again and I realized we were no longer on the plateau. It was late afternoon now and no more buses were available so with our luggage walking down a narrow tarmac road towards Ban Beng I spotted a decent guesthouse for the night.

Greeted by a toothless, though very friendly Lao man the group checked into a couple of spacious rooms for the night. Tha Taeng is not a tourist town by any means and it’s a wonder that a guesthouse or two even exist here, but when you put in perspective that it can take all day to move 35km, then there is a reason for a hotel in every town. At Kay Thong Guesthouse we were treated very well, Beer Lao was provided and when the kitchen could not feed us, a ride on the back of a moped to the market was not too much to ask. One of our friends in the group took on the task and returned before the sun had set with a buffet of Lao cuisine.

The hotel staff set mats on the ground, a candle became the centerpiece and dishes were provided for us to eat from. I thought the food was excellent, with exception to the rice soup al la intestines. We feasted on curried fish soup, sticky rice, fried vegetables, chili liver all of which were exceptionally spicy and fresh melon. As the days prior had been full of so much sightseeing it was nice to tone down the excitement and get to know my new friends, mostly from France and one from Australia. During our dinner lightening flashed while the sky grumbled and beneath the storm I sat cross legged learning about the people met on the road, all on our way to a destination we had not yet encountered.

Travel Guide

If you’re planning a visit to the Bolaven Plateau then don’t leave home without the TravelFish guide to the south.

Coverage includes
The southern Lao provinces of Salavan, Sekong and Attapeu.

Features include

•  12 A4 pages, five maps and over 15,000 words of tightly-packed travel intelligence
•  Over 50 detailed listings for accommodation, restaurants, bars, sights and attractions
• 100% original Travelfish research, supplemented by opinions by Travelfish members
• Detailed transport information
• Bolaven Plateau trip planner
• Comprehensive orientation listings
• A seven-day money-back guarantee - no questions asked*.

Click here for your guide to Remote Southern Laos

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After visiting the beautiful Mekong islands in the south of Lao, Rich and I booked a ticket heading north towards the southern transport hub, Pakse. Since an addition to the World Heritage list was along the way in Champasak, we decided to stop there overnight for a close inspection of Bun Wat Phu ancient ruins. Leaving our Mekong island home of Don Det proved to be a small challenge as bus drivers, ticket agents and passengers were all confused when the boat dropped everyone back on the mainland. People were directed from one bus to another ready to journey on to either Cambodia, Pakse or in our case, Champasak.

Rich and I had purchased a yellow ticket from an internet café on Don Det which seemed to have little perks. Some people were whisked away by VIP buses, or air-conditioned minivans, then there were the four people with yellow tickets waiting patiently in the hot sun for a ride. After a debate between drivers we boarded a small minibus packed with passengers on their way to Pakse and took off. The drive lasted about an hour, before dropping us at the side of the road to be transferred to the rivers edge where you ferry to Chamasak on the other side of the river. The ferry is an interesting bit of machinery. It looks like several large planks of wood topped over a few boats, but it works and it ferries all kinds of vehicles. Midway across we learned our ticket to Champasak doesn’t actually get you across the river, ferry crossing not included. No one told me this!

Once on the other side of the Mekong there are several guesthouses to choose from, but they are really a tuk tuk ride away. Rich and I took a left at the main road and walked much further than we anticipated in the searing heat of the day. There is only one main road through this idle town, once the capitol of the Lao kingdom. Riverfront restaurants make a nice afternoon treat but thats as far as it goes aside from a visit to the ruins. As it was already afternoon we made arrangements to get a tuk tuk over to the ruins first thing in the morning, and relaxed that evening.

Early the next morning our tuk tuk driver dropped us at the visitors center to buy entrance tickets, view ancient relics and read interesting details about the old Ankorian Civilizations related to the site. From there it was an easy walk to the foot of the ruins. Looking out to the site most of the ruins hide behind trees on the hillside, but there are a few at the base to explore. Though, at the base most temples are being preserved and barriers surround, keeping visitors at bay.

The top of Bun Wat Phu looks over the Mekong valley and provides a gratifying view after climbing the series of steep stone stairways. While walking up the steps, fragrant flowing trees shade the path and give the climb a special charm. The main temple at the top is protected by a tin roof detracting from its ancient roots a little, but when I peered inside I understood why. The narrow entrance to the temple opens to a large Buddha, clothed in a golden robe sat comfortably before prayer offerings.

Its worth noting the ruins of Angkor are far more impressive and plentiful, but Bun Wat Phu is nice to visit if you have time. The crumbling ruins date back to the 5th century, and only take about 2 hours to explore combined with the visitor’s center.

Travel Guide

If you’re planning on travelling through Laos consider taking a TravelFish guide with you as they represent excellent value.

The first guide covers Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaow, Muang Ngoi, Pakse, Champasak, Si Phan Don (4,000 islands) and the remote provinces of Salavan, Sekong and Attapeu.

Click here for the Laos combination pack

The second guide covers just Champasak



Champasak

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My first taste of Laos was just across the border from Cambodia. A Mekong experience in itself, Si Phan Don has been making waves on the tourist trail for some time now and still manages to keep its rural charm. Also known as Four Thousand Islands, this network of Mekong islands is a gift to its people with an abundance of fresh water and food to sustain healthy living.

A longtail boat from Ban Nakasang will bring most visitors to Don Det and Don Khon, the most visited islands; the two are connected by an old railway bridge. Don Det has a reputation for being the more popular island for nightlife; however after a four night stay I can tell you that both islands are sleepy.

I stayed on Don Det myself patrolling a few bars after sundown. Most people trickle back to their own bungalows by 10PM, and it was quiet enough to hear crickets.  Every traveler I encountered conveyed a deep sense of pleasure due to the ease they felt at just wandering about this small island village. Most people enjoy tubing down the Mekong on sunny afternoons, or renting bikes to peddle the islands circumference.

Finding good food was the biggest problem. I found the restaurant options to be less than sufficient, with exception to Mama Sayas a small family run restaurant come riverside shack on the sunset side. The food was mouthwatering and always worth the near two hour wait, no joke. Rich and I would enjoy a sunset beer for an hour or so, but not before putting our order in first!

All accommodation is basic on Dot Det, unless you are staying at Little Eden, which looked really nice at 150,000 kip a night ($18). We settled into a little wooden complex with a fallen sign that was unreadable. Rooms were simple with attached bathroom and a spacious veranda that stretched across the front of the entire building. Here Rich and I enjoyed our evenings swaying in one of the many hammocks watching the stars. 

Across from our lodging was a bike rental, for just under $1 a day. Getting a bike from our friendly neighbor was probably the highlight of our visit. After picking out our bikes, by 9AM we were off, in search of an enchanting waterfall we had been told about.

The island is small but on foot would most likely take hours to explore. With such intense heat, gliding along the riverside dirt path was something out of a dream on bicycle. We rode past grazing water buffalo, flowering banana trees, colorful bougainvilleas, and shady coconut palms. Reflections of smaller islands shimmered across the river and finally lead us to the bridge that connects Don Det with Don Khon.

Don Khon is home to an array of small hotels and bungalows, a little more up market than Don Det, thus older people stay here.

Once on Don Khon we peddled towards our destination. Rich would occasionally ask someone to point the way; still we made the journey at a reasonable pace. Shady damp dirt roads lead to dry dusty stretches and with a little faith we finally found our way to the sound of crashing water.

Tat Somphamit is a rush of water, tumbling over jagged black rocks soaking up the suns heat. This is not the swimming section of the Mekong, although by the time we arrived drenched in sweat I did give it a thought. The falls are also known as Li Phi Falls (spirit trap), because the local belief says that bad spirits wash down stream and become trapped. Some people have drowned trying to brave the fierce section of river so no swimming for me here. From the look out area further down stream is a beach with sand so hot you could burn your feet and a sign that advises not to swim because the undercurrent is so dangerous.

When Rich and I were satisfied with our visit we stopped at a refreshment stand for a cold coconut. With a straw placed in the top we sucked down the cool juice and gave the coconuts back to the Lao vendor, a friendly native to the region. She took a machete out and sliced them open for us to eat. Munching on the coconut meat in the shade our new Lao friend took advantage of our visit and began to teach us Lao. Pointing and belting out the words, as the Lao language is very tonal. I will never forget the word for water, “nam” raising her voice above the roaring falls, “nam, nam!” She kept shouting. And I would soon see a lot more nam during my visit to Laos.

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The first thing you should know when crossing over to Laos at Voem Kham is you better be arriving with your Lao visa in hand. Slowly, this border crossing is increasing its traffic with popular Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) nearby; there are still no options for arranging visas on arrival.

From Kratie, Rich and I booked a ticket direct to Don Det, a beautiful Mekong island in Si Phan Don. The price of the ticket seemed too good to be true at $10 per person, with the number of transfers and a boat ride included. After a cup of sweet coffee with our dirty backpacks slung over our shoulders, Rich and I awaited a minivan for the first leg of our journey. On time, at 8:30AM it arrived. A little annoyed Rich remarked that it looked as though someone was moving home. The vehicle had been loaded beyond capacity; the backdoor couldn’t even close with ropes guarding the numerous packages ready to fall, and on the rooftop even more loot. Inside sacks of rice would be foot cushions. We crawled into a tiny corner of the minivan and shuttled to the market, a two minute drive. It was here that we spent the next two hours, so it seemed, cramming more people and more goods inside, leaving no space empty. I then began to wonder how we were ever going to make all our connections all the way to Don Det, on the other side of the border.

Once on the road we picked up a few more passengers and packed several jerry cans of gasoline onto the roof next to our bags.  Locals began lighting up cigarettes in the back seat as the driver finally made way to Stung Treng. Upon arrival we were happy to gather our belongings, change vehicles and head to a snack shop for a drink.  It was then that my shoe broke and a horn sounded the alarm, “Lao border, Lao Border!”

I hobbled over to the van with my soy milk in hand. From the over cramped several hour ride, Rich and I didn’t know what to do with ourselves but smile as we shared a whole minivan with the driver and one other person. Since it only took five minutes to load the van and we had no additional stops the journey to the Lao border was a cinch from here, with the exception of having to wake up our half asleep driver as he drove. Between Stung Treng and the border it seemed like a swift drive.

Once at the border crossing, a bit like a Boy Scout retreat, surrounded by forest, wood cabins, roosters crowing and farm animals wandering about. I have no idea what awaits those who only book transport to the border itself and how you arrange transport to continue onward is a mystery. If you are arriving from Laos, heading to Cambodia then visas on arrival are no problem. But for those traveling like myself, against the major current, anticlockwise through Southeast Asia its all different and Lao visas need to be arranged prior to crossing.

The immigration officials on the Cambodian and Lao side of the border move quickly and efficiently making this an easy and smooth crossing unlike others I have encountered. However with every smooth transaction you make in these parts a “service fee” applies or in this case a “stamp fee.” It’s only a dollar for the Cambodian officials and a dollar for the Lao per person. The money from this fee appears to go straight into the pocket of the officials and you are at their mercy, so don’t complain as some travelers told me the price went up to $4 a stamp when they got irritated.

After crossing the border we connected with our third vehicle of the day before making our way down a dusty road to Ban Nakasang from where we caught a boat across the Mekong to the beautiful river island of Don Det just before sunset. A long day of travel has its rewards.

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Leaving Phom Penh on a GST Express bus by 7:30AM won’t ensure a smooth exit. It was a Tuesday and the city streets were clogged with impatient tuk tuks, noisy motor scooters and honking cars. Ebbing our way through the ridged current of traffic, nearly an hour later the bus was rolling along a narrow tarmac road towards Kratie.

Rich and I decided it was time to venture towards Laos, cutting Vietnam from our itinerary completely due to time constraints on our trip. A few days prior I had skimmed through our guidebook and found Kratie to be a good stopover, about halfway between Phom Penh and the Lao border, Voen Kham.

By late afternoon our bus arrived in the little town of Kratie. Grabbing my backpack from the belly of the bus, Rich and I took a look around. The bus drops you off near the town center alongside the rivers edge, where a meandering walkway shaded with palms lines Kraties doorstep. Across from the bus stand we sauntered into the main tourist area just opposite the market. There are only a few guesthouses down this narrow road, while other hotels options are dotted throughout town. We opted for the second room surveyed at La Belle, a clean, fan cooled room with TV and private bathroom for $4 a night.

On arrival we were greeted with big smiles and offered cold drinks, the only problem, electricity was cut off in the whole town. That meant no water either. In times like these there is nothing to do but relax and wait. La Belle had a nice café with comfy seats to sit and watch the world go by and in Kratie the world is very small.  There is not a lot to do, which is kind of the allure. At sunset along the rivers edge, towns’ people and tourists take a seat to watch the sun sink behind the Mekong, turning deep reds the lower in the sky it falls. 

Tourism is just beginning to make waves in Kratie because of its location on the map and because its been dubbed the best place to view Irrawaddy dolphins, a rare adaptable fresh and salt water dolphin found in South East Asia. The endangered animal is respected by the local people, who consider them to be reincarnated humans according to legend. Sadly the population has dwindled from thousands to less than 100. Gill netting, dynamite and grenade fishing have weakened the numbers year after year, while a large number were killed in the 1970’s by the Khmer Rouge for oil.

Guesthouses can arrange dolphin trips which can be magical, but while some visitors arrive in Kratie in hope of seeing the dolphins, many simply soak up the town by renting a bike, which is exactly what I did.

After a peaceful nights sleep at La Belle, the next morning I rented a bike that came with a big basket on the front to put my day pack and water bottle. At the riverside makeshift dock, boats run passengers between Kratie and the adjacent Mekong River island regularly. With my bike I climbed into the wooden boat and ferried over. Once on the other side, riding along the well established path is a joy as there is little to no traffic.  The island is home to a rural community farming banana, mango, papaya and rice.  Traditional bungalows line the interior and the occupants are especially welcoming. Every child yells hello and everyone you smile at will smile in return.

It takes about two to three hours to explore the entire island and by then I was ready to catch the next boat back to Kratie to take a cold shower.

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Applying for a Laos tourist visa in Phnom Penh proved to be simple and a relatively fast process.

There are numerous guesthouses and ticket shops claiming to be able to have your passport back in hand by the following day for the price they quote.  Usually these services are offered with up to a $5 additional charge on the cost if you were to do it yourself.

After deciding to do it ourselves we jumped onto a Tuk Tuk and headed towards the Laos Embassy about a 10-15 minute journey away.  We figured it was a good opportunity to see some areas of the city as yet unexplored.  Most embassies only accept applications in the mornings so get there before midday.

The usual heavily guarded and imposing nature of some embassies was not present here, instead a smiling and not in the least bit intimidating gate keeper spoke politely asking us to fill in the register of our arrival before pointing to the gate we were to walk through.

Once inside without security check, bag search or usual pat down we headed uncertainly to the nearest unmarked building with a smile on our face at how relaxed and positive the experience had been so far.  Only one other traveler was inside when we got there and only one other joined us so it’s not exactly the most heavily trafficked embassy.  After my experience at the Indian Embassy  it was a blessing.

The sign on the wall informs you that two application forms are needed and three photos to accompany the applications although as we found out when trying our luck handing in just two photos, two are accepted without question!  As well as two completed applications and the photos you will need to obviously present your passport along with the designated fee for the 30day tourist visa.  The fee varies dependant upon your nationality, at the time of writing this article the fee for an American and British national was $40, but its $25 for many others!  Another sign on the wall mentions $50 and $100 notes are not accepted although again we got lucky.

Once your two application forms, two photos, passport and correct fee are handed over you’ll be given a receipt with a date and time to collect your visa.  For us we were told to come back at 4pm in two days time.  We’d hoped it would be ready sooner, but apart from this minor setback the whole process went smoothly with our passports and visas in our hands at the promised date and time.

As it turns out when we got back we found out the price quoted by guesthouses and ticket agents in the Lakeside area where the backpackers hang out is very competitive with only an additional $1 fee added to the amount we’d paid per visa.  When you consider we had to spend an additional $8 on two roundtrip tuk tuk journeys and waited two days for the visas whereas we could have supposedly got it back in one day then it might actually pay to have someone else take care of it for you.  Just remember this is not always the case when it comes to organizing visas as most times it’s cheaper to do it yourself.

Travel Guide 

if You’re planning a visit to Phnom Penh be sure to take the TravelFish guide with you

Features include

• 18 A4 pages, four maps and well over 27,000 words of tightly-packed travel intelligence
• Over 100 detailed listings for accommodation, restaurants, bars, sights and attractions
• 100% original Travelfish research, supplemented by opinions by Travelfish members
• Detailed transport information
• Suggested itineraries
• Comprehensive orientation information
• A seven-day money-back guarantee - no questions asked.

 All this for less than the cost of a night in a Phnom Penh guesthouse! 

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Knowing we were in for a long journey with lots of waiting at the border crossing at Poi Pet between Thailand and Cambodia, we were eager to try out the e-visa option!

It couldn’t be made simpler to apply for and receive your e-visa within a few hours although it is supposed to take up to three business days.

How to apply

The Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation is responsible for initiating e-visa which makes it possible to apply for the Cambodian tourist visa online at this address: http://www.mfaic.gov.kh/e-visa/vindex.aspx

As it states on the website “instead of applying through the Cambodian Embassy, all you need to do is complete the online application form and pay with your credit card.  After receiving your visa through email, print it out and bring it along with your passport when you travel to Cambodia.”

Requirement

You will need a recent passport-size photo in digital format (JPEG or PNG format). We took ours against the background of a guesthouse wall.  The requirements of the photo aren’t very strict so it’s easy to do.  As we had a laptop with us we were able to get online and send the application off with ease.  If you have a digital camera, but no laptop just upload your photo in an internet café which will be just as easy.

At the time of our applying the cost of the e-visa was $20 + $5 (processing charge) and you will need to pay with a valid credit card (Visa/MasterCard/American Express/Discover).

A passport validity of more than six months balance at time of entry.

What you get

Entry Type - Single entry only
Validity - 3 months (starting from the date of issue)
Length of Stay - 30 days

There are a number of entry points into Cambodia that accept e-visa.  Visit the URL above for an up to date list.

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A quickly developed seaside in appearance, Sihanoukville is gaining its fame as Cambodia’s kick back beach resort.  Its got seafood BBQ’s every night, happy hour specials and lots of hotels keeping tourists happy on the fine sandy beaches.

With the quick influx of tourism impoverished locals are finding a means to an end. Some are adults making their own way by offering messages, manicures and fruit to beach dwellers, while others are children either orphaned or sent out by their parents to sell bracelets, fruit and snacks. By doing this they can survive, but the sacrifice involved keeps the viscous cycle going, their missing out on an education and some are working along the beach late into the night becoming easy targets for crime and other offences.

The obvious question is would you let your child wander the streets late at night, seven, eight or ten? Is that safe even in tourist frequented areas? Not really.

