Rothenburg ob der Tauber (Rothenburg above the Tauber) is one of the most photogenic cities I have ever laid eyes upon. A fortunate experience I had, to piece together one winding path to the next cobbled stone roadway that ran along half timbered homes, year-round Christmas shops, cafes and bakeries. Indeed Rothenberg is a popular tourist destination full of many of my fellow Americanos and Japanese tourists. The fairy tale village is worth a visit I assure even if its just for one day. I prefer to amble through local streets and wander the back alleys peering from an inconspicuous corner which takes more than one day. That is the way I like to discover places.
We spent three nights at the Campingplatz only a 10 minute walk from the historical town center. I felt this was ample enough for a few good wanders; one evening for a very expensive hot chocolate on the main square (powder mix, a little disappointing) and a memorable sundown that hung with a smirking moon. One morning dashing from one sight to the next including a visit to the very interesting Medieval Crime Museum (learn how people were charged for heinous crimes such as being a “witch” and publicly shamed for being henpecked by the wife). Torture machines and iron masks are on display as well as the office work policies of these early centuries. A visit to this museum is reasonably priced. Then we enjoyed one more evening in Rothenburg on the hunt for a good pub, but to no avail so we opted for a pils (good beer) at the local eis café. It was during this evening when the clock struck 11PM all the tourists gathered in the main square with their cameras to catch a glimpse of the magic performance. Ding Dong, I ran over to see what all the fuss was as the big clock continued its ballad, ding dong…two men (I think, as they had long hair) of carved wood I presume, opened a window on either side of the dial, their faces lit and turned from side to side and the onlookers smiled with glee and flashed cameras. I still think I must have missed something…but if I didn’t don’t worry if you miss the performance on the hour.
Well preserved, it has been said that Rothenburg was spared during World War II. During the war Nazi soldiers were stationed within the city, 306 homes were destroyed as 16 planes dropped bombs over the city. Several pubic buildings, nine watchtowers, and over 2,000 feet of the wall tumbled into rubble before the U.S. Secretary of War, John J McCloy ordered the army to use artillery instead of bombs to protect the historical nugget. The Germans themselves did not fight their enemies till the bitter end in order to protect a glimmer of German history. The medieval wall that surrounds the town today is full of grace and encompasses a historical masterpiece. You can freely walk along the wall ramparts to gauge an outstanding view of rooftops and alleys; names of people from all over the world are inscribed into the stone, leaving an honorable mention to those that have supported the up keep of the wall. Get lost in Rothenburg appealing as Disneyland for big kids that never want to grow up.
TRAVELERS TIP: The main train station in Rothenburg is directly across from a large shopping center which includes a supermarket. Do as you like on arrival, ditch your bags then get your grub or shop before hailing a taxi to the campground. A taxi ride from the rail station in Rothenburg to the Campingplaz costs about €9.
Watch the video below for a glimpse of Rothenburg
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