On my way to Hungary I did not know what to expect. The quick decision to take a night train from Munich to Budapest was made in the hope of making our way to Northern Romania with little hassle. We booked seats on a 9 hour journey through Austria in the darkest hours of the night, finally arriving in Hungary as the sun lent its golden rays to vast sunflower fields. We cut through corn fields, rural villages and then a Nestle Factory appeared along the rail tracks just before we entered the city limits.
The rail station threw my weary eyes into a swarm of buzzing passengers coming and going through the thick summer air. Budapest Keleti is a busy rail station and I was the latest arrival. I had done the little research necessary to find my way through the metro network, M2 red line to Moszkva tér and then the minibus number 10 straight to the Castle District. I did have to ask a few reluctant locals for direction and buy the tickets for each transfer, but I did find my way in a good time. I climbed aboard the blue minibus before it took off for the bouncy ride through the cobbled stone road that took me up the hill to the Hilton Budapest Hotel. It was here that I would lavish the next three nights.
TRAVELERS TIP: Before embarking on your around the word journey look for ways to acquire Hilton Honors points for free hotel nights. This is a superb reward after many nights camping, busing and long distance train journeys cramped in second class. We used point’s stretcher for 3 free hotel nights. Thank you Hilton!
Budapest, once three towns Buda, Óbuda and Pest is a bustling hub split by the River Danube that runs between hilly Buda and expansive Pest. Considered the Paris of the East, it only took me a few moments to fall in love with Budapest walking amongst the pillars of Castle Hill in Buda.
BUDA
Buda is the quiet side of the city and often over-run with tourists early in the morning. The cluster of historic homes, shops and monuments are densely constructed on the hillside of the right bank of the Danube. Buda only compromises one third of the city, and is built upon a natural cave system, some of which are open to tourists. When the weather is very hot outside it is rewarding to take a walk through Buda Castle Labyrinth. Here Rich and I purchased two discounted entrances (discount for 2 people entry) and made our way through the 1200 meter long cave. A network of naturally wrought passageways takes the visitor through dark chambers with little light and mysterious man made sculptures. During your visit music permeates through the walls and becomes increasingly dark in tune when you find yourself in obscure tunnels (fun and frightening). My favorite part of the labyrinth was the Labyrinth of Courage. Here you must enter an almost pitch black room and find your way out with only a small beam of light to guide you. The trouble is you must first find the beam of light in complete darkness without banging into the stone walls. The Labyrinth is well worth a visit and can be done during the day and evening. Other cave networks including an old hospital can also be visited in the Buda hills.
There are many other sights to visit in Buda and sadly I could not see everything in 3 days. Strolling along the cobbled roads it is impossible to miss Hungarian National Gallery, which resides in the Royal palace. The building faces the river high on the hillside and is a symbol of the nation. The palace had been destroyed three times and rebuilt to its current neo-Classic style. If you get thirsty fill your water bottle up at the fountain next to neo-Gothic Mattias Church. The church was under construction during my visit in an effort to restore its original luster and is situated next to the Hilton Hotel and tourist information, although tourists can still visit the inside. Then of course my favorite is the remains of Buda Castle and the panoramic views from Fishermen’s Bastion, named so because it was the place of the medieval fish market. The neo-Romanesque bastion on Castle Hill is where many romantic couples come to view the superb sights of Pest; the impressive river front Parliament building, protruding twin towers of Nagy Zsinagóga, St. Stephen’s Basilica and the architectural delights along Andrássy Avenue that lay just across the Danube.
PEST
To explore Pest we decided to purchase a day pass for the metro, buses and trams. This was after our first wander to Pest had included a leisurely walk across the beautiful Chain Bridge connecting Buda and Pest. Locals and tourists alike had gathered on the bridge for a weekend event that consisted of Hungarian specialty food stands, live jazz and crafts. A slow and meandering afternoon on foot will not take you all over Pest, but it was a nice afternoon. Pest consists of the other two thirds of the city on the left bank of the river and includes Óbuda Island, Margaret Island and Csepel Island. Obviously there is just too much to explore in one, two or three days!
Using our pass for city transport we easily navigated through the city to view some of the must see sights such as a walk down Andrássy Avenue, viewing of the Opera House (out of Opera season), Continental Europe’s first sub-surface railway, a more then 125 year old underground still in use today and we rode on it! Then we headed to the most spectacular square in the capital, Heroes’ Square, before heading back towards the river to walk beside the largest building in the country called Parliament, but not before a little stroll through this ever enchanting city.
BUDAPEST
The city of Budapest is hard to forget once you have had a taste. There are numerous things to do for everyone although the prices have risen in recent years. In summer or winter, in the city or the environs, there is always something to occupy a world traveler or a local neighbor. Upon returning to the Budapest Keleti rail station on my departure day I was a little sad to leave after only 3 nights. There was so much more I wanted to see and do; all the thermal baths, Memento Park or even a historical tour to get a better grasp on the history here. I only hope to return to such a fascinating city. Budapest I’m in love with you!
USEFUL TIPS:
- Free Budapest Tours are available daily. Check out http://www.freebudapesttours.eu
- When purchasing rail tickets from the rail station it is best to arrive early. You will have to take a number and wait your turn. This can take up to 2.5 hours sometimes so save yourself the headache and think ahead.
- The Gyros at the rail station are excellent
For useful information on visitning Budapest, click here
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