When painter Roger Dixon of Ibiza, Spain came to visit Cambodia’s southern coast in 2004 he opened his eyes. At first he sat on the beach like any other tourist, but soon children found him interesting when he began to paint the surrounding scenery. They asked if they could paint and so began the Cambodian Children’s Painting Project (CCPP). Now a registered non-government NGO, non-profit organization children aged 5-15 are given the gift of opportunity. The children come from impoverished families forcing them to make a living early in life, while others are orphaned. All sharing the same needs, many of the children have been collected from Sihanoukville beaches as street children.

The organization aims to give these kids a chance by joining the painting project. With the help of donations and volunteers, children raise money by selling their own paintings at the project. The paintings sell for $4 each, half of the money goes straight back to the children while the other half goes towards CCPP, an organization which covers each child’s cost of school. About 100 children are now enrolled through the CCPP and receive a meeting place to connect with friends and volunteers, materials for the paintings, one meal a day, drinking water, first aid, dental care, and a chance to learn about their own culture through creative arts.

The organization urgently needs donations, if you are interested in helping, visit their website for details on the organization and how to donate. www.artcambodia.org

Travel Guide

If you’re planning to visit Sihanoukville then consider taking the TravelFish guide with you.  As they state “It is the most up-to-date guide to Sihanoukville — on or offline. With this 14-page PDF guide in hand, rest assured you’ll have the most recently researched and written guide available.” Click below to check it out.

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Make your way to the south coast of Cambodia for a little salty sea air and some fine Khmer cuisine. The southern beaches, natural landscapes and wildlife beckon international visitors for a closer inspection, but its a little fruit that put Kampot on the map.

The sleepy town rests where the Teuk Chhou River meets the Gulf of Thailand. Warm ocean waves lap the coastal shores looking back towards Boker Hill.  A slow paced charm is alive here, lined with crumbling shop homes and monuments set amongst greenery, though there is very little to do but relax.  A few elegant riverside hotels mixed in with peaceful budget retreats make it a nice place to call home for the weekend. Visitors can choose from a refurbished colonial mansion, to stilted riverside villas, floating rooms, and concrete bungalows tucked away within manicured gardens.

Aside from a peaceful existence watching the river pass, Kampot offers little to do in town, so it’s best to get out and explore the surrounding area.  A visit to Boker Hill ghost town, the abandoned French resort from the 1920’s, can be arranged as well as cave expeditions, hikes to waterfalls, float down the river or visit a pepper plantation.

When dining in Kampot a saucer of sea salt and fresh ground Kampot pepper usually accompanies a dish. Kampot pepper started to make waves across Asia by the 13th century when Tcheou Ta Kouan, a Chinese explorer, shared his discovery with China. Since then Kampots modern production began by the 1870’s and its pepper has become a favorite amongst famous chefs.

The pepper is grown on an indigenous vine and harvested once a year in early spring. Each plant has a lifetime of about 30 years and takes 3 years of growth before bearing fruits. The vine reaches full potential early in life, about 6-7 years and decreases productivity completely in 15 years.

Once the pepper is harvested, pepper corns are left to dry in the sun for a few days depending on the intended use. All the varying types of pepper are harvested from one plant creating a prized spice; young green pepper, traditional black, mature white pepper, pungent red pepper and the rare bird pepper collected from bird droppings. Every type is sorted, cleaned and dried according to its use. Each pepper draws attention for its unique flavor, some ground fine and others coarse, some best with seafood, red meats and even desserts. This is a spice that’s made it to the dinner table across the globe making it a great product to pick up at the source, if you make it to Cambodia!

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Cambodia’s capitol city, Phnom Penh, is moving into the 21st century. Tourists are welcome, riverside restaurants are busy and boutique shops are popping up. Between the landscaped parks, little shiatsus run rampant while locals casually meander through street traffic to grab a moto driver. As a visitor to Cambodia the city seems like any other capitol, making its way towards a fruitful future with an alluring Royal Palace, international banks and wide city streets. If you rewind just thirty years ago however you would learn about a haunting past that left most of Cambodia’s people with nothing.

It was a genocide that claimed two and a half million people in the space of four years. Between 1975 and 1979 the Khmer Rouge Regime led by Pol Pot, controlled Cambodia forcing the residents from their homes to live in government controlled villages, essentially as slaves. The city of Phnom Penh was lifeless for three and a half years as residents were forced from there homes with only a moments notice. Injured people who could not walk depended on family members to carry them; the less fortunate would have perished in days.

Once at the villages people were forced to burn their clothes, in return they were all given black pajamas. Women and small girls all had their hair cut short; no one could stand out or be unique and everyone was to be treated equal, though this was certainly not the case. People from the city were treated as traitors, while rural villagers or base people as they became called were rewarded for their dedication to living a rural life. Educated people were often executed and anyone that worked for the former government was instantly killed or counting down the days to be killed.

No one was allowed any possessions, as everything was to be shared with the village. Villagers worked long hours in the fields with little to no food. Meals were rationed at such small portions that many victims died of starvation. Those who survived these horrific events were never the same people again. Families were torn apart and children turned into solders, it was a time of constant fear and anxiety that should have NEVER happened. Loung Ung tells a first hand detailed account of her life during the Khmer Rouge Regime as a young child from Phnom Penh in her enduring story, “First They Killed My Father.”

It is a terrible history, but it is part of Cambodia’s history and that of human history. People that learn about this today should know the facts and should know that we cannot turn our backs on those in need.

While in Phnom Penh a visit to the Genocide Museum will help to paint the picture ($2 admission). A tuk tuk from your guesthouse can easily be arranged to take you to the museum and then the Killing Fields Memorial. It is housed in a former primary school that the Khmer Rouge converted to the interrogation office known as S-21.
The building stands today like a haunting reminder of the atrocities, tortures, interrogation, killings and detentions that took place.

Fourteen dead bodies were found here after the fall of the Khmer Rouge, they are now laid to rest in tombs shaded below magnolias at the school. Inside the buildings are several cells, some left much like they were found with a photo hanging on the wall of each corpse that was left to decompose. Some of the cell blocks are left, while some rooms display many photos of the victims who perished at S-21. All the inhuman orders that were carried out by the Khmer Rouge soldiers are documented. 

Upstairs in the last building, you will find some stories of survivors and eyewitness accounts, some finding villagers in good health, while others were found on the brink of death. After visiting the museum which takes nearly two hours, your tuk tuk will take you to the Killing Fields Memorial found a little outside of the city.

The peaceful grounds have meandering paths around the memorial ($2 admission). There are several sunken spots known as mass graves, some marked as execution locations in particular for children and women. Guides are available and very knowledgeable, but if you prefer to take in the sight on your own that is perfectly fine. Most people who visit are quiet, subdued wandering under the shady trees with moist eyes; it is a very sad truth. The large stupa in the center can be entered after taking your shoes off.  Once inside you will be face to face with 8,000 skulls, some cracked, bludgeoned and pierced, but they are all looking back at you. Below is a pile of clothes from some of the last victims killed here.

Visiting the museum and memorial sight takes a half day together. By learning this truth you can help stop atrocities of the future.

The following poem was written by Sarith Pou, a Cambodian attending a poetry workshop while at the Minnesota Correctional facility where he’s serving two life sentences. 

This simple yet moving poem details much of what was eradicated under Democratic Kampuchea.  These are things most take for granted.

THE NEW REGIME - click here for the poem

No religious rituals.
No religious symbols,
No fortune tellers,
No traditional healers,
No paying respect to elders,
No social status, No titles.No education, no training,
No school. No learning,
No books. No library,
No science. No technology.
No pens. No paper.
No Currency. No bartering.
No buying. No selling.
No begging. No giving.
No purses. No wallets.
No human rights. No liberty.
No courts. No judges.
No laws. No attorneys.
No communications.
No public transportation.
No private transportation.
No traveling. No mailing.
No inviting. No visiting.
No faxes. No telephones.
No social gatherings.
No chitchatting.
No jokes. No laughter.
No music. No dancing.
No romance. No flirting.
No fornication. No dating.
No wet dreams. No masturbating.
No naked sleepers.
No bathers.
No nakedness in showers.
No love songs. No love letters.
No affection.
No marrying. No divorcing.
No marital conflicts. No fighting.
No profanity. No cursing.
No shoes. No sandals.
No toothbrushes. No razors.
No combs. No mirrors.
No lotion. No make up.
No long hair. No braids.
No Jewelry.
No soap. No detergent. No shampoo.
No knitting. No embroidering.
No colored clothes, except black.
No styles, except pajamas.
No wine. No palm sap hooch.
No lighters. No cigarettes.
No morning coffee. No afternoon tea.
No snacks. No desserts.
No breakfast (sometimes no dinner).
No mercy. No forgiveness.
No regret. No remorse.
No second chances. No excuses.
No complaints. No grievances.
No help. No favors.
No eyeglasses. No dental treatment.
No vaccines. No medicines.
No hospitals. No doctors.
No disabilities. No social diseases.
No tuberculosis. No leprosy.
No kites. No marbles. No rubber bands.
No cookies. No popsicle. No candy.
No playing. No toys.
No lullabies.
No rest. No vacation.
No holidays. No weekends.
No games. No sports.
No staying up late.
No newspapers.
No radio. No TV.
No drawing. No painting.
No pets. No pictures.
No electricity. No lamp oil.
No clocks. No watches.
No hope. No life.
A third of the people didn’t survive.
The regime died.

If You’re planning a visit to Phnom Penh be sure to take the TravelFish guide with you

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• 18 A4 pages, four maps and well over 27,000 words of tightly-packed travel intelligence
• Over 100 detailed listings for accommodation, restaurants, bars, sights and attractions
• 100% original Travelfish research, supplemented by opinions by Travelfish members
• Detailed transport information
• Suggested itineraries
• Comprehensive orientation information
• A seven-day money-back guarantee - no questions asked*.

All this for less than the cost of a night in a Phnom Penh guesthouse!

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Most, if not all visits to Cambodia include a stop to view the ancient temples of Angkor, ruins of a large ancient city constructed by the Khmers of the Angkorian Empire from the 8th and 13th centuries. The temples are situated in the north eastern portion of Cambodia, 6KM outside Siem Reap, making it the perfect base from which, to explore the temples.

Siem Reap

Siem Reap is fully devoted towards tourism with a healthy nightlife and lots of comfortable hotels to suite every budget. Night markets and day markets have sprung up in the hopes to win custom from tourists passing the time away. With the influx of tourism the city can hardly keep up, busy Sivatha St is like a center divider to the main town center, and its getting a facelift. Modern shop homes, boutiques, hotels, supermarkets and restaurants are lining the street. Constant dust and roadwork keep traffic zooming around alternate roads, but when the work is done a shinny new Siem Reap will be on display.

Accommodation

In the main tourist center you can find plenty of budget accommodation, while the luxury hotels are mostly spread outside the center, midrange comfort hotels are popping up in tourist central. The guesthouse I stayed at was a short walk from the main center keeping it at excellent value for money. If you’re on a tight budget and like efficiently run guesthouses, clean and simple then Jasmine Lodge is perfect for you.

Suggested Three Day

You will have to buy a three day pass for a whopping $40 which seems worth it, but once you add the cost of daily transport into it your Angkor Wat visit is anything but budget. Be prepared. A one day pass is $20. Passes are bought and collected near the entrance at the Angkor Ticket Office. A pass is quickly printed with a digital photo taken of you on the spot. This ticket must be with you at all times when visiting the ruins, and you will be asked to show it to officials on numerous occasions.

It is not recommended sightseeing on foot, even the most energetic will attest. Major ruins cover a vast area leaving a visitor completely exhausted after 3 days and only uncovering a small part of this amazing empire.

Food stands and vendors sell snacks, meals and beverages dotted throughout the sight.

Day one

Enjoy a slow paced visit on bicycle allowing time to fully appreciate this powerful ancient city. Visit Angkor Wat first by crossing the impressive entrance across the moat. The massive three tiered pyramid is the symbol of the nation, and most recognizable. The ruins of Angkor Wat were constructed during the early 12th century. Dedicated to the Hindu God Vishnu, wondering through the buildings and temples will take several hours.

Next continue with your bike down the main road towards Angkor Thom. Entering the south gate you will see the mythical multithreaded cobra serpents of Naga, as the railing for the bridge. The gate itself is depicted with the four Buddha faces of compassion. A photo stop here is a must.

Using a map continue to navigate your way to Ta Phrom. Across from the ruins there are many food stalls making this a great place to stop for a much needed lunch break.

Ta Phrom takes about an hour to explore and was one of my favorite temples.  Smaller in size, this photogenic marvel continues to be reclaimed by nature. Silk cotton and fig trees wrap their roots around the ruins, crumbling walled corridors and cracking roof tops. Originally constructed as a Buddhist monastery, a peaceful atmosphere continues to exist.

After a long day of peddling and exploring head back towards Angkor Wat stopping at any temples that interest you along the way before arriving at Bayon. Bayon is one of the most famous temples of Angkor adorned with the giant faces of Bayon. The ruins will take roughly 2 hours to explore. Once you climb up the ancient stone stairway to the terrace you will walk amongst the spectacular 37 giant face towers. Immensely beautiful in the afternoon hours, Rich fell in love with this ruin.

Now that the sun has begun to sink lower in the sky head back to Angkor Wat for some sunset photos. The stone walls turn a warm red color, making this the ideal time for viewing. Afterwards head back into town for a much needed Angkor beer!

Day two

After a long day one covering the must sees of Angkor have the morning at leisure before heading to the temples by afternoon. Travel by tuk tuk to give your legs a rest with your first visit to Preah Kahn. This temple holds a magical charm with a scenic entrance across a small moat. Crumbling corridors create a meandering walkway though the ruins, while tree roots strangle passageways. A two storey building adjacent to the sight makes an interesting photo, with stone columns erected from the jungle floor. Donations boxes are set up at various locations within the temple along with incense sticks. It is said that wishes for prosperity and happiness are granted to those who pray here.

Further down the shaded roadway in the tuk tuk you will arrive at Ta Som. This small ruin takes about 45 minutes to explore and is a relaxing place to tone down an otherwise vigorous afternoon of sightseeing. From the Bayon face tower that welcomes you to the interesting carvings along the walls, what brings most people this far is the classic photo opportunity at the back end. Here you will find a fig tree, roots woven into the entrance before the brilliant Bayon face tower.

After visiting head back towards Angkor Thom with a visit to the Terrace of the Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper King. Combined the two should take no longer then 40 minutes. Its best to visit the two terraces from the bottom first by walking along the hidden wall at the Terrace of the Leper King to fully appreciate the intricacy of the carvings. Many faces of underworld deities watch you as you walk on by, multithreaded Naga and others who smile and smirk from centuries past. Later climb atop the Terrace of the Elephants for a nice view of the Royal Square.

From here take a short ride to Phnom Bakheng where you can stretch your legs along the wide dirt path. A visit here should take about one hour including the 20 minute walk up hill. After seeing the most famous temples of Angkor, viewing Phnom Bakheng is better appreciated at the end of the day for sunset. Once you have made it to the base of the temple a steep climb of the narrow stairway takes you to a large terrace to view the basin down below. It’s a great time to relax and let your days experience sink in. Return to town after sundown. A zoom lens is essential for photos of Angkor Wat.

Day three

Depending on your level of endurance you may be ready to call it quits and relax, if not and you have a flexible wallet you can journey to Banteay Srey. A ruin well worth the effort about 20KM north of Angkor, the temples of Banteay Srey are known to be the most beautiful. Smaller in size and housing the most intricate of carvings please allow approximately one hour to roam through the ruins.

Next venture further outside Angkor towards Kbal Spean. On arrival you will have to walk along a footpath for about 45 minutes. Once at the sight, above a waterfall in a scenic location, you can view carvings beneath the flowing waters stretching 150 meters along the river bed. Banteay Srey and Kbal Spean close by 3PM.

Transport

Getting around Siem Reap and out to the temples cannot be easier with an abundant amount of tuk tuk drivers waiting to whisk you away, but other options are available. Depending on how far you want to go, a tuk tuk is usually the best option, but if you’re comfortable with it a cheaper way is by moto. Just jump on the back and trust your driver. For a bit more money if you need the time, renting your own moto or vehicle can be arranged although its wise to know the road rules that often only apply to foreigners. You’ll also need a Cambodian driver license if pulled over or face stiff fines. Taxi’s are yet another option for long distances.

My preferred method was bicycle. Bicycles can easily be rented out for the day and as even the busiest roads are littered with them; you won’t feel like the odd one out. Once you get to Angkor Wat, peddling through the ruins offers a chance to appreciate the spread out ancient city at a slower pace, stopping for a minute at one sight and an hour at the next. Just carefully inspect you bike before departing as I had an unfortunate wobble with my handlebars running me off the road onto a sandy track. Luckily a tuk tuk driver came to my rescue. After digging through a bag of tools he hammered it straight, and then tightened the bars all the while chuckling at the state of Cambodian bikes. Jokes aside, renting a bicycle in Cambodia can be for a cause, just look for the white bicycles, profits go towards the local schools. We arranged our ‘white’ bike rental through Jasmine Lodge at $2 per day. For the ultra tourist experience the ruins can be explored by elephant or horseback.

Transport tips

Depending on how long you visit Angkor Wat will determine the best mode of transport. If only one day a tuk tuk will be your best option because the ruins are so spread out and you should keep to the central area. If you have more than one day, mix it up with a bicycle one day, then use a tuk tuk for that sunrise visit the next day. A tuk tuk full day $12-$15 dollars for 2 people and a taxi will cost $20-$25, for distances outside the main temples of Angkor extra fees will apply.

 Travel Guide

Why not leave the Lonely Planet or Rough Guide at home and take the TravelFish guide to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat with you instead.  It’s lighter and cheaper too!

Features include:

• More up-to-date than Lonely Planet, Rough Guides and other guidebooks
• 19 A4 pages, two maps and over 30,000 words of tightly-packed travel intelligence
• Over 100 detailed listings for accommodation, restaurants, bars and sights
• Original Travelfish research, supplemented by opinions by Travelfish users
• Detailed transport information, including step by step planners from Siem Reap to Bangkok and Ko Chang
• Detailed map of Siem Reap
• A seven-day money-back guarantee - no questions asked*.

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From all that we’d read in guidebooks, this journey was supposed to be riddled with scams so we gingerly booked our minibus tickets to the Cambodian border from a stand near the Khao San road.

It’s possible to arrange to be picked up from your guesthouse, so we stood with all our bags street-side at 07:00am with bleary eyes and a cup of tasteless coffee in hand.

Bangkok can get extremely busy during the morning commute, once on our way it took nearly an hour just to get outside the city limits.  From here it was plain sailing on the minibus with only a quick ten minute stop for a fill up of gas and restroom use.  Roughly four hours after leaving Bangkok we pulled into a roadside eatery.

Visas and onward journey

A thirty minute stop was all we were supposed to have, but this turned into an hour as people tucked into lunch and Cambodian Visas were arranged by the minibus drivers for an additional $5 service fee. It was here at the restaurant we opted to purchase our onward bus ticket to Siem Reap from the same company that runs the minibuses at an additional cost of $10 or 350 baht per person.  There are supposed to be local buses available from just across the border, but we decided this would be a better way to do it merely for convenience.

