The city of Bath lies 100 miles west of London along the River Avon, tucked within the alluring Somerset countryside. The location of Bath has been an attraction for many centuries, not only for the surrounding beauty, but also as England’s only natural hot springs. The springs were created by a crack in the earth’s crust that has allowed rain water from the Mendip Hills to seep through the limestone. Geothermal energy then heats the water to between 64 °C (147.2 °F) and 96 °C (204.8 °F) before rising up under pressure to the surface once again. It’s not certain how the hot springs were originally discovered, although the legend assumes King Bladud was cured of his leprosy and for this reason he decided to make Bath his capitol. When the great Roman Empire spread to England the Romans found the village so appealing for the healing waters that they settled here naming the city, Aquae Sulis and mixed in with the local Britons.
The ancient city of Aquae Sulis is mostly hidden below the modern city of Bath and is still being discovered today at the Roman Bath Museum. At first glance the museum seems small compared to its popularity as one of Britain’s most famous sights and entrances are not cheap, but even for those on a budget the cost is well worth the visit. A headset with audio commentary provided by travel writer Bill Bryson is included in the entrance fee. The museum suggests that you spend about 90 minutes touring, although you are encouraged to take your time and visits could easily take up to 2 hours. Another great perk to your visit is a guided tour with a local museum guide lasting 30 minutes. The tours are included with your entrance and begin every hour on the hour and the guides are excellent!
The self guided tour begins with a visit to the upper level which is outdoors and overlooks the green pool below. The upper level, once shielded from the outdoor elements by an ornate canopy ceiling is now street level with the modern city of Bath. The imposing 15th century Bath Abbey stands proud just beyond the nearby square where pigeons mingle with foot traffic.
As you make your way down stairs you begin to realise there is much more to see and learn at the Roman Bath Museum than meets the eye. The Roman bath house was not only a place for leisure and communal affairs, but a place of worship to the Goddess Minerva. Romans came here to pray, worship and sacrifice animals. The ritual slab and temple altars can be seen in this section of the museum as well as the original steps to the temple, where many citizens stepped inside with deep thoughts of prayer. Messages to the goddess were excavated here on little tablets of metal, often bearing a curse. Some of the messages recovered from being thrown into the pools centuries ago have been deciphered. One I found particularly interesting as it asks whom ever stole Vilbia turn to liquid. Who was Vilbia, a child? A pet? These personal messages are insights to a time long ago were people had thrived from great engineering and still suffered from human tragedy. This was one of my favorite parts of the museum, as a chance to read the thought from an ordinary person 2,000 years before is quite extraordinary.
Once you reach the bottom of the museum you can walk alongside the main pool where Romans had once bathed together, speaking of their hopes desires and daily rituals. The water is a milky jade color that bathes upon honey colored limestone. It is enchanting to walk upon the stones that lie here and visit the adjoining rooms that made this truly a place of leisure for all whom came here. To this day the Roman method of filling the pool with ancient hot water and sending it’s overflow water to the River Avon is working just as it did 2,000 years ago. The beauty alone of such a place attracted me, but the engineering of such a place will continue to attract many more. Visitors are asked not to touch the water for safety reasons. This is partly due to the lead sheet lining the bottom of the pool to prevent water leaking away, but also the concern there may be infectious diseases in the pool. Every year it seems someone wants to be the last human to bathe in the ancient baths. Our guide explained that these bathers are usually young American school boys who think nobody has jumped in the pool for thousands of years. It’s comical to find out it’s probably only actually been about a year. Everyone was well behaved on my tour, but you can catch the 2007 bather on this video.
After the tour you are encouraged to visit the Pump Room. Here you can taste the healing water directly from the new spa water-hole bored in 1983. It provides a clean and safe supply of water. I do recommend a taste, but it won’t be refreshing. The water is warm, fizzy and strong in mineral flavor.
Photos taken by the river
After the Roman Bath Museum, unless you are staying overnight there is little more you can do in a day, and there is much more to see, especially if you are a fan of Jane Austen. Unfortunately I did not have the time or energy to see everything worth seeing. Bath is an excellent city for walking with many inviting streets full of shopping boutiques, cafes and sweet shops. Much of the architecture here is Georgian, built with the honey colored Bath Stone. Even new establishments are under strict building codes to keep the romantic appearance so many visitors have come to love. This city enjoys its mysterious splendor and attractions that invite so many visitors each year to Britain.
If you have a chance to stay in Bath and are looking for a hostel to book then check hostel availability here.
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Finding out Bill Bryson put his voice to the audio tour was a welcome surprise. I’m a big fan and have enjoyed reading several of his books over the years including Notes from a Small Island in which he talks about England. - Rich Meadows
What they say on Amazon about the book
After nearly two decades spent on British soil, Bill Bryson-bests elling author of The Mother Tongue and Made in America-decided to returnto the United States. (”I had recently read,” Bryson writes, “that 3.7 million Americans believed that they had been abducted by aliens at one time or another,so it was clear that my people needed me.”) But before departing, he set out ona grand farewell tour of the green and kindly island that had so long been his home.
Readers review on Amazon
I laughed out loud so many times I cried. He hits the countries mannerisms spot on. Having lived in the UK for many years I enjoyed all of his rants and raves. Sure, some of them may have been a little preachy or exagerated, but the point was to show the differences and he came through with flying colors (or should I say colours). His witty observations remind me of things we all think but never remember to put to pen. Instead, he sees it and writes about it and then delivers it in a poignant, yet loving way.
Most Brits that I know love his works and this book is no exception. In fact, a Brit recommended him to me as an example of a great writer writing about the UK.
For this and other interesting articles on England, click here
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