Crossing the border

Five more minutes by minibus and we arrived at the border crossing, complete with our identifiable stickers on our shirts which the company uses to prevent touts from hassling you at the border.  After a few minutes of prep talk about kids who try to hold an umbrella of shade while at the same time trying to pick pocket you and the supposed overcharging in dollars in the country, (something that has not been an issue at all!!) we were ready to get in line to check-out of Thailand.

The check-out process doesn’t take very long although there are certainly long lines.  Make sure you’ve filled out your departure card (which should still be in your passport) before being seen otherwise you will be sent to the back of the line as happened to a few people on the day we were there.

Once through we had to wait ten more minutes for the rest of our group and then we were ushered to the Cambodian immigration which consisted of a much longer queue.  This was really where the extent of the total 2.5hrs was spent getting through the border.  The Thai check-out was a breeze compared to this.  Not only does it get hot with no air-con, but you also have to stand with your backpacks on as you slowly inch forward.  Patience and good conversation are the only weapons you have to make it through this phase of the border crossing.

Catching the bus to Siem Reap

Congratulations, by now you should have made it through the border!  Once across the border all we had to do was show the sticker we were wearing from the minibus company and we were shown to a place to wait for the bus literally 20ft from the border crossing.  Another ten minutes later, we boarded our bus.  These buses are free government buses which transport you to the bus station upon where you will be put onto the actual bus destined for Siem Reap.  After around fifteen minutes the bus arrived at the bus station and we were told to get off and wait to be called to our main bus.  By this time we were feeling a little bit like cattle being herded from one place to another, but if you just follow the instructions and stop thinking about being scammed all the time then it’s a relatively organized affair albeit a long one. Its worth mentioning the exchange rates at the bus station are atrocious so don’t bother, just arrive in Cambodia armed with lots if US dollars and your fine.

The road to Siem Reap starts out paved for the first 30-40km, but shortly into the journey the tarmac road disappears into merely dust and potholes.  We’re told by the local guy running the bus that we’re the lucky ones as a few years ago there wasn’t any tarmac on this stretch of road.  I’m pleased to say there is continued work along its length to change that, but for us it was a bouncy, jostling and dusty trip in an uncomfortable old bus.

One more stop before reaching Siem Reap enabled us to order some overpriced food with a portion fit for a gerbil.  It’s probably wise to eat a proper lunch at the stop just before the border crossing and bring snacks and lots of water with you so you don’t look ravenous as I did when turning up at the stop in Cambodia.

Another hour and a half later the bus pulled off the road next to the Siem Reap hospital just outside of town.  This was a little shock to all of us as we were expecting to be dropped at the bus station.  There were some annoyed looks from several people on our bus who were now faced with having to get a tuk tuk into town.  The cost for our tuk tuk turned out to be $3 which doesn’t sound like a lot, but this is Cambodia!!

Arriving at Jasmine lodge was a welcome site after a total of twelve hours traveling from Bangkok.  We booked the Jasmine via email, but upon our arrival we were informed they don’t confirm email bookings from people traveling from Bangkok to Siem Reap as there are so many people who never show up due to what they called “kidnapping”.  This is to be interpreted as one of those bus scams where bus passengers coming direct from Bangkok spend hours and hours and hours to get to Siem Reap arriving normally extremely late into the evening.  When they get to Siem Reap they are then taken to alternative guesthouses knowing the passengers are ready to collapse after an exhausting day.  We counted ourselves lucky to make it through without being caught up in one of those scams.

Many travelers expressed a fear of being scammed during the course of our journey to Cambodia. The bus scams, according to the Lonely Planet guidebook, usually occur when you book a direct ticket from Bangkok to Siem Reap, but with that being said we’ve since heard from a few travelers who booked this way who had no problems. It may seem a little like the luck of the draw but just don’t let the guidebooks deter you as it is certainly very possible to do this with little to no problems at all.  Just be prepared for a very long and tiring journey no matter what happens along the way.

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The first time we heard about Phranang Beach was by a fellow traveler, the description of how to get there from Ton Sai was enough to tempt us let alone the beauty we’d meet upon our arrival.

Getting to Phranang from Ton Sai

Part of what makes this journey interesting is the fact there are two possible ways to walk to Phranang depending on the tide.  At high tide it’s an adventure through the jungle on the pathway cut up and down through the hills, steep and full of lose gravel at times. It’s a fun way to get between Ton Sai and Hat Railay, from there an easy five minute walk will get you to Phranang beach.  The alternative fun and unusual way is only possible at low tide in Ton Sai, but is worth the wait.  At these times, vast areas of dead coral and rock appear along the uncovered coastline which allows you to make your way along the extended beach and over the rocks in order to get to the next beach, West Railay.  From here it’s a simple case of walking along the beach, past the colorful longboats and then the path that leads to East Railay.  Follow the signs along the path with some small caves and you arrive at Phranang Beach.

Eager climbers trying to navigate their way up the rocks are the first thing you’ll see, but passing them brings you more fully onto the beach.  Local food sellers are set up on the beach with cold drinks, corn on the cob, pineapples, chicken and a plethora of other snacks to tempt at a price that is negotiable!  As well as these vendors, further along the beach Pad Thai and other noodle dishes are sold out of longboats.

The rocks overhanging the beach give this place a special feel and provide adequate shade for those less accustomed to the heat.  The rocks are of varying color shades, standing out at jagged angles, drawing the admiring onlooker nearer for a closer look.  At low tide it’s possible to walk onto a section of beach normally covered.  This allows easy access to rocks you can climb over and around and through, something very worthwhile.  Crystal clear warm water gently caresses the beach, needle fish dart and dance left and right as swimmers cool off from the hot Thai sun.  An old Chinese sailboat sitting in the water waiting for passengers, kayakers navigating their way around rocks paddle past and a hum of distant longboats ferrying their passengers to neighboring beaches are some of the sights you’ll see here.

A fertility cave can be found on this beach with strange phallic objects made of wood scattered around a central shrine.  I didn’t stay long, as who knows whether its effects reward all visitors! 

Twice a day at around midday and 5pm, monkeys appear in the trees overhanging the beach.  They are here for bananas and have become accustomed to people holding out their hands to offer these tasty treats.  I bought a few from the food vendors and within no time at all an outstretched arm from a monkey appeared as he hung upside down from a swaying branch.  With delicate fingers the monkey gently took the piece of banana from me.  Watching them clamber around the trees was a real treat.   

At the end of a long day on the beach there’s still something fun to do.  With it still being low tide it’s possible to walk to the rocky outcrop that sits about 150metres from the shore.  As normally this would be under the ocean at high tide it’s an interesting walk around.  Small pools of water are all that’s left of the ocean, crabs scurry around beneath the shallows.  A tide eroded line is clearly visible on the side of the rocks and some have even been carved into strange mushroom shapes.

This beach won my heart and made it tough to leave.  There’s so much to do for those that like to swim, climb, explore, kayak, sunbathe and lets not forget, feed monkeys!

Tips - Click for details

If opting to walk the beach route over the rocks then ensure you have flip flops or trainers as the rocks are sharp in places.
Remember the monkeys are wild so be careful if deciding to feed them.

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If you walk the little marked path between Railay Bay and Ton Sai early in the morning you may hear gibbons howling from the trees or see monkeys swinging from branch to branch. In Ton Sai the rugged beach leaves a fine line of sand between the forested valley and the dramatic cliffs, making this beach only accessible by boat or foot. It’s a majestic hideaway for rock climbers, beckoning savvy travelers for a little taste of the legend. 

Accommodation 

As it’s the rock climbing that attracts most to begin with Rich and I hadn’t given the place much thought. When we arrived one afternoon completely beat and by mere fluke, we fell in love quickly. Most accommodation is budget with few amenities but there is talk of an upscale resort making its way to the beach, however there are a few mid range options nestled in little nooks. We settled in at the Andaman Nature Resort, a great budget resort with bungalows comprised of paper thin walls, wooden frames and tiled bathrooms. There is an excellent restaurant for breakfast time.

Our bungalow was one of the cheaper ones which seemed to have missed its appointment for a revamp about 5 years ago, but we found it charming. Electricity was generated in the evening and our place came complete with one double bed, mosquito net, fan and bathroom (cold water only) plus a modest balcony for lazy afternoons.  Our main concern was the broken front door that seemed to jam shut everyday. Then there was the daily early morning raid of empty palm nut husks falling onto the tin roof which made such a racquet we thought it was time to run for the cover of another bungalow on several occasions. Rich was certain cheeky squirrels were the culprits.

Bars and Restaurants

In the evening the beach lights up with fire dancers, bars and restaurants serving up very good Thai food and some western options as well as sundown happy hour specials. Just kick back at Freedom Bar for a Chang and watch the youthful men and women climb along the cliff side like spider people. Many of the bars are equipped with balancing ropes tied between two palm trees. Here over confident rock climbers test their luck after a few beers, amazingly many aren’t bad, but the bar tenders are the ones to really show off. It makes great entertainment. As the community is small here the locals are friendly, tourists keep returning year after year.

Most restaurants serve generous portions of Thai food from $2-$5, and a few sell pizza and pasta as well as seafood BBQ’s. Our favorite restaurant located on the left at the end of the dirt road heading to the beach had the best food at the best price and always filled up by 7:30PM. There are also a few roadside vendors selling excellent BBQ chicken and mango with sticky rice topped with coconut dressing (Rich’s favorite).
Ton Sai Beach

To look at the beach its dramatic beauty is that of dreams with the steep limestone cliffs hugging the bay bronzed in the afternoon sunset, milky jade waters and coconut palms a plenty. Strangely enough it’s not really much of a swimming beach. Lava rock and fossilized coral are exposed every afternoon when the tide goes out, and it goes out very far. It’s possible to swim early in the day before the ocean waters recede, but once reclaimed by the low tide the beach is great to wander across to see the ocean floor basking in the hot southern Thai sun.

Stuff to do and tips - Click here for details

For the less advanced, rock climbing courses are available with safety gear for rent. Most rock climbers bring there own gear though and help replace rusty bolts with new ones on the cliffs where needed.
Sea kayaks can be rented on the beach.
Snorkeling and island tours can be booked as well as onward travel from Ton Sai.
A boat from Ao Nang to Ton Sai is the most convenient way to arrive.
Hike to Phranang Beach, one of Thailand’s most beautiful!
Just relax, you’ve found paradise.

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From Hat Yai we booked a minivan to Krabi, getting us one step closer to paradise. Along the wide stretch of highway I noticed a flash of green as coconut palms, grasslands and distant limestone formations blurred into one outside my window. Our driver sped ahead of every other vehicle on the road so I should have known he was a bad seed from his over confident driving skills and the unfortunate chance I caught him passing an open bottle of rum to another driver at a rest stop. After dropping all the passengers off in various places along the route he took the two foreign tourists, Rich and I to a travel agent in Krabi town. From Krabi our plan was to hop a long tail boat to Railay Bay, a scenic arch of land jutting out from mainland Thailand, only accessible by boat.

At the travel agents another foreign couple was herded with us to a table full of hotel brochures and tours. As we both declined their help to book anything, we were then offered an overpriced share taxi to the pier to catch our boat. This would be with the same driver in the same minivan we took from Hat Yai! I just couldn’t be a sucker as we both believed the minivan should have dropped us there in the first place. Instead Rich and I wandered through town with our heavy packs looking for the pier ourselves, just long enough to drench our clothes with sweat and become irritated, “alright let’s get a cab!” I had to finally suggest.

From Krabi town we quickly grew tired of the common reluctance of drivers explaining a boat from Krabi to East Railay was unlikely to be an option and we should pay to go a little further to Nammao Bay where boats leave often. With a shrug of the shoulders Rich and I jumped in the back of a pick up and took the 20 minute journey to Nammao Bay. Enjoying the breeze our bodies felt cool, it was nice to take off the heavy packs and relax along the way. Once at the bay we literally had to run to our boat ready to depart. I paid the driver, purchased boat tickets and rolled my pant legs up to my knees. The tide was already making its way out leaving an exposed muddy mangrove to trek across to our awaiting boat. Anchored next to one large rock we climbed in the front while the boatman prepared for departure.

Riding along the crest of waves my face felt the warm reflection from the vast aqua blue sea. The ocean spray cooled me as my eyes trailed off to the many distant islands. I couldn’t help but think about my first trip to Thailand 8 years before, it felt good to return to such a beautiful country. Our boat was headed to East Railay, a mangrove bay I had never been to before. The draw for us was the postcard beach only a ten minutes walk from the bay.

The boat ride took about 10 minutes. On arrival we waded with our belongings through the swampy sea to the shore ready to find a comfy home. The hotels were clustered along the bayside set before a mangrove and neighboring construction of a new hotel. Our hope was to find an affordable room and walk to the pristine beach during our stay. To our surprise the guidebook was out of date, rooms had not only doubled in price but some tripled!

From the bay we followed signs advertising the cheapest place to stay, further from the shore we trekked with our packs. This day of travel seemed to deal one dilemma to the next. By the time we reached the last bungalows in town we started to consider going back to Krabi. All the budget rooms were either taken or in one case closed for refurbishment. Rich and I both slumped ourselves down in the shade and took a long gulp from our water bottles. It was then that I saw a wooden sign laying on the ground that read, Ton Sai Beach. A few young guys walked by heading towards Ton Sai and I just had to ask them about this place. They explained it was a bit of a walk, but budget accommodation was available. Rich turned to me, grabbed his pack and began to walk the trail. We climbed along a winding path through lush woods and one very steep incline. Midway we stopped for a break, plopped down on the trail huffing, carrying several kilos on my back in 100% humidity and 80+ degrees can be challenging. Other people skipped through the woods past us, I was hoping someone would offer to help but to no avail we continued and carried our own weight.

Once in Ton Sai pure exhaustion followed close behind and we were ready to pay almost any price. Luckily for us dozens of wooden bungalows were clustered onto the hillside between trees and along the wide path. Simple budget resorts, bars and restaurants dotted the surrounding woodland giving Rich and I a good reason to smile. We booked the first available simple bungalow, took cold showers and headed out for a well deserved bottle of Chang and some pad Thai!

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A very good reminder why we need to defend freedom of speech: 

Please share this article with as many as you can. The original source is here: Lasantha Wicremantunge’s last editorial.
Hjörtur.

No other profession calls on its practitioners to lay down their lives for their art save the armed forces and, in Sri Lanka, journalism. In the course of the past few years, the independent media have increasingly come under attack. Electronic and print-media institutions have been burnt, bombed, sealed and coerced. Countless journalists have been harassed, threatened and killed. It has been my honour to belong to all those categories and now especially the last.
I have been in the business of journalism a good long time. Indeed, 2009 will be The Sunday Leader’s 15th year. Many things have changed in Sri Lanka during that time, and it does not need me to tell you that the greater part of that change has been for the worse. We find ourselves in the midst of a civil war ruthlessly prosecuted by protagonists whose bloodlust knows no bounds. Terror, whether perpetrated by terrorists or the state, has become the order of the day. Indeed, murder has become the primary tool whereby the state seeks to control the organs of liberty. Today it is the journalists, tomorrow it will be the judges. For neither group have the risks ever been higher or the stakes lower.
Why then do we do it? I often wonder that. After all, I too am a husband, and the father of three wonderful children. I too have responsibilities and obligations that transcend my profession, be it the law or journalism. Is it worth the risk? Many people tell me it is not. Friends tell me to revert to the bar, and goodness knows it offers a better and safer livelihood. Others, including political leaders on both sides, have at various times sought to induce me to take to politics, going so far as to offer me ministries of my choice. Diplomats, recognising the risk journalists face in Sri Lanka, have offered me safe passage and the right of residence in their countries. Whatever else I may have been stuck for, I have not been stuck for choice.
But there is a calling that is yet above high office, fame, lucre and security. It is the call of conscience.
The Sunday Leader has been a controversial newspaper because we say it like we see it: whether it be a spade, a thief or a murderer, we call it by that name. We do not hide behind euphemism. The investigative articles we print are supported by documentary evidence thanks to the public-spiritedness of citizens who at great risk to themselves pass on this material to us. We have exposed scandal after scandal, and never once in these 15 years has anyone proved us wrong or successfully prosecuted us.
The free media serve as a mirror in which the public can see itself sans mascara and styling gel. From us you learn the state of your nation, and especially its management by the people you elected to give your children a better future. Sometimes the image you see in that mirror is not a pleasant one. But while you may grumble in the privacy of your armchair, the journalists who hold the mirror up to you do so publicly and at great risk to themselves. That is our calling, and we do not shirk it.
Every newspaper has its angle, and we do not hide the fact that we have ours. Our commitment is to see Sri Lanka as a transparent, secular, liberal democracy. Think about those words, for they each has profound meaning. Transparent because government must be openly accountable to the people and never abuse their trust. Secular because in a multi-ethnic and multi-cultural society such as ours, secularism offers the only common ground by which we might all be united. Liberal because we recognise that all human beings are created different, and we need to accept others for what they are and not what we would like them to be. And democratic… well, if you need me to explain why that is important, you’d best stop buying this paper.
The Sunday Leader has never sought safety by unquestioningly articulating the majority view. Let’s face it, that is the way to sell newspapers. On the contrary, as our opinion pieces over the years amply demonstrate, we often voice ideas that many people find distasteful. For example,  we have consistently espoused the view that while separatist terrorism must be eradicated, it is more important to address the root causes of terrorism, and urged government to view Sri Lanka’s ethnic strife in the context of history and not through the telescope of terrorism. We have also agitated against state terrorism in the so-called war against terror, and made no secret of our horror that Sri Lanka is the only country in the world routinely to bomb its own citizens. For these views we have been labelled traitors, and if this be treachery, we wear that label proudly.
Many people suspect that The Sunday Leader has a political agenda: it does not. If we appear more critical of the government than of the opposition it is only because we believe that - pray excuse cricketing argot - there is no point in bowling to the fielding side. Remember that for the few years of our existence in which the UNP was in office, we proved to be the biggest thorn in its flesh, exposing excess and corruption wherever it occurred. Indeed, the steady stream of embarrassing expos‚s we published may well have served to precipitate the downfall of that government.
Neither should our distaste for the war be interpreted to mean that we support the Tigers. The LTTE are among the most ruthless and bloodthirsty organisations ever to have infested the planet. There is no gainsaying that it must be eradicated. But to do so by violating the rights of Tamil citizens, bombing and shooting them mercilessly, is not only wrong but shames the Sinhalese, whose claim to be custodians of the dhamma is forever called into question by this savagery, much of which is unknown to the public because of censorship.
What is more, a military occupation of the country’s north and east will require the Tamil people of those regions to live eternally as second-class citizens, deprived of all self respect. Do not imagine that you can placate them by showering “development” and “reconstruction” on them in the post-war era. The wounds of war will scar them forever, and you will also have an even more bitter and hateful Diaspora to contend with. A problem amenable to a political solution will thus become a festering wound that will yield strife for all eternity. If I seem angry and frustrated, it is only because most of my countrymen - and all of the government - cannot see this writing so plainly on the wall.
It is well known that I was on two occasions brutally assaulted, while on another my house was sprayed with machine-gun fire. Despite the government’s sanctimonious assurances, there was never a serious police inquiry into the perpetrators of these attacks, and the attackers were never apprehended. In all these cases, I have reason to believe the attacks were inspired by the government. When finally I am killed, it will be the government that kills me.
The irony in this is that, unknown to most of the public, Mahinda and I have been friends for more than a quarter century. Indeed, I suspect that I am one of the few people remaining who routinely addresses him by his first name and uses the familiar Sinhala address oya when talking to him. Although I do not attend the meetings he periodically holds for newspaper editors, hardly a month passes when we do not meet, privately or with a few close friends present, late at night at President’s House. There we swap yarns, discuss politics and joke about the good old days. A few remarks to him would therefore be in order here.
Mahinda, when you finally fought your way to the SLFP presidential nomination in 2005, nowhere were you welcomed more warmly than in this column. Indeed, we broke with a decade of tradition by referring to you throughout by your first name. So well known were your commitments to human rights and liberal values that we ushered you in like a breath of fresh air. Then, through an act of folly, you got yourself involved in the Helping Hambantota scandal. It was after a lot of soul-searching that we broke the story, at the same time urging you to return the money. By the time you did so several weeks later, a great blow had been struck to your reputation. It is one you are still trying to live down.
You have told me yourself that you were not greedy for the presidency. You did not have to hanker after it: it fell into your lap. You have told me that your sons are your greatest joy, and that you love spending time with them, leaving your brothers to operate the machinery of state. Now, it is clear to all who will see that that machinery has operated so well that my sons and daughter do not themselves have a father.
In the wake of my death I know you will make all the usual sanctimonious noises and call upon the police to hold a swift and thorough inquiry. But like all the inquiries you have ordered in the past, nothing will come of this one, too. For truth be told, we both know who will be behind my death, but dare not call his name. Not just my life, but yours too, depends on it.
Sadly, for all the dreams you had for our country in your younger days, in just three years you have reduced it to rubble. In the name of patriotism you have trampled on human rights, nurtured unbridled corruption and squandered public money like no other President before you. Indeed, your conduct has been like a small child suddenly let loose in a toyshop. That analogy is perhaps inapt because no child could have caused so much blood to be spilled on this land as you have, or trampled on the rights of its citizens as you do. Although you are now so drunk with power that you cannot see it, you will come to regret your sons having so rich an inheritance of blood. It can only bring tragedy. As for me, it is with a clear conscience that I go to meet my Maker. I wish, when your time finally comes, you could do the same. I wish.
As for me, I have the satisfaction of knowing that I walked tall and bowed to no man. And I have not travelled this journey alone. Fellow journalists in other branches of the media walked with me: most of them are now dead, imprisoned without trial or exiled in far-off lands. Others walk in the shadow of death that your Presidency has cast on the freedoms for which you once fought so hard. You will never be allowed to forget that my death took place under your watch. As anguished as I know you will be, I also know that you will have no choice but to protect my killers: you will see to it that the guilty one is never convicted. You have no choice. I feel sorry for you, and Shiranthi will have a long time to spend on her knees when next she goes for Confession for it is not just her owns sins which she must confess, but those of her extended family that keeps you in office.
As for the readers of The Sunday Leader, what can I say but Thank You for supporting our mission. We have espoused unpopular causes, stood up for those too feeble to stand up for themselves, locked horns with the high and mighty so swollen with power that they have forgotten their roots, exposed corruption and the waste of your hard-earned tax rupees, and made sure that whatever the propaganda of the day, you were allowed to hear a contrary view. For this I - and my family - have now paid the price that I have long known I will one day have to pay. I am - and have always been - ready for that. I have done nothing to prevent this outcome: no security, no precautions. I want my murderer to know that I am not a coward like he is, hiding behind human shields while condemning thousands of innocents to death. What am I among so many? It has long been written that my life would be taken, and by whom. All that remains to be written is when.
That The Sunday Leader will continue fighting the good fight, too, is written. For I did not fight this fight alone. Many more of us have to be - and will be - killed before The Leader is laid to rest. I hope my assassination will be seen not as a defeat of freedom but an inspiration for those who survive to step up their efforts. Indeed, I hope that it will help galvanise forces that will usher in a new era of human liberty in our beloved motherland. I also hope it will open the eyes of your President to the fact that however many are slaughtered in the name of patriotism, the human spirit will endure and flourish. Not all the Rajapakses combined can kill that.
People often ask me why I take such risks and tell me it is a matter of time before I am bumped off. Of course I know that: it is inevitable. But if we do not speak out now, there will be no one left to speak for those who cannot, whether they be ethnic minorities, the disadvantaged or the persecuted. An example that has inspired me throughout my career in journalism has been that of the German theologian, Martin Niemöller. In his youth he was an anti-Semite and an admirer of  Hitler. As Nazism took hold in Germany, however, he saw Nazism for what it was: it was not just the Jews Hitler sought to extirpate, it was just about anyone with an alternate point of view. Niemöller spoke out, and for his trouble was incarcerated in the Sachsenhausen and Dachau concentration camps from 1937 to 1945, and very nearly executed. While incarcerated, Niemöller wrote a poem that, from the first time I read it in my teenage years, stuck hauntingly in my mind:
First they came for the Jews
            and I did not speak out because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for the Communists
            and I did not speak out because I was not a Communist.
Then they came for the trade unionists
            and I did not speak out because I was not a trade unionist.
Then they came for me
            and there was no one left to speak out for me.
If you remember nothing else, remember this: The Leader is there for you, be you Sinhalese, Tamil, Muslim, low-caste, homosexual, dissident or disabled. Its staff will fight on, unbowed and unafraid, with the courage to which you have become accustomed. Do not take that commitment for granted.  Let there be no doubt that whatever sacrifices we journalists make, they are not made for our own glory or enrichment: they are made for you. Whether you deserve their sacrifice is another matter. As for me, God knows I tried.

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Traveling across the border between Malaysia and Thailand seems to be in a state of flux as to whether it is safe or not. Guidebooks such as Lonely Planet warn of recent dangers between separatist Buddhists and Muslims that have started violent attacks along the Northern Malaysian border and Southern Thai border. Some attacks have proceeded to affect passengers on trains and buses making the journey questionable for travelers.

I have learned during the course of several overseas journeys that the best way to assess if a questionable border crossing is safe or not is to check locally or with your Embassy. As there were no travel warnings during my visit to Malaysia, Rich and I decided to travel across land rather than arranging a flight into Thailand and traveling by land is our preferred method of travel.

From the rail station in Butterworth, Malaysia we purchased an unreserved seat to the Thai border. Unreserved tickets are not available for purchase until within an hour before departure. Reserved tickets to Hat Yai Thailand can be booked and are about four times more expensive, these tickets should be booked in advance.

On arrival to the Thai border, which was about five hours into the journey, we had to go through immigration check points on the Malaysian and Thai side. Checking out and checking in! Unfortunately for us the thirty days on arrival in Thailand had recently been reduced to fifteen days when traveling across land, something we were not expecting. After getting a stamp for fifteen days in Thailand we bought our onward ticket to Hat Yai, the nearest transport hub in Southern Thailand. From the Thai border Hat Yai is another hour. 

Rail was our method of travel because we were under the impression it is faster then the bus. Now that I have traveled by train I think the bus may be the better option. Direct buses can be booked with bus companies in Malaysia at reasonable prices making the journey comfortable and efficient. Book with bus companies directly to be assured your bus will take you to the final destination you have paid to arrive at. 
Tips for transport

• Unreserved tickets are least expensive if you choose to travel by rail. You can sit anywhere on the train if the seat is free! I would not recommend this ticket during peak holiday seasons as you may be left standing. Butterworth to Thai border RM10 ($2.70);
• Thai border to Hat Yai 272B ($8). The easiest train to catch departs at 2:20PM heading towards Bangkok. There is an early train departing at 5:15AM, which was not possible for us staying in Penang due to the ferry service not beginning till 5:30AM.
• There are food stall selling snacks and beverages at the Thai border rail station, they accept Thai Baht and Malaysian Ringgit.

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Stroll along the streets of Georgetown and it won’t be long before you begin to notice crumbling heritage shop homes, ornate Chinese temples and a lot of traffic. The densely constructed city of Georgetown was named after Britain’s King George the III. Nestled upon a lush tropical bed the city resides on the island of Penang to the west of peninsular Malaysia.

Founded by the British in 1786, much of Georgetown’s architecture tells a story. From colonial era mansions, Fort Cornwallis trading post, Victoria Clock Tower to the handful of Christian Cathedrals amongst numerous temples and mosques, these heritage buildings speak of other times. The British occupied the island for 171 years and with most of the islands population of Chinese origin there is a smattering of old European charm bled into the cultures of the Orient, ethnic Malay and Indians.

As for the architecture one notable building caught my attention. Listed as a World Heritage site, the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion or better known as the Blue Mansion is a great place to step back in time and learn a little about this islands history. Visiting the mansion is not possible without taking a tour or checking in as a hotel guest as the mansion now doubles as a boutique hotel.  Tours run twice daily at 11:00am and 3:00pm for RM12 per person (about $3.50).

The Blue Mansion is easy to find using a city map, located just off Leith Street near Upper Penang Road. Once inside the gates after purchasing my voucher to join the regular tour I was ushered through a lavish wooden doorway. In the foyer the sun’s rays swept across the spacious tiled floor while the hum of several fans mixed with the chatter of newly acquainted tourists.

From here our guide clearly (in English) explained that the tour would last one hour and that all visitors stay together, as not to disturb any of the hotel guests.  Over the next hour my guided visit told the tale of this elegant 38 room mansion, which houses 5 courtyards, 7 staircases and 220 windows. Sadly only a small percentage of the home was viewed and photographs inside were not permitted unless you are a hotel guest. That said I felt the tour was still worth my time.

Cheong Fatt Tze, who the mansion is named after, became known as the Rockefeller of the east in his later years. Born in China as a simple villager he knew that there would never be a way for him to acquire the wealth he desired. Relocating first to Indonesia, just south of Malaysia, here he began the climb of great wealth becoming a successful business man of riches in the 19th century. Cheong Fatt Tze chose Penang as his ideal base and home to raise his sons. The mansion is a fine example of Chinese architecture using craftsmanship from the Su Chow dynasty from 3,000 years ago. Accented with Gothic louvered windows and imported Scottish cast iron works the home is harmoniously balanced with the Feng Shui factor which utilizes natural resources such as air, light and water to its advantage.

Perhaps on my next visit to Penang I’ll find residence for a night or two in one of the 38 rooms of this cultural charmer and snap a few shots inside!

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A place that caught my eye on the tourist map detailing sights on Penang was Snake Temple.  Knowing my wife’s respect of snakes from a distance and my own curiosity at what a snake temple could really be, we opted to pay a visit.

Getting there

It wasn’t hard to find although most bus drivers when you ask for a ticket to snake temple tell you to get the U104 bus.  Don’t pay this much attention as there are several buses which will get you close.  Sadly there aren’t any directions to it from where these other buses drop you off.  We were lucky enough to have a driver who drew a comprehensive map on his hand to show us how to find it. As always it’s easy when you know how.  As for the U104 we never did see one going in our direction. It may be best to ask your hotel for further details on local buses to the temple depending on your location in Penang.

Snake Temple

As you walk up the stone steps towards the Snake Temple you can see how much work has gone into making it highly decorative while at the same time keeping it simple and uncluttered.  The smell of incense permeates the air giving way to a sense of calm.  It is from here you take your first step inside the Snake Temple.

The temple honors the Buddhist monk Chor Soo Kong, who had healing powers.  It is strongly believed the monk provided shelter to the snakes as the surrounding landscape became more and more developed.  Once the building of the temple had been completed in 1850, the snakes moved in permanently.
 

Are those snakes real?

Strangely the snakes aren’t noticed at first, but after a few moments of taking in the interior of the temple, their presence is felt!  A note to tourists states “All snakes are live snakes, but visitors are requested to not touch.”  The sign goes on to warn tourists not to harm the snakes by prodding them and then reminds tourists they are venomous viper snakes.  Around the temple there are numerous statues and shrines which are all covered with perspex.  Each of these then have small round holes drilled to allow the snakes to climb through and hang out in the shrine.  Others are draped over wooden sticks around the inside of the temple.

The jury is still out for me on whether or not these snakes are actually real. During my whole time spent in the temple not one of these so called snakes moved.  Considering there were at least thirty of these beautifully colored viper snakes on display it occurred to me that surely at least one would open their eyes.  Perhaps the truth is more likely they are excellent replicas of beautifully colored viper snakes!

 Apart from mulling over the question of the snakes legitimacy you can walk around the adjacent snake farm for a fee to see the real deal.  There are a number of places to eat or buy a rubber snake souvenir nearby, but apart from that, jumping on the bus somewhere else is all that’s left.

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Get hold of a tourist map in Penang and it won’t be long before you notice Penang Hill marked somewhere towards the middle.

Penang Hill started out as a place for the wealthy European elite to reside, a place at 800m, somewhat cooler and less humid than the rest of Penang below. From the top you can see the Penang coastline, with the view stretching all the way to mainland Malaysia and beyond.  It’s certainly breathtaking and well worth the journey up whether it be on the train or by adventurous three hour hike.  The views are reportedly extra special at sunset when the lights of distant buildings in Georgetown start to illuminate the darkening sky.

Getting there

From Georgetown where we were staying, it’s possible to get a local bus to Air Itam which is nearby or directly to Penang Hill.  If you get a bus to Air Itam it’s a ten to fifteen minute walk to the station and there aren’t really any sign posts so it might be better to catch the U204 bus directly to Penang Hill.

Buying your train ticket to the top

If you don’t want to spend three hours hiking up to the top (trail head starts at Moon Gate in the Botanical Gardens) then you’ll want to purchase a ticket to the funicular railway.  The ticket agent sells round trip tickets for RM4 at the station.  The seats for each train sell out quickly so you may find yourself waiting for a few hours before your allotted train departs.  As there’s not much to do while you wait at the station apart from eating lunch you might want to consider using the few hours to visit the Kek Lok Si Temple in nearby Air Itam.  You can easily walk to what is the largest Buddhist temple in Malaysia.  It’s impressive structure can be seen sprawling across the hill nearby.

The journey to the top

It only takes a few minutes for the maximum eighty people to board the train at the bottom of the hill.  There are only a few seats, with the rest of us standing clinging onto anything to keep our balance.  The doors close and we slowly inch our way out of the cover of the station as we start our ascent to what I thought was the top.  Curiously I wondered whether there was only one train as only one set of tracks would make it impossible for another car to pass.  It didn’t take long for me to find out there’s a section of track further up which allows the cars to pass each other.

Let me be clear when I say this is no journey for those with a fear of heights as you are being cabled up what seems like an impossibly steep incline railway with views of Penang below you dropping away.  It’s an adventure though and apart from the cheesy music emitted from the speakers, quite enjoyable.

To get to the top means getting out of one cable car and boarding another at the half way point, then continuing the rest of the way to the top. It’s all perfectly orchestrated so you simply get out of one cable car and the other is waiting for you.  The entire journey takes about thirty minutes.

Apart from the view at the top you’ll find well maintained gardens, restaurant, food kiosks, highly decorated Hindu temple, mosque and hotel.  With all these things however we only spent thirty minutes at the top as it seemed all we needed.

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If you’re planning a trip to Cameron Highlands you must have one thing on your mind, tea.

There are several tea plantations in the Cameron Highlands which are owned and run by different companies.  The easiest to visit without a guide or tour however is the Sungai Palas Boh Tea Estate.

Getting There – Click for details

From the bus station in Tanah Rata its possible to pick up a local bus for RM 2.50 which will drop you at the start of the road leading down to the plantation. The distance is marked here at 2km even though it feels more like 2 or 3 miles. The buses from town are supposed to run frequently, although you could quite easily change this to infrequently and nobody would disagree.

Walking to the plantation from the road detailed in the getting there section above offers the best opportunity and vantage point for photographs.  Get there early and you will not be disappointed.  As it rains so frequently in the afternoon you stand a better chance of getting out the camera in the morning.

The walk starts off fairly flat at first before descending gently downwards.  A canopy of lush tropical plants, banana trees, vines and tall grasses block the view from the road at first before making way to allow you the first view of the valley below.  Seeing the expansiveness of a tea plantation is something to behold.  The bright green color of the tops of the tea bushes are in stark contrast to the older dark green leaves underneath, giving an appearance of light and shadow at first glance.  There’s tea as far as the eye can see, painted with a velvet brush across the entire landscape.  It’s a beautiful tea lover’s paradise.  There is something quite peaceful and calming about walking next to so many future cups of tea even with the stream of cars making their way to the plantation.

The plantation

Walk through the entrance and you will be instantly aware of the busy tea making going on in the café as lines of people queue to be rewarded with their cup of the local brew.  Try to get a table at the far end of the café and you’ll be able to enjoy sipping on your tea with a panoramic view of the bushes the leaves were picked from.  If there are no tables available here, you can still grab a few pictures as we did on our visit.

It’s possible to arrange a tour of the plantation with a guide at a cost that seemed too expensive for our taste.  It does take in more than the quick 5-10 minute free tour we took of the factory so perhaps for some it might seem worth it.  The free tour will take you past several machines and a description of the different processes the tea goes through before being packaged.  These processes include withering, rolling, fermentation, drying, sorting, tea tasting and storage.

The Boh story

In 1929 J.A Russell purchased some land at 500ft above sea level and worked to transform it into Malaysia’s first tee garden which became known as Boh.  There are now four plantations which boast an impressive size of 1,200 hectares and more impressively together these plantations produce 4 million kgs of tea which goes on to serve 5.5 million cup of tea each and every day.

It was nice to walk to the plantation, but walking back wasn’t as much fun.  This wasn’t because of having to climb the hill back for most of the way, instead it was due to the long line of cars gridlocked on the road and the choking exhaust fumes we were forced to breathe the entire time.  I’m not sure what this does to the taste of the tea, but it sure does compete with my old favorite Tetley.

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Getting to Pangkor Island

I found Pangkor Island a tempting treat after two weeks in Kuala Lumpur. The island is advertised as a relaxing getaway, one main road loops around the circumference and it’s conveniently located a half day from Malaysia’s capital city, but as usual travel days take longer than anticipated.

According to my guidebook the best way to get to the island from KL is to catch a direct bus to Lumut. From there it’s a piece of cake to grab the next ferry to the island as the bus station is next door to the port. Too bad Rich and I discovered we were on the wrong bus half way to Ipoh, but as many people say, the universe has a plan.  We happened to be approaching the best town for such a mistake. Ipoh is a transport hub and a great one for those on their way to Pangkor.

The next bus to Lumut departed shortly after my arrival to the Medan Gopeng bus station in Ioph. Two hours later, with little hassle we skipped over to the pier and caught the next departing ferry. Ferries to Pangkor are more frequent then stated and leave when full. (RM10 return)

Once on the island after the 30 minute trip across the water I hailed a pink taxi. As they can seat 8 people comfortably and have a set price of 12RM. I asked the driver to grab a few more passengers heading to Teluk Nipah to share the cost, which turned out to be no problem at all.

Teluk Nipah

Here budget accommodation congregates on the west side of the island, which supports a row of beach shacks selling lots of Malay snacks and a bright assortment of beach attire, minus the bikinis. The beach is popular with Malaysian families taking boat trips to the outlaying islands and around Pangkor. Many beach goers cover themselves from head to ankle, including some men as they splash around in the sea. This made me feel a little under dressed in a bikini, so its worth wearing swim shorts and a t-shirt on the main beach.

Pangkor is a beautiful place, but as most people will attest it’s a simple beauty when compared to Malaysia’s east coast islands, although its beauty grows stronger during your stay. Beige colored sand blankets the beach down to the green sea water. In the afternoon brave monkeys make their way to the garbage bins near the beach grabbing plastic bags in search of fried bananas and other goodies.

Accommodation

During my visit I stayed at the Ombak Inn, probably one of the best places to stay for your ringgit. The owners are extremely polite and welcoming, which adds to the inviting first glance of lush landscaped gardens that surround the bungalows. A buffet breakfast is included and the on-site restaurant is romantic in the evening when the ferry lights are on. My room at Ombak Inn was dark and I can’t say cheerful with the itchy bed sheets, and inadequate bathroom.  In spite of this I was comfy and appreciated the air-conditioning at night. There’s a TV in most rooms with movie channels on all the time. Its worth noting hotels and guest homes are slightly over priced for what you get, but then again walk down the road ten minutes to the next beach and you’ll want to stay longer.

Coral Beach has fine sand taking on a creamy white shade, trees encroach giving a welcome relief from the sun and the water is a bay of shimmering emeralds, clear and hot! Its not a crowded beach, there are no stalls selling anything, just one over priced café and a few people willing to beach it in bikinis. So Pangkor turned out to be a relaxing getaway as advertised.

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Eating and drinking can be a boring experience if faced with European budget travel.  It seems eating out on the cheap usually consists of unexciting salads that comprise of lettuce, tomato, endless cucumber and goat cheese!  Let us not forget the wonders of campsite food which can only be considered exciting at the first can of tuna added to the limited food choices when cooking on a tiny flame that might be your last.

Yes for those who’ve traveled through Europe on a tight budget or have camped their way, you’ll know what I mean about the bland or repetitive food choices. Thankfully as we left Europe for Asia, we left those limitations behind.

Arriving in Malaysia was to be the start of months of eating Asian food and enabling me to be as adventurous as my stomach would allow!

As with many countries around the world, mealtime is a highly sociable experience. Here in Malaysia it comes with a fusion of three main influences, Chinese, Indian and Malay.

In Malaysia there’s food to suit any budget with main meals being served with a smile from street vendors for as little as RM1.50 to average restaurants selling dishes from RM4 to RM18.  It’s worth looking around as there are so many choices of places to eat with differing hygiene levels, although don’t let the grimier places put you off as these often serve up the tastiest food and it’s where you’ll find most locals.

Breakfast

One of the best breakfasts and one I’ve admittedly become addicted to is Nasi Lemak.  It’s typically served in a folded banana leaf and upon opening you’ll find a neatly piled portion of coconut rice with peanuts, fried anchovies, cucumber, egg and spicy red sauce. It’s a perfect amount for breakfast and tastes divine.  This is one reason I don’t want to leave Malaysia!

Most venues only serve it in the morning so get out of bed and make sure you don’t miss out.  There are other similar dishes which go by the name Nasi this or Nasi that, but it’s Nasi Lemak which satisfies the most.  You can pick one up for RM 1.50 at most street stalls or for RM4 to RM7 at restaurants.

Lunch or Dinner

There is a plethora of options from spicy whole fish dishes to the many variations of noodles accompanied by meat, fish or vegetables, all served in a choice of Chinese, Thai or Malay styles.  Mee Goreng (fried noodles) or Nasi Goreng (fried rice) is widely available and is a cheap alternative to the more pricey culinary delights.

Indian food is easy to find with many inexpensive Indian restaurants dotted around every town.  The food is authentic and the smell of the spices will undoubtedly lure you inside for a taste.

Whilst staying on the Island of Penang we found the most wonderful Dim Sum restaurant.  It’s always packed with 99.9% locals, a real gem and a must if you’re in Georgetown.  Ladies pushing trolleys full of steaming dumplings and stuffed buns entice you to pick something and will then cut it up with scissors and drop it onto your table. 

Address – Click for details

Tai Tong Restoran, 45 Lebuh Cintra, 10100 Penang

Something sweet

Malaysia hasn’t struck me as a nation with a particularly sweet tooth unlike India where sweets abound, but there is one treat that looks disgusting until you try it.  I’m talking about Ais Kacang, an ideal way to cool down on those hot and humid days which luckily is every day!

At first glance it looks like nothing more than a snow-cone.  Get a little closer and you’ll notice the multi colored shaved ice sat atop a bed of sweet corn, kidney beans, peanuts and jellies.  All this is then topped with syrups and condensed milk.  Don’t let the corn or kidney beans turn you off or you’ll be missing out on a popular treat in Malaysia.

Malaysia has such a variation in food there’s always something that catches the eye giving you plenty of flavors to pick from.  It’s possible to eat extremely cheap here when compared to many parts of the world, although portions may costs a little more than places like India and Thailand.

I give Malaysia two thumbs up! Go on, give it a try.

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If you’re looking to get out of Kuala Lumpur for part of the day then consider the Batu Caves which can be found 13km northwest of the city. Nestled against lush tropical hills, the series of three caves are guarded by a giant 43m high Murga statue which is respectfully given the title of tallest in the world.  Stand next to it and you’ll agree! 

Getting there

Catch the number 11 bus from Chinatown next to Bangkok Bank, sit back and enjoy the forty-five minute ride at a reasonable cost of RM 2.  Ask the driver to let you know when you get to your stop.  Once off the bus it’s easy to find the caves, just look out for the highly decorated Hindu sculpture over the main entrance.

The caves

The caves, considered to be a leading Hindu shrine, are the scene of an annual festival called Thaipusam held at the end of January or early February.  During just three days, well over a million worshippers visit the caves. Many carry out acts of penance to fulfill their vows made to the deity, Lord Muruga.  Worshippers leave with pierced cheeks or tongues, often done with the Kavadi, a decorated wire used to penetrate the skin. 

The most prestigious of these caves and the one where the festival takes place is the Temple Cave.  It can be reached with an ascent of 272 steps, a nice workout for the calves! It’s a surprise to find the roof of this particular cave is 100m high as the view from the outside doesn’t give you the sense it would be that big.  Long stalactites hang down throughout the cave, dripping refreshing water upon those needing to cool off from the intense humidity. 

The cave is light enough not to need a flashlight and there’s no clambering over rocks in this particular cave, but you might want to wear flip flops as there’s quite a lot of puddle water inside.  Once you reach the back of the cave, there’s one more set of stairs to climb and then you stand before an ornate, colorful, Hindu shrine.  Small butter candles are alight, the air is still and people are quiet, well most of the time! I’ve been told by others who visited, “the monkeys will get you if you eat food.” Try not to be the one who rustles a bag or takes a bite out of some tempting food or you may not make it out of there!  On our visit sadly there was no sign of them.  This area of the cave is almost circular as you cast your eyes upwards to the daylight opening high above you.  Trees and foliage lean precariously over the edge above, other plants and trees grow in places that seem impossible, constantly being fed dripping water from the dark jagged limestone rocks.

There are other caves here, but these are run by organized trips and will mean donning a hard hat.  For us we were satisfied with the temple cave, a quick wander over to the Koi carp pond and to taste some of the Indian sweets on sale by the street vendors.

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If there was one thing I wanted to do while in Kuala Lumpur it was to get up the Petronas Towers.

The Petronas Towers

Something of an icon and visible from many vantage points in the city, the Petronas Towers once stood as the world’s tallest buildings until regrettably surpassed by the Tapei 101 building in 2004.  Even the Tapei 101 won’t hold the title for much longer as the Burj Dubai although still under construction as of Dec 2008 has already passed the Tapei 101.  That being said, under height rulings the building can’t be officially named the tallest until it’s in a ready to be fully occupied state.  That is expected to be in September 2009.

The more recently built behemoths however cannot take away from the sheer magnificence of the Petronas Towers which are still listed as the tallest twin towers in the world.  Designed by an Argentinean architect Cesar Pelli, the construction of the towers was completed in 1998.  The towers stand upon 120 meter deep foundations with their 88 floors built with a huge amount of reinforced concrete due to the limited availability of steel and the reinforced high strength concrete reducing sway.  The exterior façade is made of steel and glass with an Islamic slant to reflect the countries Muslim religion.

The Skybridge

The Petronas towers feature a Skybridge connecting the two towers together.  Situated on the 41st floor at a dizzying height of 170m above the ground and 58m long, the Skybridge holds the record as the highest two storey bridge in the world.  It’s to this Skybridge many visitors flock.

How to obtain free tickets to the Skybridge

Tickets to the Skybridge are free, but there are a limited amount of 1700 tickets available per day (closed Mondays).  In order to obtain your free ticket(s) you need to be prepared to arrive at the towers early in the morning as we did to pick up ours.  As you enter the tower there’s an escalator which you need to take down.  This brings you to a small area which serves as the location to collect your tickets as well as the entrance to the Skybridge, just follow the signs that point the way.  We arrived at 08:00am and faced a large queue of people waiting already.  It’s up to you when you want to get your tickets, but early may be the way to avoid disappointment.

The doors open at 08:30am and once you get to the ticket desk you are allowed to book a time for that day.  Bear in mind there’s a limited number of people allowed up at a time so your time slot might already be taken.   We opted for 10:30am, took our tickets and headed for the nearest coffee house so Megan could wake up properly!!

The Skybridge experience

As instructed, we arrived ten minutes prior to our allotted time and were promptly given a yellow corded badge to wear around our necks while being ushered into a small cinema room.  Unsurprisingly we were shown a seven minute film which introduces the viewer to the Petronas company and it’s endeavors.  A great opportunity for free PR, but with free skybridge tickets in hand I could hardly complain.

The elevator propels you up to the 41st floor at an ear popping speed of five meters per second during which the elevator guide informs of what is to happen in a well rehearsed and timed speech that ends exactly as we reach the Skybridge level.

Ten minutes is all the time allowed, but this is really all that you will need or want.  Stepping out onto the walkway is pretty neat as the view from both sides of the Skybridge appears in front of you.  I realized this was something I’ve wanted to do for a long time and now here I am looking out over the tops of buildings and down at the park below.  We made sure to walk to the other side of the Skybridge so we knew we’d been along the whole length.  For those with a fear of heights, this one might be worth missing, but it is a special experience so try to be daring!

For those with a love of shopping, you’ll want to visit the Suria KLCC centre located below the Petronas towers.  Complete with twelve screen cinema and six floors of indulgent shopping. The 1.5 million sq. ft shopping complex is home to a majority of luxury, designer labeled shops along with numerous cafes and a Science Discovery Centre.  We managed to keep hands in pockets and just browse as our trip around the world could have been seriously cut short at these prices.  Exit at the back of the mall and you will be in for a treat.  Here you will find a park area with wading pools and fountain which lights up at night.  A place many come to relax and socialize with friends.

Images used - Click here for details

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After our red-eye flight with the comfortable Jet Airways carrier, we landed on the tarmac at the modern Kuala Lumpur International airport by 08:30am. After exiting the plane the first thing I came across was the free internet stations and with me being me, I couldn’t resist!  The airport is extremely clean, airy and light.  The design inside and out has obviously had a lot of thought put into it to not only make it an efficient, modern airport, but also one that’s aesthetically pleasing.

Immigration was a pleasant experience; the smiling officer offered no intimidation, no strange penetrating stares and no guilt searching questions. Could this be a sign of the friendliness of the Malaysian population? Once my passport had been stamped my next task was baggage claim. To be reunited with your luggage will mean jumping aboard a driverless monorail which hurls you along a track and dumps you out in another building a few moments later.  It’s all efficiently run and before too long our bags were winding their way towards us.

Getting to the city

There are numerous ways to get to the city as outlined below in the expandable section. For those on a tight budget find your way over to the KLIA bus terminal located in block C on the ground floor of the covered car park.  You can reach this with an easy walk from inside the airport, although you may need to ask for directions.  The guys working the tickets can be found at the bottom of the escalators, they are friendly, polite and make sure you get on your bus with a “hurry, hurry, bus leaving now.”  The cost for the 1hr air conditioned bus was a mere RM10.  This also included a free transfer from the city center by mini van to the heart of China Town.  Make sure you keep your original ticket; otherwise you will need to pay again.

Transport to the city – Click for details

KLIA express – These run every twenty minutes and take approximately thirty minutes to get you to the Kuala Lumpur air terminal inside the KL Sentral train station. This will cost you RM 35 one way and is the second most expensive method behind getting a taxi which will set you back about RM60. The good news about the taxi is that it runs on a fixed fare although you will need to purchase a taxi coupon from the arrivals area which you use to pay the driver. The remaining method is the airport coaches which cost around RM20 and operate every half hour.

The roads from the airport to the city center are in good condition, with multi lanes on the highways.  This was a welcome relief from the unpredictable and often dangerous crumbling concrete and dirt roads of Nepal and India.  The driver seemed calm, followed the highway code and possessed no signs of suicidal impatience.  Even the horn was left untouched.  It was perhaps the quietest and most uneventful ride I’d taken for over two months.  It enabled me to enjoy the view without thinking it would be my last.  The outlying area of KL is very green with tropical plants, vines and palm trees everywhere.  Giant billboards advertise Hotels, resort complexes, airlines, telecommunication firms and the Malaysian Tourist Board’s adverts beckon you to their pristine beaches.  In the distance, but getting nearer all the time I could see a plethora of tall skyscrapers dotting the horizon.  With a relatively comprehensive public transport system that includes an underground metro, monorail, variety of different buses and several one way systems in place, it came as a surprise to find there are numerous hot spots around KL that permanently overflow with traffic.  It’s a problem that needs to be addressed, but how it can be done I’ll leave to the city planners.  The traffic didn’t delay us for too long, but nonetheless we were by now ready to find our hostel and curl up for a well earned few hours sleep!

Serai Inn

Our hostel, the Serai Inn which can be booked as we did through the accommodation page on our website is not the easiest to find, located on the 2nd floor of Klinik Setia city building, a few streets from bustling China Town and Little India.  Don’t let its hard to find status deter you however as the warm welcome upon arrival more than made up for the time spent looking for it.  The staff was always friendly and professional taking great care to ensure our stay was comfortable, relaxed and enjoyable. 

The hostel is very clean and has numerous room options from shared dormitory, family room and private room with twin or double bed.  All rooms come with air-con and the shared bathrooms on each floor are clean and complete with 24hr hot water.  There’s even toilet paper and soap most of the time! 

The included breakfast isn’t anything special, but then how many hostels have you stayed at which offer a memorable breakfast?  At least there’s tea, coffee and toast with butter and jam.  Lockers are available with a refundable key deposit for those in a shared dorm and a security key card is needed for entry to the building.  The best part for me though had to be the free wifi everywhere in the hostel and I mean everywhere.  Believe me I tested this and can confidently vouch that it’s possible to check email and blog from the showers and bathrooms! 

As mentioned earlier, the hostels location once found is in a very good position within a five minute walk to China Town and Little India as well as metro station and bus station.  There’s also a very convenient bank with ATM across the street.

First Impressions

Stepping out of the air conditioned sanctuary of the hostel you’ll be instantly met with the humidity outside which can make you feel wet quite quickly.  At least most places run air conditioning and I’m sure escaping the humidity is why lots of people head to the central shopping area of Bintang Walk.  It’s here you’ll find a myriad of different multi-floored shopping malls which offer everything to suit the budget conscious to those with money to burn in the luxury designer shops.  The main reason for me to visit the malls was for the many food courts found in each of these malls.  The food choices are all very tempting, the smell of spices caught on the air drawing you nearer and before you know it money has been exchanged and you have a pair of chop sticks in your hand.

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After spending five weeks traversing Rajasthan, enjoying the myriad of sights, sounds, colors, food, its people and a couple of bouts of the usual stomach issues associated with Indian travel it was time for us to leave.

Getting to Delhi

Our longest train journey yet took us from Jaisalmer to Delhi in a total of about 19hrs.  Booking a 3AC seat seemed the most logical and comfortable for the price.  Westerners are usually grouped together in these seats and we were fortunate enough to share our journey with a polite French couple that neither smelt nor snored!  Well these are things you hope for when spending 19hrs in close proximity with others.  All that considered we were still exhausted upon arrival in Delhi, but having somewhere booked to stay should have made the next step easy!  Well if there’s one thing I’ve learnt about being in India it’s that nothing is ever easy, straightforward, efficient, on time or without some level of bartering or awareness needed to prevent you from being ripped off.  Our rickshaw driver was no exception to this set of rules.  Our driver spoke little to no English, but enough hand gestures and flagging other rickshaw drivers down to talk to them confirmed to us he had no idea where our guesthouse was located.  After many wrong turns, dead ends and wandering around we finally made it to our guesthouse after an hour, a journey that should have only taken 20mins.  Tired and in need of the usual shower, food and sleep after a long journey we checked into our guesthouse.

Delhi’s Paharganj

Located in the heart of Paharganj within walking distance from the New Delhi railway station and tucked down a side alley, Ajay was to be our home for a few nights.  The rooms were clean although we had to change rooms as ours had just been painted and the smell was overwhelming.  There’s a nice restaurant and if you’re a smoker you’ll be in your element with a persistent fog of smoke lingering on the air.  The bakery has some nice pastries and the food on the menu is excellent and good value for money.  With our room being near the stairs this did make it noisy so think about this if you plan to stay at Ajay.

The ramshackle streets of Paharganj have an appearance like other tourist hubs in India with it’s crumbling old buildings home to leather and textiles, English bookshops willing to sell or trade, hippie clothes and cheap on street eateries.  Its main bazaar area can certainly cater to all your tourist needs. The prices are reasonable, well that’s if you’ve become a bartering connoisseur, otherwise you will be fleeced for all your worth!  If you have a flight out of India towards home or another destination it’s probably worth waiting to make purchases until you get to Delhi. Prices are not as high as I thought they would be in a big city. After all who really wants to carry extra items in their backpack unless you have to?

Bangkok Airport

With the terror attacks in Mumbai whilst we were in Jaisalmer and after hearing about the protestors in Bangkok controlling the airport it felt like the walls were closing in on us.  We were going to need to visit the Jet Airways branch in Delhi because we were due to fly to Bangkok on the 4th December.  Jet Airways handled us with compassion; informing us they could refund our ticket, reschedule or fly us to Singapore or Kuala Lumpur for no additional cost.  After some deliberation and comparing prices with other airlines we opted to change our ticket to Kuala Lumpur.  This meant flying from Delhi to Chennai in the south of India and then catching a connecting flight to Kuala Lumpur which would add several hours to our journey.  I’ve wanted to visit Thailand since the age of 21 so I could hardly believe my luck to get this close and then have to divert to Malaysia.

Leaving India

On the day of our flight out of India we read the news and discovered that a new terrorist plot was supposedly taking shape according to intelligence reports.  This time the plot was to consist of hijacking and blowing up a commercial airliner from Delhi, Chennai or Mumbai, between the 4th and 7th December.  Two of these airports we were due to use during this time period.  This made us feel nervous but we decided to go ahead and take our flights.

Arriving at Delhi we were met with evidence of the heightened security measures in place, but it offered little real comfort to us.  We spent a few nervous hours at the airport before boarding our plane for the 2hrs 50min flight to Chennai.  For the first half of the flight I felt uncomfortable, especially after looking at the complimentary in flight newspaper which also reported the terrorist plot.  I don’t wish however for this to take away from the quality of Jet Airways as an airline to which I was extremely impressed.  After flying continental for so many of my usual flights I didn’t realize how much better it can be.  Considering we were flying economy it really didn’t feel like it.  The leg room was twice that of a continental flight.  The excellent food is chosen from a menu and served on real plates not crappy plastic trays (at last a company thinking about the environment) along with proper cutlery.  Free wine and spirits were offered and each seat comes equipped with its own television showing a choice of several movies on demand and other shows.

The airport security at Chennai seemed even more heightened than at Delhi with many personnel walking around with machine guns, while others peered out from behind sand bagged barricades outside the entrance.  Tickets and ID were checked, checked and checked again.  All in all I was pleased when we touched down safely in Kuala Lumpur.

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A trip to Rajasthan wouldn’t be complete without a camel back trip into the Thar Desert. Giant sand dunes, long legged humpback beasts and rich colored sunsets were to orchestrate my memorable experience; the only problem was picking which company to take me.

Rich wanted his own camel, mountainous sand dunes and a few other people to share the experience with, rather then just me…understandable. I on the other hand wanted to book a trip with a tour operator that could dish out what they claimed. I wanted to enjoy my camel safari without worrying if there was enough water to drink or if I would be freeze during the night, I wanted organization.

After arriving in Jaisalmer as the new kids on the block, Rich and I were hounded for business. All the hotels and guesthouses want you to stay with them and insist there is no pressure to take their camel safari as they ALL offer them.

The Hotel Saga

Our first night in Jaisalmer was spent at the Artist Hotel. Highly recommend by the Rough Guide, which had proved to recommend good places. Rich and I were met at the city bus station by many touts causing confusion. A crowd of men and children were stuffing hotel brochures in our faces pushing us to their awaiting rickshaws. When I claimed I was staying at the Artist Hotel a man and small boy insisted we go with them. I snapped and asked the most persistent man that claimed he was sent to pick us up to phone the hotel and confirm my name, as I did have a reservation and did not want to fall victim to a scam. Fumbling through numbers on his cell phone the rickshaw driver phoned and then called to me, “you are Nagen.” A giggle lightened the mood of the crowd and Rich and I were whisked away to the hotel.

I actually liked the Artist Hotel and didn’t mind the inside joke on my new name Nagen, which means something along the lines of cobra goddess and caused a giggle every time the waiter approached me, “Nagen” he repeated. I’m sure it went well since the drivers first encounter with me had been a bit surly, although understandably under the situation. The problem I had with the Artist Hotel was the unavoidable sewer smell that permeated through my tiny room; we had to move the next morning.

We took up residence at The Peaock, another hotel just five minutes from the Artist towards bustling Gandhi Chowk. Our room, for only a dollar more than the Artist was immaculate, and there was no sewer smell. Shining tiles covered the spacious floor; a TV set was situated in the far corner of the room, a large bed and elegant chocolate sofa, who could ask for more? We booked a few nights on the promise there would be no pressure to take a camel safari with their hotel.

Rich and I decided to look around, ask about prices and talk to people before deciding on which tour operator we would take a safari with, in the end we decided on Sahara Travel, a trusted tour operator. Mr Desert the face of Rajasthan had been running the company for about 20 years and in his words promised a, “non-touristic” safari.

Our plan was to keep the room at the Peacock during our overnight excursion, this way our luggage would be safe and we could be ensured a beautiful room on return. On the morning of departure we stepped out of our room in trekking shoes, with overnight bags in hand. Crossing the dining area the hotel manager caught us in his view and called to Rich asking about our plans for the day. Rich and I felt there would be no reason to lie and told the truth, that we would be returning the next morning, yes we were departing on a camel safari. We were abruptly told at that moment that we must check out, pack our bags and leave. This was at 8.30 in the morning when we were due to be at Sahara Travel by 9AM for departure to the desert.

Getting thrown out of your hotel for such a reason is infuriating, but part of the business in Jaisalmer. We packed our bags with rapid speed and flew down Bhatia Bazaar to Gopa Chowk. It was 9AM when we arrived, ready. Mr Desert assured us he would watch our bags and we left with the notion that out in the desert it was our time and to just let go of the tense emotions growing inside.

Camel Safari

Rich and I were joined by seven other tourists from Bangalore, a southern Indian city. They were all men and all eager for a good time.   We all piled into the jeep for a ride out into the depths of the Thar Desert. Along the way we stopped at the ghost village of Kuldara. The village was one of 84 that had been abandoned on the same night, mysteriously in 1825. This was a nice ice breaker for the group as we took turns photographing one another before piling back into the jeep. We shuttled to a shady location where the camels were waiting. Their legs were curled beneath them patiently waiting. I was instructed to slip my leg over the padded saddle and gently balance my weight onto the animal. Once onto the seat my guide asked the camel to rise with a grunt. After the entire group had been comfortably balanced, all camels standing we were ready to begin our journey.

The heat of the day had already begun to sizzle on the horizon and beat down into the back of my neck. I covered myself with a scarf and wore a long sleeved white top to protect my skin. Our caravan milled along a trail making a couple of stops before night fall. The camels most of the time followed one another nose to tail, but occasionally mine would dive for an afternoon snack munching upon every tall bush or tree we passed. I finally learned to hold the reins with some sort of tension to keep him in check. The reins are tied to a bolt led through their nostrils, which seemed harsh to me if it was the other way around, but that is the way camels are bridled. With only a little tension I had control and by the end of the day we trotted towards a magnificent sand dune rising out of the desert garden.

Of the two stops we made, one was a quick visit to a nearby village and the other a very long lunch break where the guides laid out plush blankets under the shade of a tree, prepared chai and curried vegetables. While some guides attended to the tourists, others attended to the camels. One by one the animals were given lunch and completely unsaddled. Their sweaty backs had a chance to breath beneath the little available shade, but most of the camels chose to feed on the surrounding brush under direct rays of the sun.

We had arrived at camp before sunset. The guides gestured towards the immense mountain of sand, we were to enjoy the sunset and return for chai later. All the boys from Bangalore ran into the giant sand box, Rich and I chased after them. By the time I got to the top of the dune I was out of breath, my eyes closed in on the soft colors in the sky. Rich and I sat on a raised crest of sand while the sun sank below the barren terrain before us; it was beautiful like the sunsets I remembered back home in the desert. Quiet and colorful, warm and still, my feet dug into the soft grains around us.

Over the course of the night the guides prepared dinner, a simple feast of curried vegetables, rice, chapattis and chai. Beer was available for those that ordered in advance. Around the ring of fire darkness expanded behind us and we all sat late into the night telling stories and sharing cultural teachings. I explained to the Indians in our group that it was a special holiday for me, Thanksgiving. It was only our group at camp that night, a seemingly vacant section of the desert with no facilities, completely immersed in the natural world. Our guides had packed blankets for our beds, just one thick blanket on the sand and several covers on top. Rich and I slept comfortably that night as we had packed our sleeping bags for extra warmth, the nights can be bitterly cold during the winter months in the Thar Desert. Once situated in bed, when the fire had been put out, complete darkness closed in. It was a new moon and the stars appeared in all their glory, from the very edge of the horizon they circled as far as my eyes could see, the Milky Way clearly visible, it was magical.

At dawn I continued to stay tucked within my blankets, while just about everyone else rose for a better view of the sunrise. The men from Bangalore said this was far too special a moment to miss, they were from a city in a tropical region, stars and sunrises from the sand dunes were just not a regular activity in their lives. From my bed I did see the sky turn from the deepest blue to the clear blue sky we are all familiar with, it was a beautiful morning.

After breakfast was made by the guides we motored back towards our final destination atop our trusty camels with a quick break at the watering hole.

Return to Jaisalmer  

Upon return to Jaisalmer reality began to slowly simmer into our thoughts. Just one night in the desert was one of the most refreshing experiences, although Rich and I must have had a worn look about us as we collected our backpacks and thanked Mr Desert. Hotel after hotel explained they were too full for us after we told them we had just returned from a camel safari.

Finally we found Hotel Swastika, another simple guesthouse outside the fort and directly across from the Peacock. For those who are not familiar with India, the swastika symbol represents purity in a holy sense and does not in anyway connect with the offensive European relation to Nazis. The owner of the Hotel Swastika prides himself on not pressuring guests with tours, although you can book one with him. He does not bargain or run a restaurant; really there are no frills here, just honest business with a grumpy middle aged man, “take it or leave it” were his words. I suppose he doesn’t want to waste his time with phony conversation either, works for me. Our stay was sufficient and when it was time to leave Jaisalmer, a beautiful city in its own right I knew we had made a good decision to book with Sahara Travel. Our safari took us to the far reaches of the desert, on Thanksgiving, a holiday I would remember for the rest of my life.

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Jaisalmer is one of India’s most popular destinations attracting Indian tourists from the far reaches of southern India and foreign tourists from across the globe. The attractive fort is set upon a plateau in the arid Thar Desert about 150km from the Pakistan border in the state of Rajasthan. Legend tells of a time long ago when Krishna, the incarnation of the Hindu God Vishnu prophesized that his descendents would one day build a great fort in this very location. Decades later the prophecy came to fruition when Rawal Jaisal founded the fort in 1156. A framed family tree located in the Palace of the Maharwai details the ancestry beginning with Krishna.

The honey colored fort is a maze of intricate detail from the palace façade, to the carefully carved lattice windows looking across the city from beyond the ramparts, Jaisalmer is golden. The fortified town is home to some 2,000 people, living and working primarily off of tourism. Restaurants, guesthouses and shops line the narrow alleyways built strategically to create shaded curves, relieving passages from the hot sun. Jaisalmer is a place to marvel at with its extravagant havelis and ornate Jain Temples, though there are still the hanging tie-die cloth pieces, textiles, t-shirts and gobs of tourist souvenirs along every walkway.

Listed as one of the World Monument Funds 100 Most Endangered Sites, there is more here then meets the eye. The problem literally starts at the bottom of things; it’s the soft sand and clay beneath. With the increase of water consumption, the foundation has begun to erode and the ill effects have already started to take place, homes have collapsed. The city is a magnificent mark left in India’s history and plans to restore and prevent further decay have begun with the international campaign, Jaisalmer in Jeopardy. The obvious thing a tourist can do to help is stay just outside the fort, which is what Rich and I did during our stay. There are many hotels and guesthouses to suite all budgets and most are within easy walking distance to the fort.

Of the impressive sites within the city walls are the hard to miss rising Jain Temples. Built of the same unifying sandstone throughout Jaisalmer between the 12th – 15th centuries, the temples show an incredible intricacy from the walls, ceilings and pillars. Practising members of Jainism in India make up less than one percent of the Indian population. Typically wealthy merchants, Jains believe all life forms have souls and should be valued with the same manner by avoiding harm to them. The religion began with followers of Mahavira, or “Great Hero” who opposed caste distinctions, and like Buddha walked away from a comfortable life in search of enlightenment. 

Inside the temples Jain manuscripts, paintings and astrological charts, including palm leaf books from the 11th centuries are displayed.

To find out more about Jaisalmer and it’s fort, take a look at the video below.

[youtube:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpTVILB9GQw&hl 425 355]

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A visit to Jodhpur will bring you to a town awash with blue colored old town houses. Overlooked by the imposing Meherangarh Fort rising 400ft above Jodhpur, the sheer rock face of sandstone rises some 130ft.  It’s the home of the infamous Jodhpur trouser, and historically known as the centre of Marwar, the largest state in Rajputana.  It’s now home to over a million people and it shows, but don’t let that deter you from a visit even if only for a day or two.

From our comfortable accommodation at the Yogi Guesthouse at the foot of the fort it proved to be an easy five minute walk uphill to the forts entrance.  The site certainly looks impressive as you draw near.

The cost of admission at the time of our visit was a reasonable Rs250 which also includes a very informative although not overly intrusive audio tour if you leave an ID card at the front desk.

What you can leave – Click here for details

Drivers license, passport, credit card or deposit.

It will cost you an additional Rs50 to take a camera into the fort, something that is becoming more commonplace at tourist locations around the world. It’s worth the cost!

It’s incredible to think the fort for many decades remained locked with bat droppings in great heaps throughout.  It was only after the Oxford educated Maharaja decided to do something about it in 1972 that work began to create a foundation to rescue the otherwise derelict fort.  Nowadays it’s mainly visitors that frequent the fort although there can still be seen the occasional determined bat. Interestingly the first revenues the foundation came upon were from the sale of the bat droppings to local farmers!

As the legend is told, in order to build the fort meant evicting a hermit known as Lord of the Birds from his prized hilltop location. He may have been only one man standing against the plans to build, but the forceful eviction left the hermit angry and he placed a curse upon any future building. Its effect is still felt to this day from Jodhpur’s continued shortage of water.  In order to protect the fort a request was made for a human sacrifice to which Raja Ram bravely (personally I think crazily) stepped forward to offer his eternal service.  Raja was placed alive in the forts foundation his only request to bestow upon his family several acres of land and for them to be treated as part of the royal family.  The treasury room was built directly over the body I suppose in an attempt to offer the gold more protection from thieves.  A small plaque to commemorate Raja’s ultimate sacrifice is located on the wall just outside the forts entrance.

From the sixth gate entrance to the fort you can see a sharp right hand turn just before the gate which was purposely put there to prevent elephants charging the door.  I’m sure the extra sharp spikes on the gate also somewhat helped to slow the advances of the elephants.  Inside this gate can be found the hand print impressions of Maharaja Man Singh’s widows as they passed on their way to commit Sati on his funeral pyre.  This meant when their husband died they were to throw themselves onto the fire willingly and without making a sound.  Fortunately this common practice ceased in 1843.

A walk round the fort will lead you through many rooms all with their unique story to be told and each one as interesting as the one before it.  There are several courtyards, royal apartments, Pearl Palace, Zenana (women’s quarters) and Flower Palace to name a few.

The two hours it took to wander around the fort seemed effortless and well worth the time.  Even just the view across to Jodhpur from the canon laden battlements is worth it on their own.

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Our train arriving into Udaipur was late. India‘s most romantic city awaited in the dim light hours of dusk. We had traveled for many hours cramped into the second-class coach and surprisingly we arrived in a calm state with big smiles.  Our new friends, the Sharma family wished us well in the few English words they could muster. Rich and I grabbed a rickshaw and waved goodbye with a promise to visit their family home.

As our rickshaw motored through the evening traffic of the city we passed well lit shops selling smart trends, leather goods and small print art. The little wheeled transport hugged the curves and bumped over a bridge towards the little peninsula we would be calling home for the next few nights. It was over the bridge across Lake Pichola that I first caught a glimpse of Udaipurs beauty. The onyx lake waters rippled beneath the palace and amber city lights. Rich and I got settled in to the Panorama Guest House, an excellent budget hotel with great views, as the name suggests, from the highly satisfying rooftop restaurant.

Udaipur is a shopper’s paradise, a restaurant dinner’s delight and a tourist settlement in its own class, at least after the monsoons have subsided. Rich and I visited the City Palace, one of the most impressive and the largest we had seen in Rajasthan. The grounds of the palace were extremely well maintained with lush landscaping and splashing fountains. The structure is comprised of eleven palaces connected by narrow passageways and courtyards. From different vantage points in the palace you can enjoy views across to Monsoon Palace high up on the neighboring hill and of the Lake Palace floating on the waters below, home to one of the worlds most romantic restaurants. It was here that James Bond wooed his lady friends in the film Octopussy. According to many fans of the Bond films series, Octopussy is their least favorite but its still fun to see all the landmarks of Udaipur and rickshaw chases in the film. Nightly screenings can be viewed at most guesthouses.

For Rich and I it wasn’t Bond, James Bond who won our hearts over dinner it was the Sharma family we’d met on our train journey to Udaipur. When I phoned them from our hotel to make arrangements their nine year old daughter, who speaks the most English, was so exited I couldn’t understand a word she spoke. Our hotel manager helped us on the phone and we were set to visit the family at 6pm. On the way to the suburbs of Udaipur we stopped and grabbed a kilo of sweets from the Indian bakery. It’s custom to bring some sweets when visiting for dinner. With the address in hand and the family name our driver spoke to a number of people passing by on the street for directions and finally we were greeted by Mahesh, the man of the house, small framed, he wore black slacks and a bright green sweater with a big grin. Even with the little to no English he spoke combined with the little to no Hindi we spoke, he somehow still managed to welcome us to his home when we arrived.

The family home was a small one room abode, similar to the clay dwellings from decades ago with no running water. The home was decorated with warm carpets and wall hangings. Two beds were fixed in an L shape to allow ample floor space and a color T.V. was setup near the entry. All the neighboring homes were the same, attached to one another down a narrow alleyway.

One of the neighbors, Vickky was waiting in the home as he spoke English. He brought his brother and sister who brought her child and husband, neighbors and their children popped in for tea. It was an event. Rich and I learned that the family had moved to Udaipiur with other members for work. Mahesh was supporting a family of four as a soap maker. The women of the house, Bhawana was the most welcoming to me, she touched me with friendly jesters, stuck a bindi on my head, painted my nails and offered gifts.  Her two children, Nikita and Nickel clambered upon me for attention showing me family photo albums, passing me chai and watched me eat dhal and corn chapattis. Nikita was a wide eyed 9-year old and her bother, Nickel at age 12 shared the shame open heart the entire family possessed.

After our visit the family was too sad to see us go, I felt spiritually adopted by them. Weeks later when I sat at the airport in Delhi I thought of my experience in India. I thought of the Sharma family and how Rich and I had been guests in their home one night in Udaipur, a city tourists flock to every year. I remembered the crowded beauty of Udaipur, the royal history of the palace and the delicate taste of dhal makhania at  Ambrai restaurant, but for me there was something else that mattered more. I had visited another side of the city, perhaps the secret side to outsiders, the real heart of the people thriving off the tourist scene, between the Hindu wall hangings and cool crested walls of simple homes. The people make a city and I was glad to visit the people. 

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Finding a safe way to travel across India may be difficult when you throw statistics into the mix. India is home to the most dangerous railway network in the world with hundreds of crashes and deaths every year. The alternative, traveling by bus can be somewhat rewarding as there are more destinations offered, however the number of fatalities each year reaches to the tens of thousands. During my travel between Delhi, Agra and Rajasthan Rich and I took the train when we could and the bus when it proved to be far more convenient.

Booking a Train

Generally speaking purchasing a rail ticket is no picnic. Most of the time I found myself in the ladies line pushing and shoving my way to the front of the line like everyone else, a more passive person would just be shoved out of the way. The rail network in India is quite impressive for such a large country. For long distance journeys advance reservations are a must, luckily for tourists a small number of seats (tourist quota) have been set aside for short notice bookings. Booking long distance journeys on short notice should be a last resort as the seats can be booked up. Short distance journeys can often be arranged with little notice such as the day before or same day.

If you are purchasing a seat reservation you will need to fill out a form with detailed information such as your name, age, sex, name and number of train, date of travel, plus departure and arrival points. If the form has not been filled out don’t expect sympathy or help, you will be turned away. If the form is filled out incorrectly you will be asked to resubmit adding more time to an already seemingly epic procedure. If you are merely purchasing a ticket with no reservation there is no need for a form and the cost of the ticket just about pays for the paper slip it is printed on.

Most rail stations in India have set aside a line for ladies and/or foreigners which is always shorter and often more civilized.  There is the occasional cheat that is obviously not a women or foreigner trying to push their way to the front and you just have to push them back. Shouting typically gets you nowhere unless the whole line rallies with you as it so happened once while waiting in line at the rail station in Gorakpur. Rich only started with a fierce remark and the ladies in line took over. The man did step out, a victory for the women and the foreigner!

Rail Travel

During my stay in India we traveled by rail in northern India from Gorakpur to Varanasi and Varanasi to Agra. We linked Bharatpur to Sawai Madhopur and Kota, Bundi to Udaipur via Chittaurgarh and Jaislmer overnight to Delhi. Some long distance trains and some short distance. During my travels I have found that trains are often late, even the ones that depart the rail station on time, as during the journey they seem to arrive at the destination hours off the mark. We traveled aboard in several different classes, although never first class.

Classes:

A/C chair Car: From Bharatpur to Sawai Madhopur. The air conditioned coach was clean with large comfortable reclining seats. No one will speak to you and a computerized screen and voice noted the speed the train was traveling, plus the approximate time of arrival to the next destination. A 300km journey is less than $10 per person.

A/C three-tier: Gorakpur to Varanasi; Sawai Madhopur to Kota; Jaislmer to Delhi overnight. Reasonably clean, no one cares to strike up a conversation and the cabin is air conditioned. The three tier beds are folded up during the daytime for passengers to sit on the bottom bunk. Chai salesmen still make it through the cabin. A 300km journey should cost about $10 per person.

Second-class sleeper: Varanasi to Agra overnight. No air conditioning, three tier sleeper. Not as clean as the A/C class. Chai salesmen visit, popcorn, water, and peanut salesmen too. Slightly crowded during the day, people seem to cram into the benches. Overnight is the real interesting part, when people carpet the floor with their bodies. Rich found this alarming the first time a man wanted to sleep on the floor alongside his belongings. Although after I peered down the corridor to see people had made a bed for the night in every space available, the corridor, alongside the luggage and the toilets, we finally understood it was a common practice. Rich invited the man to sleep on the floor. Second class sleeper is a friendly class and can be fun; people will offer you snacks or a taste of their dinner and you may even make a new friend. A 300km journey is less than $5 per person.

Second-class unreserved: Bundi to Udaipur via Chittaurgarh. Generally very few foreigners travel in this class and I have never ventured to the toilets. At first glance a journey on second class un-reserved is a traveler’s nightmare. Cramped beyond safety requirements passengers will cram themselves between one another down the corridor, along wooden benches and on metal racks intended for luggage.  Shy Indians will stare at foreigners while the ones who know a little English and have some confidence will open up a conversation. That’s what happened to me on my way to Udiapur.

 Rich and I were forced to sit in different sections of the train in order grab a seat for the long journey. One family seated their young daughter next to me and she struck up a conversation. Nikita was nine years old and had huge round chocolate eyes with a toffee complexion. Her dark hair had been cut short like her older brothers and they both became my friends on the journey. Nikita was so excited about our meeting she brought her mom over to meet me and thus the over crowded section of our carriage became a wall of people smiling and laughing as I was learning a little Hindi, my favorite, Arey (oh dear)! I showed many passengers pictures of my home and family; I had only started with Nakita but as soon as I looked up dozens of people had gathered. By the time our train arrived in Udaipur my new Indian friends insisted Rich and I come to visit. They were and still are some of the kindest people I ever met in India. A 300km journey is less than $1.50 per person.

All fare guidelines in this article were taken from Rough Guide Rajasthan, Delhi and Agra Sept 2007 edition which can be purchased below.

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Bundi is located in the southern territory of Rajasthan. The small welcoming town has an eyeful of beautifully restored havelies (old mansions), while some are left stranded in the ever impeding current of time, forgotten beneath a thick sheet of dust. We made our home for the next five nights at Kasera Paradise, an immaculately restored 16th century haveli colorfully decorated with murals and stained glass. Although the guesthouse was understaffed this was one of my favorite places to stay in Rajasthan, I truly felt at home.    

The town is home to many interesting sights, first there is the fort and palace, a magnificent structure from the 16th and 17th centuries. Inside the cool dark intricately carved rooms, bare from the suns strong rays, colorful murals still adhere to the walls. Not far from the town center is Sukh Mahal, an old Raja palace where Kipling stayed, spending months working on “Kim” and “The Jungle Book.”

Beyond the man made structures small tour operators are beginning to run trips to outlaying areas of natural beauty and for the more adventurous there are rental bikes available to make the journey to nearby waterfalls.

Small and easy to navigate, our visit to Bundi was to get a feel for the annual festival. Most festivals in India are for a reason, usually religious and have been a tradition for hundreds of years, but the Bundi festival had its very own special reason for the last six years or so, to attract tourists.

The festival is a three day event and begins with an inaugural ceremony at the foot of the palace. Here a bright red carpet is rolled out over the long cobbled lane which winds down a hill connecting the palace with Sadar Bazaar. As the heat of the day was beginning to set in a small amount of tourists gathered to witness the ceremony and “Welcome of the guests,” as noted on my program. Men in traditional clothes sang, ladies and eunuchs danced, children marched in uniforms, men paraded with drums while droves of women arrived in colorful dress to fill empty spaces. Piled onto the foot of the palace, Indians eagerly performed in whatever available space could be found, while a man spoke over the microphone. I can not tell you a thing he said, except “Bundi,” was repeated several times. After the opening and very colorful procession I wandered towards Sadar Bazaar, but not before accepting a tasty ladoo (doughy sweet), a gift for the guests!

Members of the procession slowly marched behind Rich and I through the bazaar towards the Police Parade ground. The town had borrowed a brightly painted elephant from Jaipur for the event. Camels where lovingly decorated in eye catching designs and horses dressed in tassels passed onlookers and cows. Everything including myself and Rich was clustered into the narrow road while traffic still tried to push through the multitude of obstructions.  The eye catching and extremely loud musical events of the parade trickled down the road at the pace of a turtle.

Once we arrived at the Police Parade ground we grabbed a shady seat in anticipation for the horse race. The parade ground was a large dirt lot that must have held many communal functions. Permanent seating had been built on the far end of the field, but we sat in a tented area with several fold up chairs to avoid the hot sun. Sitting in the fourth row from the front Rich and I watched a man wearing a colorful turban and pinstriped suit arrive, take a seat in the front row. Local men moved for him, even armed guards followed him and cameras focused on him. Everyone in the crowd quieted themselves as an older man took to the microphone to begin the awaited event.  

Sitting beneath an umbrella of painted sheets I noticed a large number of foreigners gathered near. We all focused on a man gathering fresh cut flowers from the table just beyond our seats. They were then passed to the man wearing the colorful turban. Journalists suddenly appeared and began snapping photos at this action, and then the man in the turban turned towards the crowd and passed the flowers to a young foreign girl a couple rows ahead of Rich and I. They paused while cameras flashed. This continued between all the Indian men in the front row. They would pass the flowers to a foreigner while each step was photographed. While watching this a man leaned over from behind Rich and I to speak to us and anyone in earshot. “You are invited,” he explained, “you are invited for lunch. A real Rajasthani lunch for our guests, and there are gifts.” He smiled. “We have bangles for the women and a turban for the man” He pointed to Rich’s head. 

We both smiled back at him and nodded in appreciation, “thank you.”

“You’re most welcome” his words had a ring that sparked laughter inside my soul.

The giving of flowers continued for a few moments more. One boy was brought to the front of the crowd, possibly from England. Here all the men gave him flowers beginning with the man in the colorful turban. So many cameras flashed I lost my sight for a moment and the boy never once looked confused. I leaned over and commented to the girl sitting next me, “he handles his fame quite well,” she nodded with a giggle. Everyone cheered as he made his way to the back row and the races began with a whistle.

Horses galloped past my eyes several times, although I can’t tell you which horse won, I just cheered in support from my invaded viewing point in the sea of curious onlookers. That evening long after the races and parade a warm breeze blew into town reminding me of a similar weather pattern from back home in California. The festivities sounded through my mind, I recalled a day of smiles. Cheerful men joined mustache competitions, turban wrapping and a game of tug of war, foreigners against locals. The foreigners won, well at least on the men’s side. In the darkness of the night fireworks lit the sky as Rich and I stood atop the rooftop of our guesthouse clasping hot chai. I do feel most welcome in Bundi, I must say.

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Ranthambore National Park is known as the easiest place to spot wild tigers, therefore the park attracts crowds of tourists. Originally royal hunting grounds for the rulers of Jaipur the forested refuge officially became a national park in 1972 under Project Tiger. Rich and I decided to book a two night stay at the Tiger Safari Resort, who ensured a hotel pick up from the rail station. On arrival we were greeted with a sign, “Mr. Meadows.”

After checking into our room we arranged our early morning safari through the hotel. Since we would be entering tiger country we each had to sign a waiver to state the park would not be held responsible for injury or death, if they did occur!  Raul was the manager at the Tiger Safari Resort and he was extremely courteous, he arranged an early morning wake up call, breakfast before departure and assured us there was nothing for us to do but sit back, relax and enjoy the tour.

At 5:15AM we awoke to knocking at our door. This was one of the few times in my life I did not mind. I stirred a moment, got out of my comfy bed and splashed cold water on my face with a smile. Rich and I quickly dressed, layered with t-shirts and a sweater as the morning air is cold this time of year. It was difficult for me to eat before departing for the park due to my nervous excitement. At breakfast, over coffee Rich relayed to me the number of visitors in the guest book who had seen tigers, “a lot of people have spotted them, and some have seen three!”

Our canter arrived at 6:30AM, a green open top 20-seater van essentially, which made the ride over to the park rather brisk. We stopped at a couple of other hotels, but our hotel held the first pick up so Rich and I got great seats in the front. We chatted with others on board along the way to the park, others that were on their second and third safari with no luck. Surely this should be the lucky safari.

We entered the park by a narrow paved road which winded though two hillsides before passing the visitor interpretation center and old fort. From then on the road was dirt and far more narrow. Passing waterways the still morning air played with the early sunshine before a dry grassy plain expanded over hills.  Along the way we spotted deer, peacocks and storks. Finally around a bend we entered a forested area. Here on the sandy road we found fresh tracks of a big cat. All the passengers in the canter stared at the large prints, about ten times bigger then my kitty cat. Excitement grew and everyone knew a tiger was near given that the tracks were so fresh. “Tiger come to drink in the morning,” our guide explained.

Our guide and driver took us to a shady bend were the tiger had been spotted the night before. Here we waited silently. After some time, there was no tiger and we drove on, but not much later we saw another set of tracks, this time headed in the opposite direction. Our large canter speeded along the dusty road and then slowed when we spotted a group of tourists. They were all standing in their canter with cameras out. I then spotted two other jeeps doing the same; they waved at us to move forward, there was a tiger they hushed. Unfortunately for us they had the advantage of being on a raised part of the road, we drove forward enough to try to grab a glimpse, all passengers out of their seats peering into the bush. I asked those on our canter, “Do you see the tiger, do you see it!” Before anyone answered the other tourists exclaimed it was gone.

Once again our guide and driver rushed us off to another location in hopes to cut the tiger off. The guides knew the tiger trails, knew their habits and had a lot of faith that we would see a tiger. So we sat again in a shady corner and waited. Just before we were about to leave a man in the front of our canter raised his voice, “I see something…there,” he pointed, “something is moving in the brush.”  I had been listening for sometime now to a rustling.

Our guide in his thick accent murmured, “It’s the forest guard.”

“Is that some kind of bird?” the man gasped.

This time Rich intercepted trying to hold back laughter, “No it’s a man.”

The canter started the engine and we drove by the forest guard, a few birds then flew out of the bush, our hopes were let down. It had been about three hours of tracking this tiger and as a last chance our canter pulled to another spot on the side of the road. Dry brush was all around, the sun now bright and strong as ever. People began to take there jackets and sweaters off, children found it hard to sit still. I listened silently and heard a feline growl from the dense end of the forest. It was the growl of a cub, but not once did a cat make an appearance.

Every moment might be my last chance to see a tiger as we motioned back through the expanse of brush where deer roamed, back through shady nooks and alongside the lake where animals drink. Here we saw birds of prey, crocodiles, monkeys and sanbar deer before exiting the park.

It was truly a magical experience to come as close as we did to wild tigers. I can only imagine, as I did on the canter, what it would be like to actually see one in the wild. All the passengers on my canter were subdued during the return to their hotels.  We hurtled along the highway, passing jeeps, trucks and camels, but I had an experience to savor and I will always remember how close I came to a wild tiger.

Ranthambore National Park is expensive by Indian standards, the nearby town of Sawai Madhopur is nothing to write home about, and the whole experience is shared with lots of tourists. Even if you are lucky enough to arrange a private jeep, there will be others sharing the small dirt road, picking up dust and revving engines during your safari. The experience will be shared with many, but only a small percentage of people in the world will ever see tigers in the wild. I’d go there again.

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Baratpur, once founded became a busy market town and known to many as the eastern gateway to Rajasthan.  At the center of town still stands the imposing and solid Lohagarh Fort.  Its moat, 45m wide and in places up to 15m deep survives to this day.  During 1805 the British suffered their worst defeat in Rajasthan with a futile attempt to penetrate the fortification.

I wasn’t here to finish the job the British had tried to accomplish all those years ago, no I was here to visit the nearby Keoladeo National Park in hope of spotting as many of the recorded 375 species of birds, even a few mammals and reptiles thrown in for good measure.

Our chosen guesthouse Kiran, happened to be located within 300m of the park entrance housing sparkling rooms, a homely atmosphere and good quality home cooking. Rooms are for the budget conscious but that hasn’t affected the service or standards. The guest-house is owned and run by two exceptionally friendly and helpful brothers, one of which can offer his services as a park guide.

Kiran Guesthouse – Click here for details

I should mention, for the best food in town (my opinion) at reasonable prices head over to the Falcon Guesthouse which is located just off the main road about five minutes walk from Kiran (or jump in a Rickshaw and ask the driver). The small garden restaurant is family run with the food made to order and well worth the longer than usual wait. You will not be disappointed. The Chana Masala and the Kheer (rice pudding with a home cooked twist) are both outstanding.

Keoladeo National Park

This is India’s top bird-watching sanctuary which attracts large numbers of birds thanks to its important migratory location, protected status and its vast wetlands although these are much reduced in size due to several drought years in India.  As can be expected, this area has also proved popular with the more common homo-sapiens which are seen frequenting the park in large numbers after the monsoon season has finished!

This isn’t a place just suited to ornithologists, but somewhere to be enjoyed by anyone with an appreciation for nature and wildlife as we found out.

There are several park guides all willing to show you around the park plus you might also find your guesthouse offers a guide as ours did at the Kiran.  For a reasonable price we could have organized a four hour guided tour.  For us non avid bird watchers we preferred to find our own way in the park for a more intimate and private appreciation of the parks beauty.  A small fairly useless map is provided for the cost of admission, but we didn’t feel it was necessary as the roads all generally loop around. We did opt however to rent bicycles to make our way around the large park land.

Climbing aboard our rickety, gearless and mechanically impaired bikes we set off along the main path which heads towards the wetlands and the center of the park.  The landscape is dry and somewhat barren at first, but after peddling further along the flat road past sacred cows, monkeys and deer the trees begin to provide a canopy and the wetlands begin.  At first you wonder if you’ll be able to spot any birds as park guides seem to be the ones who have the knack for it, but it’s not long before you start spotting flashes of color to your left and to your right.  In some parts of the park its extremely obvious where the birds are as either you will see a group of people standing and pointing or you won’t be able to hear yourself think over the noise hundreds of birds are making amongst the trees.

Large Monitor lizards can be found near the waters edge although you have to move quietly and slowly to spot them as they seem relatively shy.  No chance of a photo for us as they just don’t stick around long enough.  The turtles on the other hand seemed quite content and happily posed for us from the relative safety of their perch.

After spending the best part of four hours riding around the park and its impressive wetlands we made our way back to the entrance.  The experience was certainly one to be remembered, escaping from the noise and the pollution of the town for a few hours to be surrounded by the peace and tranquility of the park with its many seasonal residents.  It had a calming effect on me and I knew this place was special.

History
 
Its sad to think this beautiful paradise was once a royal hunting reserve.  Found inside the park is a plaque which recounts the unfortunate encounters man has had with the birds.  On one particularly dreadful day back in 1938 the hunting party of viceroy Lord Linlinthgow shot a record 4273 birds.  Thankfully despite these hunting parties thirst for blood, the bird numbers continued to increase.  Many years later in 1956 the area became a sanctuary and a national park in 1982.  It finally became recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985.  Salim Ali or the Birdman of India as he came to be recognized devoted many years of his life to studying the birds in the park and played a pivotal role in it’s protection.

Tip: - Click here for details

There’s no need to pack your own binoculars as there are several pairs for rent inexpensively. That being said the quality is extremely suspect and if you’re a true birdwatcher I’m sure you would rather bring your own equipment.Rent bikes just inside the park entrance for 25 rupees each.

The best time to visit the park is after the monsoons from October to March. During these months the weather is dry, but the lakes are still full and teeming with resident migratory birds. It’s worth noting however that mist during December and January can reduce your chances of serious bird watching activities.

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Agra has a reputation for its pollution, traffic jams and city jumble due to its sheer size but for me, this city turned out to be a breath of fresh air. I arrived at the Agra Fort rail station early in the morning with my travel partner, Rich. Our rickshaw driver was incredibly polite, the streets were empty and the cool air clasped onto the white haze that lingered for the duration of our visit. In particular I took notice of the large sweeping streets, sidewalks and gardens before arriving at the lovely Hotel Sheela next to the East Gate entrance to the Taj Mahal. The hotel is situated in a traffic free zone in an effort to better preserve the Taj by lowering pollution levels.

Rich and I spent four nights in Agra. We relaxed in the hotel gardens where I was especially taken with the hotel dogs, one a little Pomeranian and Tiger the friendly German Shepard. Needless to say these simple pleasures along with the excitement of seeing the Taj Mahal and the looming US presidential election and I was in a great state of mind. We were both on the recovery from our illness, poor diet and the strain of constant travel over the last week. We walked the Taj Ganj, a jumble of guesthouses and shops near our hotel. My first glimpse of the Taj was from a Taj Ganj rooftop café. We shuffled past the souvenir shops and easily caught a rickshaw whenever there was a need to get around the city. We visited the local mall for browsing in air-conditioned spaciousness, detoured with a stop in Kinari Bazaar, a tight cluster of family run shops, had lunch at a local tea stand and Rich even got a hair cut. It was a relief.

After getting settled in Agra and seeing the Taj Mahal another site well worth visiting is Agra Fort. Both sites are easily visited on the same day and the incentive for this is your discount Taj ticket (50RS off, same day only). When I first arrived at the Agra Fort rail station that early morning I had been enamored with the beauty of the red-sandstone ramparts of the fort. The well preserved fortification was built between 1565 and 1573. Upon entering the impressive main gate the path leads to the citadel, once the stronghold the Mughal Empire.

With my guidebook in hand Rich and I wandered through courtyards, from one lavish marble structure to an array of red sandstone complexes. The fort is a mix between intricate Hindu elements, elegant Mughal design and Islamic motifs. The rooms are barren now, only hinting of a period that passed many years ago. Inside we imagined a time when oil lamps lit the rooms and soft pillows cushioned men and women of royalty, while beautiful carpets covering the floors. Now the smell of bat guano permeated throughout the living quarters. From the finely carved lattice screens, we peered to view a distant Taj Mahal in the thick haze and shuffled through the palace. I admired the three domed mosque, Nagina Masjid (Gem Mosque) the most. It was superior in beauty from its divine shape made entirely of marble, to the shiny marble paved courtyard that surrounded it, lovingly built for the ladies of the harem.

After visiting the fort we made our way back to the Sheela. Our last night in Agra had arrived so quickly. We packed our bags with care and settled into bed not knowing what lay ahead in the coming weeks. 

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Lets be honest, most people, if not all who visit Agra are here primarily to visit what has been proclaimed as the most beautiful building in the world or as Rudyard Kipling the author of The Jungle Book put it, “the ivory gate through which all dreams pass.”

Based at the charming Hotel Sheela within 200 meters of the East Gate entrance Megan and I were ideally located to take an early morning stroll and as we ignorantly thought, to beat the crowds who were sure to turn up later in the day.

I think most of Agra however shared our desire to get in early, given the enormity of the crowd jostling to purchase tickets and then queue outside the immense gates that formed the entrance.  Finally the doors opened about thirty minutes late and everyone shuffled slowly forwards.

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Women and men are split into separate queues near the front in order to be searched. The rules are extremely strict as to what can and can’t be brought in. Digital cameras are ok as is water, but they do not allow other electrical items and this even goes for USB cables as Megan found out. Read the entry instructions at the gate the day before to familiarize yourself. If you try to get in with any unauthorized items you will be sent to a locker room where you will need to leave them. You will be given a numbered ticket to collect them on your way out.

Even with the extortionate and disproportional cost of a ticket for foreigners compared to Indians, put down to an inexplicable government tax and with the invariable commercialism excreted in the streets immediately adjacent to the Taj, this somehow does not detract from the overall experience.  For once inside the walled Taj Mahal complex, the sounds of outside fade and serenity amongst the hordes of visitors prevails.

Don’t for one minute be under the illusion that you’ll be able to take that perfect photo without another soul in the frame as this simply won’t be possible.  There are professional photographers who roam around the complex touting their services and for a reasonable price it’s possible to have your photo taken from the infamous spot Lady Diana was photographed.  You can pick up your print on the way out.

It’s easy to be overwhelmed upon first sight of the impressive Mausoleum that is the Taj Mahal, but I can’t decide in my mind if this is all down to the fact the building is so beautiful or inclusive of the fact it’s such an iconic symbol which feels a little surreal to stand next to.  Either way you can’t help but stare in wonder as you make your way closer to it alongside the pooled water.  In order to go inside the marble structure you have a choice of either leaving your shoes with an attendant or using the bags provided which go over your shoes.  We opted to use the provided bags as the attendants were trying to make an illicit few rupees out of tourists.

Make your way to the raised area at the front of the Taj by climbing the stairs and then enter through the small doorway which will take you into the chamber where Mumtaz Mahal and later Shah Jahan are entombed.  The Taj Mahal which is named after the shortened version of Mumtaz Mahal’s official palace name was built as a romantic monument as Shah’s love for his favorite wife who died shortly after giving birth to the emperor’s fourteenth child.  The chamber is beautifully decorated and the two tombs stand in the middle of the domed room behind a marble lattice work.  Standing in the chamber room with hundreds of visitors yelling and taking photos even though instructed not to, made me wonder whether the two lovers could ever find eternal peace or only on a Friday when the Taj is closed to the public.

Work started on the Taj Mahal in 1632 and with the aid of over twenty thousand men it was completed in 1653.  No paint adorns the marble walls; instead its color comes from the use of semi precious stones which decorate the Taj in onyx, lapis, turquoise, jade, coral, crystal, mother of pearl, lazuli and amethyst.  The stones were brought in from as far away as Russia, Tibet, China, Afghanistan and the Indian Ocean.
 
Amazingly the emperor’s own son seized power from his father who was subsequently held at the nearby Agra fort, where as legend has it the emperor lived out his final years gazing across to the Taj Mahal a sad and broken man.  He died in 1666, his body carried on the river waters to lie next to his beloved wife.

The Taj is built overlooking the river Yamuna and stands in large ornamental gardens complete with a red sandstone mosque to the west and a replica Jawab to the east.  No pain has been spared in the level of detail found in the marble carvings on the walls.  Walking around the Taj complex is certainly an interesting experience with a lot to take in.  It is little wonder therefore it takes between 1-2 hours to leisurely stroll round. 

Early in the morning might not be the best time of day to visit given the hordes of people queuing outside when later in the day there didn’t seem to be a queue.  Combine this with the traffic pollution making it barely possible to see the sun through the fumes and you could be forgiven for not wanting to visit at dawn.  As most brochures, posters and photos of the Taj show it with the same blue sky and vivid white marble however, perhaps a more mystical photo and experience might actually be what you are looking for.

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Crossing the Indian border turned out to be a simple matter. We had homed in on the green, white and orange banner welcoming us to India when a young boy stopped our rickshaw driver. He pointed to the Nepalese immigration office. So after a quick departure stamp and wave goodbye to Nepal we were once again on our way to India. After crossing the border Rich and I had to seek out the Indian immigration office, as we were both obvious candidates, worn down westerners carrying all our worldly possessions by backpack, some locals did point us in the right direction without hesitation.  When passing through immigration I always have a slight panic, a thought that just maybe I will be refused entry, but when the man working passport control signed my visa and threw it back at me I felt welcome enough. The next hurdle was transport. We caught a bus heading south; our goal was to get in touch with India’s broad-gauge railway. 

The bus we caught was one of the nicest I had been on since touching down in Central Asia, fairly clean, padded seats, not a jingle of loose bolts, with digital entertainment of the latest Bollywood smash hit. Not long after commenting on the appealing state of the bus, it broke down. We were about an hour into a three hour journey to Gorakhpur. This was not the first time a bus had fallen victim to an overworked and under attended day, but when the driver began to dismantle the clutch we hailed the next passing bus.

Our efforts most likely got us to the grubby city of Gorakhpur hours earlier then fate had arranged and from there we got the next train to Varanasi. All of the travel between rickshaws, buses and trains had been a bit of a strain since Rich and I were both recovering from food poisoning. Our stomachs were sensitive, our bodies weak and our sprits sore, we decided to rest in Varanasi for a couple of nights as this would be the last jump before making it to Rajasthan. Unfortunately Varanasi has a reputation beyond being one of India’s holiest cities; it is known to be one of the worst cities for scams. 

First of all our rickshaw driver did as the guide book warned, he dropped us off in the Old City as we asked, albeit at the guesthouse he wanted us to stay at. This is a scam that has really gotten out of hand and drivers will use every trick in the book to collect a little commission. I had a map and a lot of wit. I paid the man the sum agreed upon and walked along the Ganges toward the guesthouse I wanted to stay at, The Shanti. Back in Nepal a couple of travel veterans from the UK had recommend the place. They spent an evening giving Rich and I travel advice that had already paid off, so I trusted their opinion.

Walking alongside the river, sweat began to build on my forehead, passing the burning ghats, funeral after funeral. This was after all where people come to die, depending on their cast, bodies are burned on the sacred ground or raised platform after a ceremonial cleansing with the river water. It is believed that if you pass in Varanasi the vicious life cycle will come to an end, and eternal peace is yours. Ash from the burning wood and bodies’ fall like snow here reminding visitors that death is as ordinary as life.

We had a walk of about 20 minutes, but with each cautious step as to avoid the cow dung, dog crap or human waste Rich and I was approached by someone. We were asked if we needed a boat ride, a tour, a guesthouse, can we donate to this funeral or that funeral, do we want this or that, anything! One child after another, “what country, where are you going, where did you come from.” Men stumbling for words, holding chrome pots for donations, fakes I am sure they were, touts, commission hungry, every one of them hoping to drain a little something, appearing from dark alleys and cracks in the walls. We ignored them for the most part, but with the increasing smell of urine, falling ash and buzzing flies there was little calm left in me. It was as if we were being chased and when I heard a boy cry, “their going to the Shanti,” I ran ahead of him, my only cause was to get to the Shanti before any touts raised my bill for a commission. After all it was not anyone of them who brought me here. In my crazed state I jumped towards a doorway to the right just after a Shanti guesthouse sign. 

It was a clean quiet place, an oasis of calm. The owner ushered us upstairs on arrival to a spacious room and we checked in for a two night stay. We explained to the owner that his guesthouse, The Shanti had been recommended to us by a couple of Brits, they stay here whenever they are in Varanasi. He calmed us, soothed us and brought us upstairs to his rooftop cafe. At the rooftop café human existence was scarce; the tables were of course exposed to the outdoor elements with a layer of fine grey ash. But I was too tired to complain and scanned the menu, “strange” I told Rich, “this menu says Sankatha,” Strange way of spelling Shanti, I thought as the guidebook and the British guys both spelt it, Shanti. Meanwhile the owner sat down with us and told us a story of recent guests, their personal trials and tribulations and their quest for silk. He explained how to tell the difference between polyester and silk and if we were interested, he could escort us to a silk shop in the morning. With a fixed pleasure he spoke of the favor he would doing us, not seeking a commission as other hotels are doing. I of course declined, we were sick and needed rest. The second time he mentioned it I abruptly told him, this was not a shopping trip. What guesthouse are we really at, I asked Rich.

That night Rich and I went to bed early, but a festival was raging outside. The streets were celebrating the end of Diwali with the homecoming of Rama and Sita in the Ramayana. Explosive firecrackers knocked against our windows, shaking the narrow building. Distant drums approached the alley below our balcony and cheers rose above all other noises, I had to take a peek outside. From the balcony it was the drummers who first caught my attention, with their passionate beats, arms wailing against the skin of the instrument. Men were dancing between the crowds and ladies looked on from a distance with big smiles, including me. Generals marched by with rifles and swords, camels and dead bodies passed by my balcony. Then the sword dancers in masked costumes drifted between the streets, and ghostly floats carried children passed. The children were neatly wrapped in silken cloth from head to toe, sitting almost lifeless atop wooden poles, rocking with the movement, lit by lanterns, their shadows racing down the narrow alleys towards the burning ghats. It was certainly a spectacle not to be missed. Families on rooftops huddled together to watch the performances in the street, and bodies continued to pass wrapped in silk, peacefully laid upon wooden frames. Members of each funeral procession passed, some quiet and grief stricken, while others wailed in remembrance of their loved ones. I had never felt so immersed in death and it was then that I remembered the holiday being celebrated on the same day back home, it was Halloween. 

By morning I was refreshed and finally aware that I was not at the Shanti.  A few minutes walk around the dirty alleyway by following the signs, Rich and I found the real Shanti. This guesthouse was much more atmospheric with a crowded rooftop café, a pool table and special lassies, but it was also far grubbier. The dusty walls, chipped away furniture and toilet with broken flush made this apparent, but the staff were friendly and the travelers aplenty. From the roof top there was an excellent view of the old city and the Ganges. I sat quietly in hopes to overcome the illness I had been dealing with for some time now. My skin was warmer then usual, even during the cool mornings and I had been feeling breathless after walking up the stairs. A weakness carried weight in every movement I made, so carefully I sat listening to a whistling in the distance. Rich pointed out the pigeons that were flying above the rooftop. “A pigeon fancier,” he explained. He continued to point out a man I could barley make out without my glasses, he had a flag waving about and whistling loudly, the man was controlling the pigeons as they flew. “There is quite a bit of money in that you know”. I was just enamored at the mere sight of such a spectacle. Birds under control, with their own ability to fly away, yet they don’t.

One my last day in Varanasi I passed the owner of Sankatha Guesthouse in the street, he was on his way to the silk shop with some other hotel guests and I was soon to be on my way to the train station. Two days of my life had passed in this city. I had been disgusted on arrival by the thick haze of pollution, utter chaos on the streets, the stench of open sewers and unavoidable scams. I suppose like the pigeons of a fancier you have to do the same with your senses, let them fly and trust they will return, then you may find an appreciation for Varanasi.

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Heading along the Siddhartha Highway I believe I came closer to God.  I say this with regards to the experience I encountered on my journey to the Indian border. The highway I traveled along is known to be dramatic, narrow and crumbling. It is the passageway between rugged mountain passes and deep gorges, linking the prospering cities of Pokhara and Butwal. Past Butwal the once curving road unfolds to a flat dusty basin all the way to the Indian border town of Bhairawa, a stepping stone to Lumbini, Buda’s birthplace. 

From Pokhara the bus I traveled upon hugged each bend and plowed through the washed out curves. Landslides are common along this highway during monsoons; therefore the roadway closes often. I was visiting after monsoons but the effects had not been cleared. Hillsides had crumbled and slid into the inside lane exposing the lands soft underbelly, large boulders had finally fallen and water spouts leaked from crevices high above.

I sat across from Rich, my traveling partner, admiring the Himalayan Mountain range that would appear around each bend to find peace. The bus was crowded, all seats taken, some people standing; some on the roof, a few hanging off the door, like most buses in Nepal, full beyond capacity. The driver concentrated on the highway, incessantly honking his horn, blowing dust off the road, whisking through villages and all while determined to overtake every other vehicle on the road. Then there is the co-driver who passengers have the most dealings. The co-driver works extra hard collecting fares, yelling destinations to get more passengers, packs luggage and always waves a genuine goodbye when we get off the bus. 

Racing along gorges and endless mountainsides the Nepali man sitting next to Rich pointed to a very deep ravine. He explained that a bus had tumbled off the cliffside killing all passengers not long ago. Looking at all the people aboard, the basket of chickens and the co-driver shuffling about, the dangerous reality hit me. We drove by several accidents along the highway, one of which was a head on collision, so when we arrived in Tansen to break up the journey it was a relief. Our bus pulled away leaving us and our bags along a roadside stand. The Hindi music aboard faded, as did the faces of the passengers that waved goodbye from the windows and rooftop.

We made our way to the hill town of Tansen by jeep. On arrival, the dusty little town quickly became a disappointment. The hotel we booked into was overpriced considering the awful facilities, construction everywhere and people staring at us. We felt unwelcome in town, which was a shame, as there are several areas of interest, from cobbled stone alleys, markets and charming historical buildings. Even the exceptional views couldn’t win our hearts. One night was enough for us to grab the next bus out of Tansen.

The first bus out was leaving at 8AM to the Indian border. Again along the winding roads, but this time children were barfing and the bus had seen better days decades ago. Constantly pulling along side the road to gather more passengers, the ground we were covering was no faster than I could pedal. This was apparent to me by the man on bicycle that we were sharing the road with for hours.

By late afternoon, we made our way to Lumbini, Buda’s birthplace. It is said that Buda’s mother Maya Devi was passing through the area now known as Lumbini. She stopped to swim in a pond surrounded by flowering Sal trees. It was said to be a place of profound beauty. After swimming in the water she went into labor and only managed to walk 25 steps before grabbing the branch of a Sal tree to give birth. Since then pilgrims of the Buddhist faith have returned to this spot for centuries. Ruins have been found dating back about 2200 years and now there is the recent development of temples. The Lumbini Development Zone is a large landscaped park designed by Japanese architect Kenzo Tange. The park itself is home to many monasteries and stupas built by Buddhists from around the world.

Since arriving the landscape had changed. Clear blue skies had shriveled away to a thick dusty haze. The mountains tucked into a distant horizon were no longer visible from the low grassy plain. We ambled into Lumbini Bazaar, a dried out town. Here we checked into the Lumbini Garden Lodge after surveying a few other guesthouses. The lodge was run by a sweet family and they had a large balcony looking over the main road. Rooms were bare and drab, but the price and atmosphere was right. After getting settled in and having a small dinner at a roadside diner, we tucked ourselves into bed enthusiastic about visiting the Development Zone.

During the night a sudden and severe illness affected Rich. His vomiting startled me and it continued for hours accompanied by diarrhea. Sometime before 3AM he laid motionless, exhausted, waiting for the next wave of involuntary heaving and asked how I was feeling. It was at that point that I felt sweat gather around my temples and nausea overcome, I had to run to the bathroom and vomit. It was an awful sickness that left us both in bed for the remainder of our time in Lumbini. With little strength we eventually nibbled on crackers and water, and were never able to visit the sights of interest.

Outside our room by the second nightfall the Diwali festival had begun. Colorful lights were hung on the shops and houses, oil lamps and candles lit, and children were letting off firecrackers. At times it sounded like we were under attach from the explosions. It is a festival of light and sound, which includes the giving and receiving of gifts and sweets. Our guesthouse even gave us a small bowl of fruit and sweets.

On the following morning we had no choice but to travel across the border to India because our visas were expiring. I suppose this is not the part of travel people factor in, perhaps a traveler gets sick, but they assume there is time to rest and recover, though this is not always the case. With our bags backed, my pal lips trembled as I constructed a day of buses and rickshaws through unknown places. My weak legs carried the weight of my body and Rich and I left Lumbini behind. My mind struggled with the past three days; from Nepal’s mountainsides to landslides and dusty plains to an exhausting sickness we approached the border, “Welcome to India” the sign read over the road.

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